5 Common Mistakes In Cactus Care

Cacti are popular plants to grow at home (both indoors and outdoors) because they require very little maintenance and are among the coolest looking plant varieties. Because of their unique needs compared to most plants you keep in a garden, there are specific guidelines that need to be followed for care. Many misinformed care strategies may hurt the plants.

These are five common mistakes in cactus care:

  1. Caring for all cacti the same way
  2. Overwatering and Underwatering
  3. Using small containers and bad soil conditions
  4. Offering too little sunlight or scorching them
  5. Using pesticides incorrectly

Many things in life need to be done in moderation. This is particularly true when caring for cacti as our common mistakes show that too much or too little of something can be equally damaging to the plant. We will cover the common mistakes that arise in cactus care and what you should be doing to make sure that your cacti are appropriately cared for.

Common Mistakes in Cactus Care

Cacti can be very easy to care for when done so correctly, but it can also be challenging as they are very different from plants that we are familiar with. They are native to the Western Hemisphere, often being found in arid environments where drought is frequent. However, there is variation in the environments they are found in, with some being drier and more intense than others.

Sunburned golden barrel cactus.
A common misconception is that cacti should be left in full sun all day since they are naturally in the desert.

Cacti have become a popular plant species to grow and take care of at home, providing that care mimics their growth and survival in the wild. The following are five common mistakes in cactus care and how you can modify these mistakes to care for your cactus plants best.

1. Caring for All Cacti the Same Way

Cacti are not only unique from other plants, but they are incredibly unique among each other. There are upwards of 2,000 species found throughout North and South America, all in varying weather and living conditions. Because they are naturally found in different climates, soil conditions, and environments, certain species are best suited for some areas over others.

Cacti all share a common survival strategy to preserve water, but the conditions in which they do it can be quite different. The first common mistake in cactus care is treating all cacti as if they are the same. While there are general cactus care guidelines we will point out throughout this article, not every recommendation will suit all species the same.

To best care for your cactus plants and promote the growth of a healthy plant, you should be looking at specific care protocol for your individual plant types. This will ensure that you are mimicking the conditions that each species would be exposed to in their natural environment. Some species of cacti are easier to care for than others.

For example, the Mammillaria genus of cacti likes to stay dry compared to others in the cacti family (Cactaceae). This means that they will need to be watered significantly less than other cacti for ideal growing conditions. Referring to individual species for best-growing conditions will ensure that the plant can thrive.

Cactus in a clay pot outside.
The first common mistake in cactus care is treating all cacti as if they are the same

There are certain species of cacti that are better suited for home growth than others. Here are some of the easiest ones to grow (listed by genus and offering many species within each):

  • Opuntia: Referred to as prickly pear, Opuntia needs bright light as young plants and full sun as adults. They withstand high temperatures and dry environments. Seedlings should be consistently moist, but adult plants are very drought tough. They can completely dry out between watering but need to be soaked.
  • Echinopsis: The Echinopsis genus is characterized by bulbous cacti. They like intense light, need thorough watering when their soil is dry, require good drainage, and do well with fertilizer. 
  • Mammillaria: These need less sunlight than many other species, do not want lots of water and need fast-draining soil.
  • Rebutia: Different species of Rebutia will require varying sun conditions, and most do not want high temperatures. They need their soil to dry before re-watering.
  • Parodia: Keep Parodia away from excessive direct sunlight and shade them during the hottest parts of the day. Their soil should remain moist, so regular watering is required.
  • Ferocactus: These are often barrel-shaped cacti that appreciate direct sunlight, well-drained soil, and limited water. Only rainfall is required to water Ferocactus unless drought occurs.
A prickly pear cactus in a pot exposed to sunlight.
They withstand high temperatures and dry environments.

If you are considering cacti to grow at home, these are among the easiest to grow successfully. A wide range of species falls under each genus, giving you plenty of cactus aesthetics to choose from.

