Beginners Guide

Adding plants to your home is a great way to get a fresh view and is a pastime that many absolutely love. One of the best plants that you can add to a home, both indoors or outdoors, is a cactus, which ranges vastly in size, shape, and even beauty. Of course, keeping your plants alive and well can become a challenge for many. This leads to the question many unfortunately have, which is:

How do you revive a dying cactus? Just like many other plants, cacti can run into several problems that lead to their early demise, but there are steps you can take to revive them, including:

1. Fixing root rot
2. Monitoring watering, temperature, and light
3. Replanting
4. Using new soil
5. Set up a feeding schedule

While some plants may be difficult to revive even with proper steps and diligent effort, most can be brought back to life with just some extra care. The remainder of this article will discuss several ways you can bring your dying cactus back to life.

10 Ways to Bring Back Your Dying Cactus

If your cactus is beginning to look less than beautiful, it is time to act and bring it back to life. Most plant owners put a lot of time and thought into their cacti, and it can be challenging to see them getting weaker. However, if you follow these easy steps and look for the common signs of distress, you have a great chance of saving your beloved plant.

1 – Look for and Fix Root Rot

One of the most common issues that cacti suffer from is root rot, which can be commonly diagnosed and luckily is not impossible to fix. If you notice that your cactus has discoloration, shakiness, or mushy roots, you are probably dealing with a case of root rot. You may also see that the plant is beginning to turn a brown or black color.

Cacti have a wide and shallow root system, which is great for maximizing water collection but can be a challenge if they are constricted within a smaller pot space. When you combine a small pot, too much water, compacted roots, and/or a poor drainage system, it is easy for root rot to develop. You may notice that the issue is primarily near the base of the cactus and not the root itself, but it can quickly take over the plant if not dealt with.

When you notice your plant has begun to suffer from root rot, you want to act quickly to get rid of the problem. If you recognize that it is a problem before it gets too extensive, you can handle the issue, and the plant should bounce back quickly. The basic ways to deal with root rot are:

• Remove the plant from the pot that it is in and check to see the full condition of the roots. Allow the plant to dry and heal out of the soil before repotting it in a clean container with a fresh potting medium. You will want to wear protective gloves when dealing with these pokey plants or wrap them in a newspaper to avoid the spines.
• Many cacti respond well to excising any diseased tissue that you may notice. This can be a problem if the rot has gone too far, so you will want to approach this with caution. However, you can take a sharp and sterile knife and dig out the damaged flesh. You will need to allow any holes to dry out before repotting; do not water the wound as it closes.
• If the roots are covered in rot, you will want to wash the roots well and replant in sterile soil. However, if the root rot is excessive, your plant may be too far gone to save. While some plants do recover, it can be a major challenge.
• Another option that you may want to take into consideration when it comes to your cactus is that you can grow a new plant with your dying plant’s cuttings. You can take cuttings from the plant and allow them to callus over for a few days before inserting it into the medium. The cutting will begin to root, and a new, healthy cactus will grow from your dying plant.

2 – Monitor Your Watering

If you begin to inspect your plant’s roots and you do not think the rot is the problem or if you notice the rot is not too severe, it could be an issue with watering the plant. Too much water can be just as damaging as not enough water when it comes to many types of cacti. Since these are desert plants, you want to use less water rather than more.

There are two issues that arise from watering frequency: you could either be underwatering or overwatering the plant, and you will want to do your best to remedy these problems.

Under-watering Your Cactus

While your cactus does not need an abundance of water, you do need to give it water regularly for proper growth to take place. You will notice that the plant begins to pucker or shrivel, maybe even becoming brown, dry, or callused from lack of water.

If you notice that your plant looks dehydrated, you can simply give it a good watering and continue watering it regularly, which should lead to a restored and growing plant.

Overwatering Your Plant

If you notice that your plant is becoming mushy, it may be because you are overwatering the plant, and this can even lead to root rot. The problem that many plants have is not the amount of water you are giving them but simply that they cannot drain the water off properly. You will want to start by lowering the amount of water you give the plant and how frequently you do so. If this does not help, seek other action.

Your plant may be holding too much water because of the pot that it is currently in as well. You will want to find a pot that is slightly larger than the cactus and repot it using a classic cactus mix. A clay pot is a great choice for this as it can wick away moisture quickly, and the fresh mix should help with the process.

3 – Offer Your Cactus a New Home

Your cactus may begin looking a little weak because it is time to get a new pot for the plant. A common reason that many growers need to repot their cactus is because it needs a larger growing space. Like most plants, a cactus will eventually outgrow the container that it is in, and the roots will become overly crowded and compacted.

If you are not providing your plant enough space to grow, it will begin to experience stunted growth, which can lead to death. If you notice that your plant has:

• Begun to fill the container
• Noticeably crowded roots (roots growing out of drainage holes or above soil levels)
• Water running right through the container
• Leaves that look unhealthy

It is time to repot. You will want to move your plant up to the next larger container size and allow the roots to spread.

When choosing your pot and repotting the plant, you will want to keep a few things in mind:

• Make sure that you always thoroughly disinfect the new pot with one-part bleach and one-part water. This cuts down on any bacteria that may be present and provides your plant with a safe new start.
• Find a pot that fits the size of your cactus. You do not want to pick a pot that is too small or the same size as your current pot; instead, pick one that is a little larger. This will give your plant room to grow and will still be stable enough to support it.
• If you do choose a pot that is too large, it can lead to even more issues. These pots have too much excess soil and can hold too much water, leading to the issues mentioned previously.

4 – Try a New Soil

Whether your original intentions were to repot your plant or not, changing soil can be a good way to revive your plant. If you are dealing with overwatering issues, small pots, or simply cannot find the true cause of your cactus’ issues, you may want to try new soil. Often, the reason why root rot or other similar issues arise is that there is a member of the water mold known as Phytophthora spp present.

This rot is common in soil that has adequate moisture, which can happen from overwatering or from lowered drainage. If you notice root rot, it is because these pathogens are in the current soil, so replacing the soil is key. Also, some potting mixes are too heavy and can hold more water than most cacti will need.

If you are repotting your plant, you will want to change to a lighter, more porous potting soil. Most classic cacti mixes work well for this and are readily available on the market today. These blends are often resistant to the pathogens that cause root rot and are great at draining or absorbing any excess water.

5 – Check for Mealybugs

Just like many other plant species, the cactus is no stranger to invasive bug species. Mealybugs, in particular, will suck the sap from the cactus plant, also known as phloem, which can lead to its demise. When they attack your plant, they will reduce its vigor. The bugs also excrete sticky honeydew and wax, reducing plant quality.