2. Overwatering and Underwatering

One of the coolest features about cacti, which are considered succulents, is their ability to store water. Most cacti store water in their stems and thrive in environments will little access to water. When caring for cactus plants at home, there is typically always access to water, which can be good and bad. While we water most of our plants every day, cacti are not suited for it.

Two common mistakes deal with how much water is being given to your cactus; you can overwater and underwater it. It is all about finding a happy medium as too much water will overwhelm the plant, and too little will cause it to dry out.

It is recommended that cacti should be watered around once a week, but there may be differences depending upon the specific species.

When watering most cacti, you will want to do so when the soil mixture is near or completely dry. The best watering technique is to soak the soil so that the cactus will be able to pull enough moisture from the mixture. Once the soil appears dry again, this is the signal to re-water (should occur every week or so). Too much water can cause the roots to rot when sitting.

A watercan with cactus in a pot beside.
It is recommended that cacti should be watered around once a week

You may also notice physical signs on the cactus that show the impacts of watering at different levels:

  • Coloring: If the plants are not watered for considerable amounts of time, green plants will often appear more yellow. In extreme situations, parts of the cactus will turn brown or black, which indicates death.
  • Plumpness: If the cactus looks very engorged or mushy looking, you may have overwatered it. Limit watering in this case, so the plant has a chance to return to ideal conditions.
  • Wrinkles: If the leaves or outer appearance look shriveled, this is a sign of underwatering. Make sure that containers are sufficiently watered when watering does occur.

The time of year will also determine the watering schedule. The weekly recommendations are for the summer and growing months, while wintertime will require less watering because of dormancy. Only water when soil is completely dry in the winter to avoid drying the cactus out. Soil type will also impact watering habits. Fast-draining soil will require more water as it leaves the container. Larger containers will need more water than small ones.

Always look at the specific requirements of your species but err on the side of underwatering as opposed to overwatering.

Cacti are naturally drought resistant and will be able to handle drier environments as opposed to being overwhelmed with moisture.

3. Using Small Containers and Bad Soil Conditions

The physical conditions in which cactus plants are kept will also have a significant impact on their ability to survive. There are two parts of this common mistake, which include using containers that are too small for growing and bad soil choices. These two factors work together to provide an unsuitable environment for many cactus species.

If you are growing a cactus in a pot, you should examine both the size of the cactus and its roots. Many people will choose too small of a container for their cactus, which will limit the growth capabilities depending on the species. If there are longer roots, you will need a deeper container. It is recommended to choose a container that is slightly larger than the plant.

A golden barrel cactus in a rocky soil.
Rocks allows water to easily pass through the soil so that it does not sit and negatively impact the roots.

For both plants in containers and those in the ground, the soil is critical. It is a common mistake to use regular potting or gardening soil for cactus, which does not contain proper draining qualities and can lead to root rot more quickly than cactus mix or soil. You should be mimicking growing the conditions that cacti find themselves in many desert environments.

The best soils for cacti have the following characteristics:

  • Rocky: This allows water to easily pass through the soil so that it does not sit and negatively impact the roots.
  • Rich in nutrients: Many cactus mixes will include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
  • Contain peat: If kept in extremely dry environments, peat moss is often added to help the plants maintain and hold moisture, so the soil does not dry out too fast. This will vary based on the species you grow.
  • Fertilized: To help aid in the growth of your cacti, consider adding fertilizer to the soil every couple of months. They do best with light fertilizing as full-strength can be overwhelming to their composition and growth. Some soils are enriched with fertilizer and will not require additions. Phosphorus-rich solutions are best for growth.

The containers you plant the cacti in should also have holes at the bottom to allow for this drainage to occur. Without holes, the soil remains moist, leading to premature death and decay of the roots. As cacti proliferate, they need to be repotted every two to three years so they have access to fresh soil with new nutrients.

A pot with drainage hole.
The containers should have holes at the bottom

4. Offering Too Little Sunlight or Scorching Them

Sunlight is crucial to the growth of all plants for photosynthesis. Cacti do engage in photosynthesis, but it is CAM photosynthesis, allowing them to maintain moisture by collecting carbon dioxide at night. The amount of light given to cacti is one of the most important factors in keeping the plant healthy. A common mistake is providing them with too little or too much light.

There are two main issues where sunlight is concerned:

  • keeping them indoors where there is limited light
  • leaving them outside in intense sun that can burn the plant

You want to provide a good light balance for the plant, which will largely depend on the species you are growing. Some cacti require indirect sunlight, bright light, or a restriction on the hours exposed.

A cactus exposed on the sunlight outside.
Most cacti will require 4 to 6 hours of sunlight per day, with specific species being suited for full sun.

If your cactus is receiving too little light, here are some common solutions:

  • Keep it near a window: To avoid burning but allow for more light, keeping a cactus near a window will give it the light it needs without high intensity.
  • Use artificial lighting: If you cannot provide enough natural light, artificial light will work. You will just need to make sure it is exposed to these lights for longer as they are not as powerful or strong as natural lighting will be.
  • Move it outside: Many species will thrive in outdoor environments with ample sun. You can always put it in an area that will be partially shaded if it cannot withstand direct light all day.

A common misconception is that cacti should be left in full sun all day since they are naturally in the desert. For some varieties, this is absolutely true and they need lots of light for growth. Others may be more intolerant, especially if it is a hot and intense sunlight. Brightness may be more important than direct sunlight, which can be achieved near a window for indoor plants.

Most cacti will require 4 to 6 hours of sunlight per day, with specific species being suited for full sun.

Some cacti are found in tropical environments rather than deserts, so intense sunlight is not going to allow them to thrive. Understanding your specific species will help determine this! Cacti can get a sunburn and they will tell you with yellowy skin color. If you notice this, take the cactus out of direct sunlight and grow it either indoors or in areas that will receive shade.

Old lady cactus flowering.
Brightness may be more important than direct sunlight.

5. Using Pesticides Incorrectly

Because we want to keep bugs and insects off our plants for optimal growth, it is a common mistake to use harmful pesticides on your cacti. Most cacti naturally deter bugs and do not really deal with this problem as much as they do bacterial and fungal disease. When bugs do develop, you need to make sure proper insecticides are used as to not damage the plant.

Bugs will feed on the nutrients accumulated in leaves and stems, with the most common pests being:

  • Mealybugs: These are dangerous to the plant and will attack it from the stems and the leaves. They are small white bugs that reproduce quickly and will damage the cactus. Try removing with water or tweezers before chemicals. Neem or horticultural oil and rubbing alcohol solutions can also be used before more intense insecticide applications.
  • Scale: Another difficult pest to remove, scale insects are often found in warm environments (perfect for cacti) and produce honeydew which can contribute to mold creation. If not addressed, leaves will die and it can kill the plant. Similar treatment methods can be used as mealybugs, but armored scales are more difficult to remove. Early intervention is necessary for effective removal.

One of the most common ailments a plant faces when pesticides are involved is phototoxicity. When pesticides are combined with sunlight, they can produce a chemical reaction that is similar to that of a sunburn on the cacti. This will result in burning of the cactus skin and is a direct result of a grower’s application of a pesticide.

A pest in a leaf.
Most cacti naturally deter bugs but when bugs do develop, you need to make sure proper insecticides are used

The best way to both use a pesticide and prevent phototoxicity is to apply pesticides when direct sunlight is not present. Application will kill bugs or pests but have limited impact on the surface of the plant as long as contact with sun is not made. When the pesticide is left on for the amount of time it needs to kill the bugs, wash it off before the plant will be exposed to sun again.

Prevention is the best way to avoid cactus damage related to pesticides. Make sure all pesticides used will not damage the plant upon impact. Using a cactus-specific solution will help to keep your plants healthy and prevent the infestation of bugs or insects on your plants.