If you notice mealybugs present near your plant, you will want to act. Higher populations of these bugs can feed on the foliage or stem of the cactus and greatly inhibit growth. While most healthy plants can handle a small population of the bug, almost no plant can withstand large numbers.

Many have found that cacti are more vulnerable to the bugs because they have a year-round mild temperature, which encourages bug population growth. Also, if you have an indoor cactus that attracts mealybugs, they do not have any natural predators ridding them from the area. You will want to monitor the plant regularly for the bug and take action should you see them.

Of course, there are some chemical ways that you can get rid of the bugs, but there are also many natural remedies. Some simple DIY ways to lower the mealybug population are:

• Use a cotton swab with denatured alcohol that you can dab the bugs with, which will kill them. However, note that this treatment requires you to repeat it often until the bugs are all removed from the plant. Make sure to check every few weeks for new bugs.
• You can use a fumigating smoke cone regularly to cut down on bug numbers.
• You can spray the cactus with a few drops of dish soap that has been diluted into one cup of water. This is an easy way to kill the bugs effectively. This treatment may also need to be repeated often for full effectiveness.

6 – Set Up a Good Feeding Schedule

A big problem that many cactus owners run into is that their plant is lacking proper nutrition. While many cacti can grow and thrive without any fertilizing, adding this extra nutrition can help them get healthier and more colorful. This makes it extremely important for you to feed your cactus with a recommended fertilizer at a regular frequency.

Ideally, you will want to feed the plant every two weeks with a complete cactus fertilizer from spring through early fall. During the fall and winter months, feed the cactus around once a month. If you are not great at keeping up with a schedule, aim for once every few months or even once a year after the plant is growing properly.

You want to ensure that you are not over-fertilizing the plant, which can lead to just as many growth issues as lacking nutrition. If you notice that your cactus’ leaves are getting soft, feel like they are made of cloth, or are even turning brown, it can mean you are feeding the plant too much. You will want to make sure that you are always following the packaging instructions when feeding your plant. If you are ever questioning yourself, opt for feeding it less instead of more.

Of course, the amount of fertilizer used for feeding is just as important as the type of fertilizer that you offer the plant. Since cacti are not heavy feeders, you want to dilute any fertilizer that you offer them to half or even a quarter strength. Too much concentration of fertilizer may lead to root rot for your plant.

Some important things to remember when it comes to finding and using fertilizer are:

• Look for different ratio formulas to find one that fits your plant’s needs. You can use a blend of 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphorous, and 10% potassium. You can also use a lower, balanced solution that is a 5-10-5 ratio. The main thing you want to look out for is too much nitrogen, which can become a problem.
• Once you find a good fertilizer, you will want to mix as the bottle states. For example, if it says to mix one tablespoon fertilizer with one-gallon water, you will want closely follow this and even drop the fertilizer level down by ½ for healthy plants.
• If you are growing a cacti species that is more of a tropical breed, you will want to reduce the fertilizer even more at ¼ the ratio. A common tropical species is the Christmas Cactus.
• After feeding your cactus, you will want to move the plant into the sunlight. Removing them from the shade helps the plant utilize the fertilizer properly and enhances growth. Of course, limit the level of light and high temperatures as you would normally.

7 – Ensure You Are Offering Proper Light

If your plant is not receiving the proper amount of light, it can become floppy, pale, and shed its leaves. This lack of light is almost guaranteed to lead to the death of your plant. If your plant is growing, but you notice that the new growth is pale or more flimsy than normal, light could be your issue.

Of course, there are plenty of ways that you can offer your plant light if a lack of it is a problem. Some ways to increase light exposure for your plant are:

• Move it to a windowsill for temporary natural lighting.
• Move it closer to the light source, whether this is natural or artificial.
• Pick up a quality artificial light source if you live somewhere with increasingly darker days. LED bulbs or grow lights are relatively inexpensive and a great way to increase the light exposure for your plant.

While not enough light can be an issue for your cactus, having too much light can also be a major problem. If your plant is getting more light exposure than needed, it can lead to an issue called cactus corking. This is when a firm, brown, or even a tissue that resembles bark can develop just above the soil on a healthy plant.

This is part of the natural aging process of most plants and often starts at the base of the cactus, moving upward. If you notice that your cactus is turning brown from the top down, this is a clear sign that your plant has too much sun. Just like humans, your cactus can get sunburn with extended exposure.

If your plant is experiencing mild sunburn, it can begin as a whitish discoloration that is at the top of the plant or on the side that is facing the sun. Severe burns will appear similar to corking, with hard brown scabs on the surface. If your cactus has reached the point of having these scabs, it is permanently damaged.

To allow your plant time to heal from small burns or to stop it from getting more extensive damage, you will want to move it into the shade. While cacti grow in the desert, they are not accustomed to a large amount of sunlight, and many are used to never experiencing full sun all day. You will want to acclimate the plant to extended sun exposure slowly or simply limit the level of light that the plant gets daily.

8 – Monitor the Temperature

While most cacti do grow in warmer weather environments, this is not always the case, and they need regular temperature variations. One sign that they are having health issues is because they are not blooming properly. This may be due to the level of light that they are getting, or it could be due to the temperature at which you keep them.

Most cacti do need warm weather to survive, but it is important to remember that this ideal temperature should be between 65 degrees and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. However, during the cooler dormant months, you will want to lower these temperatures for proper growth. These dormant month temperatures should be closer to 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

For most cactus plants, flowers will only form when the plant is between 50 and 55 degrees. While many cacti have adapted to living in higher humidity locations, they still will die if the humid habitats are too extreme. Also, if the temperatures are too low, you can kill the plant by allowing it to get too cool.

9 – Induce Plant Rooting

Many of our methods of saving your cactus involve repotting the plant or removing it from its current home. This can be dramatic for the cactus, and without proper rooting can lead to death. If you notice that the roots of your plant have been damaged from rot or excessive watering, you need to encourage new rooting in its new soil.

As mentioned in our first step involving root rot, you may need to cut away damaged tissue from the plant. This can lower the amount of roots present and makes growing new roots critical for survival. Luckily, cacti are some of the best plants at regenerating, with a whole cactus plant easily grown from a small portion of healthy tissue.

To properly induce new rooting, you can do a few extra steps before planting the cactus:

• Let the cactus dry out for several days until thick scabs form on the cut sections.
• Place the remaining cactus section into a pot with cactus soil or some other porous, quality soil that you know works well.
• Bury the cactus about one inch deep. If the only remaining tissue is quite small, simply bury it about halfway. You want to ensure a large amount is in the dirt, and some remain above the soil.
• Avoid overwatering the cactus, even stopping watering entirely for the first week.
• Once the first week has passed, you will want to water the plant sparingly and look for new growth to appear.