Taking Best Care of Cacti

Cacti are incredibly strong plants but they are also sensitive and should be treated with care. They are best served being slightly neglected over being micro-managed with too much water or interference. Our best advice for avoiding the mistakes mentioned throughout this article is to research the specific cacti you will be caring for.

Because ‘cacti’ is a such a large plant grouping, there is not one set of directions that will apply. The common mistakes apply to all cacti, but which ones will be more resilient to either end of the spectrum is largely dependent on the plant you have. Cacti are excellent for homes, and compared to most plants, are beautiful and low-maintenance additions.

What Kind Of Cactus Has Flowers?

Cactus is an amazing plant that you can add inside or outside of your home. While they are relatively low maintenance, ensuring the health of your cactus does require some work on your part. One thing that many people need to research before adding a cactus to their home is the different types of cacti and what to expect from each variety.

Specifically, many people ask: which cactus has flowers? This is somewhat of a trick question because all cacti are flowering plants, and every cactus is capable of blooming once it has reached maturity. However, whether a cactus will bloom is highly dependent on their age and the care the plant receives.

While all cacti are flowering plants and can flower, many find it easier to bloom than others. There are a few species that are more likely to bloom, and those are in the Mammillaria, Gymnocalycium, and Parodia family. But, cacti can produce beautiful flowers that feature impressive, colorful displays.

Which Cacti Are More Likely to Bloom?

With proper care, your cactus is almost certain to bloom at some point. It needs to reach maturity and have a regular period of dormancy to bloom properly.

One of the best ways to guarantee that you are getting a cactus that will bloom is to purchase one that is healthy and already in bloom.

If you are new to the cactus raising world, you will want to purchase a type that is easier to bloom and more likely to produce flowers. When you are shopping for a cactus, look for some of these varieties:

  • Easter cactus or Rhipsalidopsis – The Easter cactus comes in a variety of bloom colors, and they are usually in bloom at the time of purchase. The flowers featured range from red, white, orange, peach, lavender, and pink. To set buds, they need cooler temperatures and longer hours of darkness.
  • Garnet or Dwarf Cacti from Rebutia cactus genus – These cacti are vigorous growers that flower quite readily with proper care. They feature a large, brightly colored flower which arises from areoles. The flowers are usually found around the lower portion of the stems.
  • Christmas cactus or Zygocactus – Christmas cacti are one of the only ones on our list that are not naturally grown in a dry or arid environment but are naturally found in the rainforests of Brazil. It is important to water these cacti more than other types. Also, when they look as if the blooms are about to open, you will want to ensure proper watering and keep the plant cool.
  • Pincushion cactus from Mammillaria family – These cactus plants bear funnel-shaped flowers with a wide variety of colors like red, yellow, pink, white, and green. The flowers will later develop into often red-colored fruits that resemble a berry or are more elongated.
  • Hedgehog cactus varieties – There are a variety of hedgehog cacti that all feature colorful flowers, and most have edible fruits. The flowers open after the spring rains from February to May. The flowers featured are magenta, pink, purple, and lavender, and the blossoms last for five days opening each morning and closing at night.
  • Prickly pear Optunia cactus – Most feature yellow, red, or purple flowers on these cacti that vary in height from less than a foot up to six or seven feet. These cactus plants feature pads, which are edible and vary in size, shape, and color.
  • Bolivian or Lobivia cacti – This cactus blooms in the spring and summer with large flowers that are in vibrant red, yellow, or orange. They blossom along the sides of the stem and never on top. To blossom, you will want to provide the cactus with proper vernalization keeping it in a vegetative state during the winter.
  • Notocactus or Ball Cactus – To encourage flowering, allow the plant to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back watering. You will want to continue to water the plant periodically but provide them this time of dormancy.
A christmas cactus.
Christmas cactus

How Do You Choose a Healthy Cactus?