10 – Simply Leave it Alone

This final step to saving your cactus may seem like a silly one, but too often, it is the most effective. There are times when your plant may look a little weak or simply off to you, but it truly does not need your saving. It may simply be going through its normal die off and shredding of its buds phase.

If your plant is looking a little less than perfect, examine the vital areas and look for any signs that may be alarming. Take a glance at the roots, check for any bugs, and evaluate your normal care routine. If everything seems to check out, simply give your cactus a little break and let it take care of itself.

If you are concerned, give your plant a good drink of water and leave it be. Put the cactus in an area that gets a fair amount of sunlight, like a windowsill, and give it time to grow. You will want to revisit it now and then to water it again and give it a little checkup.

The best thing to do once you have diagnosed and hopefully repaired your plant is to establish a good routine that you can follow from here on out. Some basics to keep in mind are:

• Stop overwatering your plant. Only supply water to the cactus every couple of weeks, depending on the size and species of plant that you have. Research your specific cactus type, as well as keep a record of which watering schedule leads to quality growth.
• Supply your plant with a proper amount of sunlight and offer them cooler, dormant months as needed. Make sure to check for signs of sun damage or too much light, adjusting the plant accordingly.
• Give your plant a break to allow it to heal and grow. Most of these saving techniques can be quite traumatic, and most plants do well just being left alone and cared for as needed.

Who doesn’t love growing things? Unfortunately, for many of us who don’t have a green thumb, it may be challenging to keep plants alive. However, a cactus is an example of one plant that is low-maintenance and is often recommended for new plant growers. But, even though cacti are easy to care for, you still need to remain mindful of how much water you give them, just like any other plant.

What are the signs that a cactus is overwatered? Five signs will let you know a cactus is receiving too much water:

1. Splitting
2. The skin of the cactus is mushy and puckered
3. Soil stays moist for too long
4. Cactus is starting to die in winter
5. Black/brown discoloration, especially at the base

Because cacti are very drought-tolerant, they need far less water than you think. The remainder of this article will discuss the reasons why these succulents do not need a lot of water, and signs that your plant may be getting too much water. With a few simple steps, you can still save your plant and get it to perk back up! 

Why does a cactus need limited water?

A cactus is part of the succulent plant family, which thrives on very little water by storing most of what they absorb beneath their skin. This is an adaptation for plants that evolved in low-water areas such as desserts or steppes. When they cannot rely on much water from the sky or the ground, they need to keep as much as possible to last them through the months-long dry seasons.

Cacti, specifically, are succulents that are covered in spines. These spines can be thick and large, small, and soft, and everywhere in between. They grow from areoles spaced out along the skin and serve several purposes, including helping cacti absorb every water droplet in receives.

Since the spines have 360 degrees of surface area, they can prevent water from running down off the plant and into the ground. Instead, they can direct the water to where it can be more easily absorbed by the cactus.

Another feature that helps keep the cactus hydrated is its waxy skin. This coating prevents moisture from leaving once it has been absorbed.

Cactus Roots

The cactus has a root system that is also specially designed for absorbing water. With a shallow and extensive root system, the plant doesn’t have to wait for the water to sink in too far before they get to it. This is especially important for desert-dwelling plants because rainfall is less likely to soak into the lower layers of dirt than it is to be evaporated by the hot sun and dry air.

Taproots aid in stabilizing larger columnar cacti. These also help the large cactus store even more water to support its massive size.

CO2 Intake

Another feature of cacti’s skin allows them to employ a unique breathing process. As we know, all plants intake carbon dioxide (CO2) and expel oxygen (O2). Typical plants do this during the daytime as part of photosynthesis, or the chemical process by which plants use light from the sun to synthesize foods from carbon dioxide and water.

Cacti do not breathe during the day because while this would allow CO2 to enter the plant, and would allow precious water to escape via transpiration. Instead, they use crassulacean acid metabolism(CAM), which means they reserve breathing for nighttime. To do this, the plant stores carbon dioxide in the form of malic acid until daylight. Then, it uses the CO2 for photosynthesis.

Because this entire process takes place during the late hours of the day when it is cooler and more humid, a cactus significantly reduces its water loss.

5 Signs Your Cactus Needs Less Water

As cacti are very slow growing, you may have invested a lot of time and effort into your little plant. Unfortunately, many of us kill our cacti with kindness, that is, by overwatering it.  This is the main culprit of a struggling house cactus. Fortunately, they are pretty good at letting you know when you are doing this.

So, pay attention to these signs, and you’ll be able to save your spiky friend!

1. Your cactus splits.
2. Your cactus is mushy and puckered.
3. Your soil stays moist for too long.
4. Your cactus is starting to die in winter.
5. Your cactus is turning black or brown, especially at the base.

1.     Your Cactus Splits

Maybe you forgot your cactus for a while, or you went on an extended vacation. When you came back, the soil looked super dry, so you dumped a bunch of water on it. The next thing you know, the cactus has a split in its skin.

This happens when a cactus takes up too much water at one time. Since these plants are highly efficient at absorbing and storing water, they pull in more water than other house plants. While they are designed to expand during times of rain, too much expansion can be harmful. This is what causes the split.

Also, when they have been dry for too long, the plant has likely contracted, specifically to survive its arid conditions. You’ll want to reintroduce water slowly to your plant to allow it to expand and grow at its own rate, especially if it’s been a long time since its last watering!

But don’t worry! Splitting does not cause long-term damage to the plant. Cacti have adapted to repair themselves from this kind of damage by creating a callus and sealing off the area. Just continue watering lightly, and your plant should grow as usual.

To learn more about cacti splitting, check out this YouTube video by Desert Plants of Avalon.

2.    Your Cactus is Mushy & Puckered

The problem with puckered succulent leaves or cacti is that it can be attributed to too little or too much water.

A healthy cactus will be plump and firm because of the water stored inside it. These stores are used as reserves for times when new water is scarce. As the cactus dries out, it will begin to tap into these reserves to survive. If it draws too much from them, the skin begins to pull inward as water volume is lost. This is a sign of too little water and usually happens at the bottom of the plant first.

Conversely, if the cactus absorbs too much water, then the storage space will run out. As water is stored in the cells of the plant, these cells will burst if too full, and the plant will literally fall apart from the inside out. This results in a puckered and mushy plant.

Therefore, you should make sure to pay attention to your watering habits to determine if you are under- or over-watering your cactus. To remedy this, ease into adding more water or decreasing watering time slowly so as not to shock the plant too much.

Do you think one of these things is happening to your plant? If you’re not sure what you should be looking for in terms of mush or puckering, check out the photos in this article from Pistils Nursery. There are good examples of what these signs usually look like.

3.    Your Soil Stays Moist for Too Long

While you may be tempted to use standard potting soil or compost for your new cactus, this should be avoided. Regular potting soil is designed to hold moisture close to the plant. This is because other houseplants are not as good at quickly absorbing water as cacti. 

Cacti are gluttons for water. That is, they soak up as much water as quickly as possible. This is because the soil in which these plants are found is naturally poor and arid. Any rainfall is not likely to stick around long—whether it drains by runoff or disappears by evaporation. This means the cactus needs to get it before it’s gone.

Therefore, if the soil stays wet around the roots for too long, your cactus will keep drinking it until it oversaturates itself; it doesn’t know when to stop! And worst yet, this oversaturation could lead to root rot and other problems.

To prevent this, you can change your potting medium to a specially-designed cactus soil that is coarse and low in nutrients. This soil tends to be equal parts:

• Sand
• Soil
• Gritty mixture (pebbles or pot shards)

Some mixes even contain:

• Peat
• Pumice
• Coir
• Pearlite
• Limestone
• Coconut fibers

The necessity of these additional ingredients really depends on the type of cactus you have, so read the instructions carefully. For example, peat is useful if you live in a very arid climate. It is designed to hold moisture, but if you allow it to get too dry, it will not rehydrate well.

You can buy a commercial cactus mix or make your own, but the benefit of this mixture is that it will drain faster and encourage evaporation. Once you’ve changed the potting medium, make sure to let it dry out thoroughly between watering. And don’t forget to empty the drainage saucer if there is one!

4.   Your Cactus is Starting to Die in the Winter

You may be thinking that your cactus is dying because you are currently in the coldest months of the year. While these plants do love warm temperatures and sun, since they are desert-dwellers, they are no stranger to chilly nights. So, if you keep your cactus indoors and it’s not directly near a cold window, it’s unlikely that the winter weather is causing it to die.

As with all plants, cacti go semi-dormant or dormant in the winter. Their growth slows considerably, and their soil generally does not dry out as fast. This means they generally need less water than in the summer months. Therefore, if you have kept up the same watering schedule even as the days grow shorter, you may be watering your cactus too often.

All plants, in general, need less water over the winter, and cacti are no exception. While you may water your cactus once a week in the summer (or more if you give it outside time in the hot sun), that may be too much for the winter. Try to simulate the cactus’s natural habitat.

Most plant experts recommend only watering the cactus two or three times during the entire winter season. And when you do, make sure to follow tip number one above and not give it too much water at one time!

5.    Your Cactus is Turning Black or Brown

Discoloration can also be another sign of either under- or over-watering. It is essential to know the difference between different shades and textures that may appear as a result of how you water your cactus.

For a cactus that is too dry, it may be turning brown and crispy at the tips. These look like callouses or sunburns. If this is your cactus’ symptom, try giving it more water and over time, the plant will heal its damage. But make sure the soil is fully draining!

On the other hand, if the leaves or stems are turning black or dark brown, that could be a sign of root rot because of overwatering. These dark spots usually occur at the bottom of the plant or on the lower leaves/appendages. They are soggy and can even be oozing or leaky. This means that your plant has so much water that it’s now collected in the roots.

If you suspect this is the case, gently pull your succulent out of its pot and examine the root base.  If the root network is expansive and looks healthy, then your plant may survive. Repot it in fresh, dry soil and decrease your watering.

If the roots look dead or blackened, then your succulent is in trouble. It is most likely that you will need to try to salvage its healthier sections in order to keep it growing well.

Not sure if your cactus is experiencing root rot or dryness? Check the photo examples from this article on Pistils Nursery to compare your plant to.

Saving Your Cactus from Overwatering

So, what if you have changed the potting medium and readjusted your watering routine, but your cactus still seems sad, and you notice continued mushy spots or dark patches? This may mean your cactus has developed some type of rot, which is slowly spreading through the rest of the plant. Plants cannot heal already rotted flesh, so if you notice these spots, it is best to remove them if at all possible.

Removing Rot from the Top

If the damage is at the top of your cactus, you have a better chance of saving it. Take a sharp, clean knife and dig out the damaged tissue gently. Allow the hole to dry out and heal over. Make sure not to water the plant from above to prevent moisture and bacteria from getting into the wound.

If you give it time, the plant should callous over, and while now looking a little scrappier, it should continue to grow and get healthier!

Removing Rot from the Roots

If you suspect root rot, this is a more difficult problem to tackle. It is possible to save the plant, but it will take extra care and even a little luck.

• Determine if any healthy roots are left. First, remove the plant from its soil and inspect the roots. If all of them are blackened, limp, or broken off, your plant may not survive. However, if any are still viable, you may try to replant it.
• Separate the dead tissue. Remove any infected tissue and all surrounding soil from the cactus.
• Wash the roots thoroughly. This will remove any remaining diseased soil or rot from around the roots.
• Repot in sterile soil. Plant the cactus in a fresh batch of potting medium, ensuring that its amount and type is suitable for your cactus. This is also an excellent time to check your pot size, making sure it’s not too large or too small.

Root a Cutting

If you determine that the roots of your cactus are no longer viable, you may still be able to root a cutting. Depending on the plant, if there is a healthy part still left, you can cut that piece off from the rest and help it grow new roots.

First, allow the cutting to callous over for a couple of days before placing it in the soil. When planting, make sure to bury it at least an inch into the medium so it can begin to root. While this process may take weeks, you should see a brand-new, healthy baby cactus that is quite similar to the parent plant!

Conclusion

While over-watering can be a death sentence for your little cactus, it doesn’t have to be.  Paying attention to the signs above, and catching them early enough, will allow you to save your succulent just in time. If you follow these simple tips, you and your new houseplant can celebrate many great years together!

The Christmas cactus, hailing from Brazil, is a beautiful plant that blooms a light red and white flower. Also known as the Schlumbergera, its beautiful color scheme makes it the perfect natural addition to your holiday season decorations. However, these plants need to be purchased and cared for long before Christmas Eve.

What are the most important things to remember when caring for your Christmas cactus?

• Cooler temperatures
• Humidity is good, but too much watering is bad
• Balance daylight and nighttime
• Special fertilizer only used at the right time
• Prune yearly
• Monitor for and remove insects
• Displaying area is different from growing area

Let’s explain those steps in more detail and then discuss your additional options.