Of course, choosing a flowering cactus variety is one thing, but making sure it’s healthy enough to bloom successfully is another. To make sure the cactus you choose is healthy, you will want to look for the following:

  • Check the outer appearance. The cactus trunk should be robust and firm to the touch.
  • During cooler months, like fall and winter, you may notice the trunk is wrinkly, but this should not be an issue.
  • The cactus’ spikes should be dense and have good color. The spikes are a great indication of the overall health of the plant.
  • Do not buy a cactus that has a “fake” bloom or flower present. Some locations will add fake decorative flowers to their plants, which makes them more prone to get infectious diseases. Also, removing the fake flowers will leave a blemish on the plant.
  • Look for any signs of sickness or inadequate care. You should be able to notice any spots or bruising. A weak or pale trunk is a sign of a chlorophyll shortage in the plant’s tissue.

How to Care for Your Cactus

Once you have purchased your cactus, it is time to begin caring for your new plant and encouraging blooming. You want to ensure you are providing your cactus with the right environment to ensure annual blooming. Most cacti need bright, hot sunlight during the growing season and several months of cooler, less bright sun during the winter months.

Where to Place Your Cactus

The best way to ensure that your cactus blooms is to mimic the natural cycle that the plants would go through outdoors. If you are planting your cactus outside, you will be in less control of the environment that the plant is in. However, if you live in a dry, desert-like area, many spiny desert cacti do much better outdoors than they do indoors.

Golden barrel cactus in a rocky soil.
If you do not have an area that has an abundance of light, some cacti thrive in artificial light.

However, if you are keeping the plant indoors, to encourage blooming, you will want to put the plant through phases similar to those outdoors. Many bloom in response to a cool, dry, dormant period or during the winter. This means that from around September to April, keep the cactus in bright yet indirect sunlight at about 50 degrees and water more sparingly.

During the growing season, which is during spring and summer, indoor cacti do better in a sunroom or south-facing windowsill. This allows the plant to receive the most sunlight, and they need maximum light and heat during this time. You will also want to turn the plant regularly for even light exposure. If you do not have an area that has an abundance of light, some cacti thrive in artificial light.

When to Water Your Plant

While cacti are desert plants, they do still need an occasional watering to guarantee proper growth. Similar to the amount of light they receive, the amount of water you provide should vary depending on whether it is the growing season or during the dormant months. During the growing season, the plant will need more water than during the dormant season.

A flowering cactus in a water can.
You will want to water the plants one every two or three weeks

Most cacti have adapted to very little rainfall, and even indoor plants have these same hardy characteristics. You will want to water the plants one every two or three weeks. Often, it is best to water on the less often side than too much as these plants can easily rot in oversaturated soil.

An easy way to tell if watering is needed is to feel the soil that the plant is in. You should allow the top two inches of soil to dry out before you water the plant again, at this point water thoroughly until it runs out of the bottom of the pot. You will then empty whatever drainage tray you have present to avoid allowing the plant to sit in extra water.

When to Fertilize Your Plant

Compared to most other plants, cacti do not need regular feeding, and adding fertilizer is more of an owner preference. If you do want to add fertilizer to your plant, opt for a general-purpose houseplant fertilizer that you can find at most lawn and garden stores. Follow directions on the packaging and never overfeed the plant.

A woman applying fertilizer to cactus.
You should also note that overfeeding the plant will not make it bloom.

You should only be fertilizing the plant in the spring and summer months. NO fertilizer should be added during the dormant period. You should also note that overfeeding the plant will not make it bloom.

When to Repot Your Plant

Cacti are universally known for being slow growers, so the need to repot the plant should not be very often. (They also do not need regular pruning or trimming, but you can do this if needed.) However, over time, there will be a need to repot the plant if it outgrows its current pot, but this is likely only to happen once every three or four years.

You can tell if the plant needs repotting because the roots will tightly fill the inside of the container. Also, some cactus plants will become too large to stay stable in the container. If you want to repot your cactus, you have to pay extra care due to the spines of the plant. You should always use some form of tongs, gloves, or a folded towel when handling the plant.

Make sure that you repot your plant in a potting mix that is designed for cacti and succulents. Do not water your cactus for a week after repotting.

A small cactus flowering.
Repot the plant should not be very often

When Will Your Cactus Bloom?

If you follow the proper steps laid out above, your cactus should be in the proper environment for blooming. However, the age of the plant and overall health of the plant can be an important factor. If your plant is not mature, it will not bloom.

As mentioned, the best way to ensure that your plant is going to bloom is to buy one that already has a bloom present. This means that the cactus is at the age of maturity and can bloom. You will still want to provide the proper environment for your plant so it can continue to bloom once in your home.

When Should I Fertilize My Cactus?

A significant number of gardeners out there often think that cacti plants don’t need fertilizer. However, that is not the case. Just like any other plant, cacti need nutrients to help them grow and thrive. While they can get some of the nutrients they need from the potting mix; commercial fertilizer will help them grow fast and bloom beautifully.

So, when should I fertilize my cactus? The best time to feed your succulent is during early spring just before the growing season kicks in. But, if you are well organized, consider setting up a schedule that allows fertilizing your plant two or three times per year; in spring, summer, and fall. Be careful not to feed your plant with fertilizer that is too strong because the effects can be devastating. Most cacti species will appreciate fertilizer that is high in phosphorus than nitrogen but diluted to its half or quarter strength. A 5-10-5 (NPK) solution usually works well in most situations.

Read on to find out everything you need to know about feeding your cactus plant. We discuss essential tips that will help you take care of your plant in the best possible way to help you achieve success.

Cacti Fertilizer Needs

Alongside soil, watering, and light, cacti plants fertilizer needs are quite different from other plants. In the natural conditions where these plants grow, feeding is limited due to the inadequate availability of nutrients. Therefore, they have developed a coping mechanism of how to survive on limited nutrients.

You must stick to this principle to avoid hurting your plant with an excessive supply of nutrients. Generally, cacti plants don’t require heavy fertilization. In fact, plant experts say that if you want to achieve better results, strive to replicate the natural growing conditions of the plant.

To get the best out of your plant, consider giving it multiple small feedings instead of one gigantic flood of fertilizer.

How Do You Know When It’s Time to Feed Your Cactus?

Cacti plants require fertilizer during the active growing season more than any other time. In most cases, the active growing season starts in spring and stretches to early fall. Therefore, you need to come up with a feeding schedule that focuses on fertilizing your plant during this time.

Some gardeners prefer using a time-release feeding mechanism that will automatically feed the cactus for relatively long periods, such as three months, to make sure they do not miss feeding the plant during the peak time.

The primary objective here is to ensure you provide the nutrients when the plant needs them. Keep in mind that most cacti plants wake up from dormancy in spring, and this is the time you will start to notice new growth.

If you are a beginner, it might take you some time before you establish an appropriate feeding schedule for your plant. Do not be in a rush to do things. Start small and improve with time. If you have a plant that grows in winter, make sure you fertilize it at that time.

A soil on the gravel.
Do not be in a rush to fertilize, start small and improve with time

How Often Do You Need to Fertilize Your Cactus Plant?

Now that you know cacti fertilizer requirements and when to apply the fertilizer, the next thing you need to know is how often you need to do it to achieve better results. However, before you decide how often you need to feed your plant, remember one thing; cacti plants are adapted to growing in soils that are poor in nutrients.

This is the primary reason why these plants tend to grow slowly compared to other plants. Therefore, whatever you do, ensure you stick to this principle as much as you can. Avoid overfeeding at all costs because it will only cause more harm than good.

While you can fertilize your plant as often as you want, most plants will generally be fine with one feeding session each year.

Proper and regular fertilization speeds up cacti growth, and that is what you need. Some gardeners with a huge plant collection even prefer mixing a small amount of fertilizer every time they water their plants, and it works fine.

Old lady cactus flowering.
Make an effort to apply fertilizer just before the onset of their growing season.

Generally, it is a good practice to feed your cactus two or three times a year. Make an effort to apply fertilizer just before the onset of their growing season and leave them to rest during the dormancy season.