Steps to Prepare Your Christmas Cactus for the Holiday Season

Just keep in mind as you go through these points that a plant is a living thing, not a product out of a factory. As such, do not be afraid to tinker with these instructions ever so slightly. Christmas cacti especially are used to a little disruption. Use your judgement and a little tender loving care to keep your plant happy and satisfied.

Cooler Temperatures

The Christmas cactus is native to the jungles in Brazil, where it grows adjacent to larger trees and under their canopies. As such, they like average temperatures ranging from 65 degrees to 75 degrees. They can be outside in the summer, but keep them under some sort of balcony roof or awning to avoid direct sunlight. Prolonged sunlight can burn them, causing a yellowing color and preventing bloom later in the year.

To time a proper bloom exactly right, your Christmas cactus will need to be placed in cooler temperatures for about 12 hours a day starting in late September to early October. That way they will start to bloom 8 to 10 weeks later in early December. If you live in a temperate climate, leaving your plant outside should work just fine as long as you monitor weather fluctuations. Too cold and it will develop frost, which will kill the plant.

On the other hand, if a hot day pops up in October, bring it inside into the air conditioning. In general, 55 to 60 degrees should do the trick. If you live in a desert or tropical climate, place your Christmas cactus in your basement or at least a closed off closet during this time.

Humidity vs Watering

Here is where it becomes tricky. The Christmas cactus is technically not a cactus, as it does not grow in the desert. Being from the tropics, this plant likes it humid. However, liking humidity does not mean that it likes being watered all the time. In fact, the Christmas cactus name in derived from the fact that it rarely likes to actually be watered. If this plant were a guy at a Florida resort in July, he would sit under an umbrella outside by the pool all day but never jump in the water.

How do you keep something humid without watering it? It is easier than you might think. If you already live in a humid climate, putting the plant outside is obviously the best thing you can do. If not, follow these steps:

1. Find a small, shallow tray just larger than the bottom of cactus’s pot. A plate is too shallow, but something like a frisbee or garden stone with ridges will do fine.
2. Fill it up with small stones, enough so that they sit just above the ridge.
3. Fill that tray with water.
4. Place the Christmas cactus on top of the rocks.

By using this method, you are not watering the plant. However, the water in the tray will very slowly evaporate through the pot and around it past the leaves, keeping the plant reasonably humid. Check on the water every so often and fill up the tray again as necessary.

That being said, it is not like a Christmas cactus never wants water. Check on it once a week to see if there is any significant drying out in the soil or yellowing in the leaves. It will generally need water once every 1 to three weeks. Still a lot less often then your common florist bouquet.

It is also important to adjust watering patterns depending on the season. Once a week or so is great in the Spring and Summer. But the Christmas cactus will only bloom if it feels like it needs to. Frankly, if it feels like it is dying needs to reproduce. In the fall, you definitely want to dial it back to 2 or 3 weeks.

Daylight and Nighttime

Outside of blooming preparation, a Christmas cactus’s relationship with sunlight is mostly average. They can sit outside or in the windowsill (temperature permitting). Again, just avoid too much direct sunlight. If you need to choose though, err on the side of too much sunlight over not enough.

Blooming preparation, starting in September, is when it becomes more complicated. Along with cooler temperatures, the Christmas cactus also needs 12 to 14 hours a day of complete darkness. The plant will attempt to look for more sunlight somewhere, hence it will start to bloom. Make sure it receives a healthy amount of sunlight during the day, and then at night move it into complete darkness. Artificial light still counts as light, unfortunately. Try one of these options to make sure it gets adequate amount of “sleep”:

• Put it in your basement
• Place it delicately in a closed closet or room by itself
• If it is too big to move from outside, put a tarp or thick sheet completely over the top of it so that all leaves are covered.
• Later in the season, when nighttime lasts a lot longer, simply placing it in your backyard (away from car lights and such) works well. Again, if you are keeping it outside, beware of frost.

Fertilizer

We already know how picky the Christmas cactus is with water. What about fertilizer? That is quite a different story. As long as it is used correctly, fertilizer is a beneficial and necessary ingredient to help your plant do well. But keep it out of the bloom season, as this could be detrimental by interfering with the timing of that process.

During the spring and summer, it is recommended to add fertilizer to your Christmas cactus about once a month. This time of the year is the growing season, so any help is beneficial. In fact, fertilizer will even help you better align your plant’s annual overall rhythm of growth and bloom. Use one with a high rating on its middle number, like 8. Try one of these fertilizers:

• Tiger Bloom: This simply works for a fair price and is recommended by top horticulturists. Particularly useful in promoting budding in the Fall
• Miracle-Gro: You probably already know Miracle-Gro from your lawn fertilizer. Well they specialize in houseplants too. It is not specialized to cacti specifically, but it works.
• Jacks Classic: Cheaper than the rest but will still keep those leaves looking green and the rest of the plant strong throughout the year.

Pruning

You really do not need to be cutting back your Christmas cactus, even during all-out growth season. This could be even worse during budding season because you will be losing tiny buds that are still not completely visible. Remember, this plant is used to growing in treacherous conditions. It is used to finding whatever space it needs to survive. Not pruning will never affect the health of your plant.

However, Christmas cacti can live up to 30 years, meaning they will eventually become too large. Or they may even start growing uneven or otherwise just become unsightly in some way. If you need to prune your Christmas cactus, it is rather easy: just cut on the skinny piece in between two leaf segments. The plant practically marks it for you.

You can cut up to one third off of your Christmas cactus without disturbing its health or growth rate. Also, do not overdo it: you should only be pruning it roughly once a year. After you prune, save a handful of leaf segments! More on that later.

Watch for Bugs

Let’s face it. After everything you have read so far, especially concerning darkness and lack of watering, it sure is tempting to just put your Christmas cactus in your spare bedroom and shut the door. See you in two weeks. Not a good idea. You should at least go in once a day and check on your plant. It could need more water in its humidity tray. But most importantly, you also need to watch for bugs.

Insects could be infesting their way inside the pot without you even noticing. If this happens, your dream of a beautiful Christmas cactus adorning your living room by the fireplace could die in September. Look out for:

• Root mealybugs
• Flower thrips
• Fungus gnats

If you see any of these, prune off the infected area and discard it so it hopefully does not infect the rest of the plant. Then use an insecticide that is safe on plants. Be sure to avoid overwatering because that is usually the main attractor of bugs. Also keep your Christmas cactus in a thinner, breathable pot so it dries faster.

Display Area

So far, we have almost exclusively discussed placing your Christmas cactus in cold dark rooms or on balconies. The problem is we do not usually roast marshmallows and open presents in a closet. You are obviously going to have to move your plant into a prominent spot in your living room. During the holiday season, it is time for this beautiful plant to shine. Here are some tips on displaying your Christmas cactus:

• Unlike its holiday plant colleague, the poinsettia, it is not poisonous to cats and dogs. No worries there.
• Keep it up on an end table though so your pets do not poke at its semi sharp edges. You do not want the kids pulling apart something that took a year to bloom either.
• If there is less sunshine in your living room, just try to keep it as close to the window as you can. Do not forget that more darkness is better this time of year anyway.
• Avoid the fireplace. Smoke is bad for the plant. And obviously fire is not great either.

Propagating

If your Christmas cactus is in its twenties and has begun to see better days, it might be time to get a new one. Luckily for you, there is no need to buy a new one because you can make one yourself! Grab those leaf segments from before and follow these steps:

1. Leave the segments out on a dry surface for a few days so that they dry and the tips heal
2. Assemble a new pot (6 inches in diameter is fine for a now) filled with soil mix. This soil is purposely coarse to allow for plenty of aeration. Here is a list of our favorite and recommended soil mix (Here).
3. Place three or four leaves in the soil for their old cut stems down. They should all be buried about halfway. Keep a handful to the side in case the leaves in the pot do not take.
4. Follow normal care. Pay extra attention to humidity.
5. In about two weeks, growth will occur. Together they will have a brand-new root system.

Where to Buy Your Christmas Cactus

If you do not have a Christmas cactus at all and do not have a way of acquiring a few leaves, you will need to buy one. Before you do, buyer beware: a lot of “holiday cacti” are not actually Christmas cacti. Plenty of companies try to sell the Thanksgiving cactus, which looks similar and is a lot easier to grow, and pretend it is a Christmas cactus. Further troubling is that some people try to sell imitation plants in the place of all holiday cacti! Make sure you are buying from a reputable source like one of the following.

Amazon

We have come a long way from buying our favorite books on Amazon. Believe it or not, Amazon has a huge selection of live plants. The Christmas cactus is no exception. There are a few varieties to choose from, all of which are typically fulfilled locally. If they cannot be fulfilled locally, they are shipped with careful climate-controlled means. Be careful though, as that will probably increase shipping charges. Here are a few ideas:

• Hirt’s Gardens– $15 is not bad for a plant ready to go and already in a 4 inch pot
• American Plant Exchange– This is really a larger co-op network of sellers who bid together for simplified pricing. Comes in a larger pot.
• JM Bamboo– Similar to the Hirt’s Gardens one but better quality and bigger price

Your Hardware Store

You may know your local hardware store as just a good place to buy your favorite gardening tools. While that is true, plenty of them have branched out into floral selections as well. Home Depot and Lowes in particular have vary large gardening sections, often located outdoors, which feature everything you will need to start growing your plant. And of course, the plant itself. Check in to your local store usually around August or September, when the holiday decorations start moving in, and that will typically be when they will have the Christmas cactus in stock. That would be the perfect time to pick it up for your first year, as that is the start of blooming season.

Local Florist

The most convenient option for many of us is just going to our local florist. Even though they will have a much larger flower selection, they still might not have the Christmas cactus in stock before September. Many people believe certain things should be bought in person, not online, so you can examine quality before you buy. And when it comes to quality, nothing beats buying from your local florist and bringing the plant home that same day.

Cacti for Other Holidays

There are a couple cacti out there for other holidays besides Christmas. There is the Thanksgiving cactus, as previously mentioned, and also the Easter cactus. They are in the family as the Christmas cactus, but have slightly different properties and care practices. Let’s go through those in case you are thinking of keeping the cactus trend going year-round. It is also a good idea to know these things, so you are not bamboozled on your next Christmas cactus purchase.

Thanksgiving

The Thanksgiving cactus is often used as an imitation of Christmas cactus. It is similar in color and appearance. It also is more abundant and therefore cheaper to sell at a markup. However, you will be able to tell the difference.

The Thanksgiving cactus has leaves that are pink and white, not red and white. If you are buying the plant when it has already budded, that will be a dead giveaway. If not, take a look at the leaves. The Thanksgiving cactus leaf has hooked edges, almost like lobster claws. A Christmas cactus should have smaller and smoother edges.

In addition, pay careful attention to the directions. When they tell you to start the budding process in late July or early August, you will know something is up. These plants are designed to blossom a month before the Christmas cactus, in time for Thanksgiving. So naturally they need to start the budding process a month earlier.

Easter

The Easter cactus is a lot different. Although it comes from a similar area in brazil, it is prone to more of a forest environment than a nature one. Also, with its bright pink or even orange colors, there is no way you would get it confused with a Christmas cactus.

As the name suggests, the growth cycle is radically different too, which allows it to bloom in the Spring right around Easter. Caretaking for this plant is similar to the Christmas cactus, just moved later in the year. You will want to start the blooming period back in November if you can, since it might be too cold and too dark during the deep winter. Not enough sunlight at all means more time to get to full bloom. Watering and moisture stay the same. It should also go without saying that the Easter cactus should not be outside during the winter. You can bring outside in the early Spring, weather permitting.

Diseases and How to Avoid Them

Like humans, plants can also become ill. The Christmas cactus, unfortunately, is no exception. The diseases that commonly affect this plant are:

1. Basal Stem Rot
2. Botrytis Blight
3. Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus

1. Basal Stem Rot

Basal stem rot occurs when fungus builds up around the roots. This may not be outwardly noticeable since you will not see any fungus on the plant or the pot. However, the plant will start to grow slower than it should. If you have other Christmas cacti, it will clearly be smaller than them. It will also start to miss important benchmarks. Even, most critically, the start of blooming season.

How does this happen? Too much water. If you do not overwater, you do not have to worry about basal stem rot. But if it is already happening, you may need to consult an expert.

2. Botrytis Blight

On the other hand, Botrytis Blight is completely noticeable on your Christmas cactus. At first the leaves and flowers will wilt. Then a fuzzy blue fungus will grow. To prevent this, make sure you do not go overboard on the humidity. Keep a close eye on your cactus. If this begins to happen, immediately cut off any infected leaves.

3. Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus

Like we mentioned before, you should be routinely inspecting for insects on or in your Christmas cactus. Insects, after all, do more than eat your plant. They also carry disease! One infection carried by insects that is perhaps the most detrimental to plants is called Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. The symptoms include:

• Leaves turning purple or off-color
• Wilting
• Stunted growth
• Spots on both the leaves and the flowers

Unfortunately, there is no easy cure to Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. Insecticide will not help because the damage is already done. Not to mention the virus usually dives deep into buds and inside stems. The best you can do is cut off the infected area and hope enough of the virus is removed.

4. Phytophthora Root Rot

Phytophthora Root Rot has symptoms very similar to the other diseases. That makes it really hard to diagnose to the untrained eye. Leaves turning yellow will be quite common. However, before you decide to start cutting off stems, cut into the them just a little bit. Take a look at the color. Reddish brown discoloration in the stem is the biggest indicator that the problem in your Christmas cactus is down below in the roots, not the leaves and stems.

Luckily, this problem is quite fixable. It usually occurs from the water not being able to drain properly. Try switching to a thinner pot that allows the soil and roots to dry out faster.

Other Holiday Plants

The Christmas cactus is not the only plant for the holidays. Consider purchases one of the following to fill out the décor of your holiday living room.

Poinsettia

The poinsettia is the most famous of all Christmas plants with its appropriately green and red colors. Buy a couple of these and place them next to your Christmas cactus for an inspired look. Just make sure you keep them off the floor, as they are dangerous to eat for your dog or cat.

Like the Christmas cactus, take care not to over water your poinsettias either. Also, if you want to keep it for next year, place it in your windowsill and water only occasionally. Pruning can be done liberally, and fertilizer can be given every two weeks.

Cyclamen

The cyclamen has a similar green and red color scheme. However, the bud is decidedly rounder and dainty, for a softer feel. It can also bloom for an impressive eight weeks, which well comfortably take you from right after Thanksgiving through New Year’s Day, if you time it right. They also handle colder temperatures a lot better. Do not put them outside on a frigid day, but you can leave a cyclamen on your balcony well into early December.

Amaryllis

The Amaryllis is more of a flower than a full plant, but it is pretty nonetheless. These come in all red or all white. There are sometimes ones that produce both color flowers, made by planting both in the same pot of soil. The Amaryllis nicely fills up any leftover space on your holiday display and looks good adjacent to your Christmas cactus.

If you enjoyed the show, you do not have to toss this flower out after New Year’s. Although it may look dead, you can always store the bulb in a cool dark place and replant it next year.

If you are looking for a low-maintenance plant that you can keep inside or outside of your home, a cactus is a great option. These plants are easy to care for and require little expertise on your part to keep them growing and thriving. More importantly, they are resilient should they begin to weaken; you can usually bring them back with a little TLC and making sure you’re watering them correctly.

How do you know your cactus needs more water? Water, both too much and not enough, can be a massive problem with your plant. Some signs of underwatering are:

1. Different, dryer texture
2. Puckering
3. Visual changes
4. Watering that’s not adjusted according to the season
5. Improper potting mix

In this article, we will discuss these signs that your cactus needs more water in detail and what you can do to remedy this before it is too late. Unfortunately, many cactus owners believe since the plants are from dryer environments, they can go without water for an extended period. However, your cactus still needs to be watered regularly.

The Importance of Watering Your Cactus

Before we jump into the signs that a cactus is underwatered, let’s talk about the importance of watering your plant regularly regarding its health. The main thing that sets cacti and similar succulents apart from other plants is their ability to store water for a relatively long period. Cacti plants have specialized cells in their stem that help them hold onto water when there is excess available.

These cells are designed to soak up water during downpours while in the desert but can also be beneficial for plants even in your home. When you water your plant, the cells will absorb water until every cell is fully hydrated. As time progresses, the plant will use water stored in the cells, which will reduce the hydrostatic pressure inside the plant.

If your plant’s water reservoir has not been exhausted, the cactus will continue to prefer dry and airy soil. However, should the plant run out of water in its cells, this can turn into an issue. Ideally, you will offer it more water when it begins to run low internally, but this is not always the case. Should the plant go for an extended period without you replenishing the water, it can be detrimental to its health.

How to Tell if Your Cactus Needs More Water

Luckily, if you are new to the cactus world, it can be easy to tell if your cactus needs more water. If, at any point, your plant begins to look a little off to you or even seems to be dying, you can almost guarantee there is something off with it internally. While underwatering may not always be the case, it is a common issue.

If you cannot remember the last time that you watered your plant, or you do not have a good water schedule in place, the problem could easily be a lack of watering. Some of the easiest signs to spot or things to look for when it comes to your plant are:

1 – The Feel of Your Plant

It may seem a little less than intelligent for you to squeeze your cactus to see how it feels, but the physical touch of the plant will alert you to the first signs of water issues. When your cactus has been freshly watered, it will be in what is called a “hard body stage.” Essentially this means that when it is fully hydrated, it should feel a little firmer or harder.

If you know that your plant has been watered recently, you can wear some protective gloves and give it a gentle squeeze to see how this feels. If you notice that the plant has started to soften due to a loss of water pressure, you can touch it to see the difference in physical feel. You should also note that a well-hydrated plant springs back quickly when squeezed, while a dry plant will not spring back as quickly, like a dehydrated human.

If you notice that your cactus feels excessively soft in some areas, this could be a sign of deeper problems. If your plant is softening unevenly and is very weak or even discolored in some spots, this is a sign of root rot. This is a deeper problem that you will want to address and deal with, as it can be fatal to the plant.

2 – Dehydrated Plants Will Begin to Pucker

Most cacti that have not been appropriately watered will begin to pucker, and this is an easy sign to look for. Healthy cactus plants will look plump and fleshy due to their stored water. However, if water is not offered to them at regular intervals, it will cause the flesh to shrivel and pucker.

You will often see that the puckering begins in the lower areas and then works its way up the plant. Ideally, you will supply the plant with enough water to bounce back before the entire plant has shriveled and puckered. In addition to the shriveling, you may also notice a small amount of discoloration such as a brown, dry, or calloused flesh.

Usually, once you notice this puckering, you can give your plant a drink of water, and they will be fine. Of course, you always want your cactus to be in a well-drained soil designed for succulents so that they do not become overwatered. If you catch them quickly enough, you will find that they should bounce back like new in no time.

3 – Look for Other Visual Changes

When a cactus is adequately hydrated and growing properly, it will stand at its full height and form. This is the classic cactus shape that you are used to seeing and is a clear sign of health. However, when there is a lack of water, you will be able to note some physical changes that are easy to see and diagnose.

Some cactus plants will literally fold in half when they are underwatered but will spring back to life when appropriately watered and hydrostatic pressure returns. Of course, any wrinkly skin, drooping leaves, sagging, or an overall change in shape can mean there is low moisture. Some other common visual changes you should note are:

• The skin will become dry when there is a lack of moisture, or all water reservoirs are used.
• They can become discolored due to insufficient water. They can turn a pale color or even become brown when dehydrated.
• The weight of the pot they are in can feel lighter than when they are well watered.
• The plant can start wilting, and the leaves will begin to droop.
• The plant will begin to wither when all the water is used.

While seeing your plant go through these physical changes can be difficult to see, it is often easy to restore them to their normal health. You will want to give your plant a thorough watering when you notice any of these signs. You should see that they revert to a healthy appearance within a day or two.

4 – Consider the Season

One thing that many forget when it comes to their cactus is that the difference in seasons can lead to a difference in water needs. Just like in the wild, your plant will need a change in watering patterns depending on the seasons. If your plant begins to look a little weak, you will want to pay attention to the season and make differences in your watering schedule accordingly.

Some basics to keep in mind when it comes to seasonal watering are:

• Fall – Your fall months will differ slightly depending on where you live, and you will want to adjust accordingly. If you live in a relatively warm climate during the fall, above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, you will want to water once weekly. If you live in an environment with a colder fall, watering can be a little more sparing.
• Winter – During winter, your cactus will just need an occasional watering because most are dormant during this period. They often stop growing with a drop in temperatures and will not need to be watered as regularly.  A typical watering pattern during these dormant months is once a month.
• Spring – The spring showers can help serve as a guide towards your watering schedule. You will want to water the plants weekly to help wake them up from their dormant winter state. They will need a little extra water to survive and thrive during this period.
• Summer – The summer months are the most critical for water as the hot temperatures tend to dry out the soil. If you have your cactus near an overly sunny window, you may need to water it even more often as they will dry out more quickly. You will want to physically check the soil to see if it feels too dry or wet, watering about two to three times a week.

5 – Check the Potting Mix

One of the easiest ways to determine that your cactus needs water is to check the soil that it is in and water accordingly. A rule of thumb that most cactus owners follow is if the soil is completely dried out, the plant needs proper watering. However, you need to learn more about checking the pot for dryness and how to do so.

Some easy ways to check the potting soil of your cactus for dryness and to see if watering is needed are:

• Use a stick or skewer to gently push into the potting mix, making sure you reach the bottom of the pot. Leave the stick in place for a few seconds before removing it. If it looks of feels damp, the plant is well watered, and no more water should be needed. If the stick comes out dry, adding water is best.
• Poking your finger into one of the drainage holes is another good indicator. You will want to poke the bottom of the container and feel for any moisture. If the area feels dry, add water and, if not, leave the plant alone.
• You can use your finger to poke into the topsoil and feel for moisture as well. Of course, you want to be careful of any spines that may be present in the lower areas of the plant. If the soil feels damp and clings to your finger, the plant should not need watering.

Of course, you always want to pick a potting mix that works well for your cactus and is fast draining. There are many soils out there that are explicitly designed for cacti and succulents, making them the best choice for your plant. You always want to ensure that the soil is dry before adding more water to the pot.

If you have several cacti plants, you may want a more proper way of checking the soil to ensure that it is ready for watering. There are tools called moisture meters that can check the level of dryness in mixes. These devices record the soil moisture content, and you will be able to tell when watering is needed, but it often takes a more expensive meter to get an accurate reading.

Design a Good Watering Schedule

The best way to ensure that your plant is not under-watered is to establish a good watering schedule from the start. How much water your plant needs depends on the type of cactus that you are growing as no two cacti species are the same. To truly take care of your plant, you will want to do more in-depth research into the specific cactus that you have and how it should be cared for. Some things to consider are:

• The type of plant you have
• The average growing season for your plant
• The typical temperature, soil, and conditions they naturally grow in
• The conditions you are currently growing your plant in

If you do not know the type of cactus you have purchased, you can look on the container if it is still in the original. Most containers will have the plant species listed somewhere on the outside. You can also do a quick Google search of common household cacti and find which one most resembles your own.

If all else fails, you can take your plant or a photo of the plant to a local nursery for help. If you have owned the plant for a while, you may be able to take it to the original place of purchase to learn more about the type you purchased. You can even ask for expert advice on caring for the plant.

General Guidelines for Watering Your Cactus

While each cactus is different, there are some similarities between the different types that you can keep in mind. A basic guideline that you can follow when it comes to watering your plant are:

• As mentioned, always let the cactus’ soil dry out between watering. The top couple of inches of soil should be thoroughly dried out. You can follow the previously mentioned methods to see if the soil is adequately dry.
• Keep the seasons in mind! Do not forget the seasonal watering changes previously discussed as plants need more water during the hot season and less during the dormant months. During the summer months, water at least once a week!
• If your plants are indoors, they will need more water than cactus plants that have been placed outdoors.
• Many plants that rest in a semi-dormant state during colder months need much less water or even none. If you have outdoor plants, they may need no extra watering during this phase. You will want to monitor the plant’s appearance for signs of watering needs.
• Always watch for the signs that we discussed and give the plant a thorough watering should you notice any puckering, wilting, bending, deflation, or color changes. Make sure to water them effectively and do not overwater the plant. Too much water can be just as bad as too little, if not worse.
• If you live in an area that has hard water, you may want to repot your plant regularly, and this can become an issue. Hard water can lead to a build-up of salt.
• Always ensure that your cactus’ pot is well-drained so that water does not build up. Improper drainage can cause the plant to get waterlogged and lead to root rot.

Ensure You Are Watering Your Plant Correctly

Now that you have a better idea of how often you should water your plant and what to look for when a plant is under-watered, you will want to ensure that you are watering it correctly. A good method to stick to for the majority of the year is to water your cactus once a week. However, you want to make sure that you are also watering your plant correctly.

The basic steps to watering your cactus are:

1. You want to always provide a good amount of moisture without leaving too much water in the soil. Always soak the roots, but not so much that can lead to root rot.
2. When it is time to water your plant, you will want to do so until the soil is saturated. A good sign of saturation is when water slowly drips out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
3. If you are watering an outdoor cactus, you will want to check the ground around the plant to ensure the soil is moist. You can also use a water gauge to ensure the soil is moist enough.

Some argue that watering your cactus from above is not the best option though it may be the easiest. When you use this method, the water will travel down the edge of the soil and to the bottom, which does not allow excess to get absorbed. This is why many plants develop rot at the soil line.

If you have the available amount of space and time, a great option is to set the cactus pot in a pan of water so the plant can pull water in from the bottom rather than the top. This allows the soil in the pot to absorb as much water as possible. This also boosts the plant’s absorption rate, and the moisture will move up to the surface of the pot. After some time, you will want to take the container out of the water pan and let it drain.