How to Tell If Your Plant Needs Fertilization

The best way to know when to fertilize your cactus is by observing its growth. When the plant grows fast and healthy, you can skip fertilizer for some time.

However, when it starts showing signs of nutritional deficiency, that’s the perfect time to ring the peak time and give it a dose of fertilizer.

Cacti plants that show signs of nutrient deficiency have pale, yellowish leaves.

If you notice the color and texture of your plant’s foliage changing, it means your cactus needs feeding. Therefore, make sure you apply fertilizer immediately to restore the health of your cactus.

How Much Fertilizer Does Your Cactus Require?

Since most of us purchase general-purpose fertilizer for our cacti plants, you need to adjust the dosage accordingly to meet the needs of your cactus. Most cacti species require less fertilizer than other plant species. Therefore, you will need to dilute the fertilizer accordingly.

If you fertilize regularly (once every month), make sure you are using small amounts of fertilizer- about one tablespoon of fertilizer in three or four gallons of water. 

However, if you only fertilize your plants two or three times in a year, consider using one tablespoon of the fertilizer in one gallon of water.  General recommendations suggest diluting your fertilizer to ½ or ¼ of its strength before you apply it.

Be careful not to use a high concentration of the fertilizer to avoid causing harm to your plants. Plant fertilizer that is not properly diluted is caustic and can cause severe fertilizer burn, which will damage roots and eventually kill your plant.

A soil on hand.
Most cacti species require less fertilizer than other plant species. Therefore, you will need to dilute the fertilizer accordingly

Highly concentrated fertilizer can also cause a sudden change in the pH of water. The ideal pH for most cacti plants and other succulents is around 6.5. When properly diluted, fertilizer cannot impact on water and soil pH.

However, highly concentrated fertilizer can significantly lower the soil and water pH, which is dangerous to the survival of the plant. In case you don’t know how to dilute the fertilizer appropriately, seek help from a plant expert.

Signs That You Are Overfeeding Your Cactus Plant

You should avoid overfeeding your cactus plant by all means. Overfeeding can lead to various plant problems, such as fertilizer burn and root rot.

Some of the common signs that you are overfeeding your cactus include yellowing foliage, wilting leaves, poor growth and development, and brown spots on the stem.

If you suspect your plant is getting too much fertilizer, stop feeding it immediately until the symptoms subside.

Once the symptoms subside, adjust your feeding schedule accordingly and stick to it. Doing this will help you achieve better results without risking the health of your succulent.

Can I Use Mineral Fertilizer to Feed My Cactus?

Mineral fertilizer is a popular choice for many gardeners and farmers because it is readily available, affordable, and easy to apply.

But while mineral fertilizer may be suitable for other plants, you should refrain from using it on cacti since it produces an unbalanced ratio of nitrogen and phosphorus.

Regularly applying mineral fertilizer to your cactus can cause more harm than good because it can cause root burn, eventually leading to your plant’s death.

So, if you plan to feed your cactus, use a balanced liquid, slow-release organic fertilizer, or an all-purpose gardening fertilizer specifically formulated for cacti plants. This will help you achieve better results without risking the health of your succulent.

Remember to dilute the fertilizer appropriately before applying it to your plant. As mentioned earlier, using an undiluted or too-strong solution on your cactus can lead to root burn and other problems.

So, ensure you get the right ratios when preparing the fertilizer solution for your cactus.

Fertilizing Indoor Cacti

Many of us might have discovered the beauty and low-maintenance of growing cacti plants in pots. Potted plants are a welcome beauty to our indoor spaces and will always make you feel better and happy.

While growing cacti plants in containers is more of a low-maintenance option, you still need to feed them regularly to achieve better results.

Golden Barrel cactus flowering.
You should start watering your indoor plants at the start of spring through summer and early fall.

Keep in mind that cacti plants grown in the ground get most of their nutrients from the surrounding soil. The numerous amounts of microorganisms in the soil constantly break down organic matter, adding nutrients to the soil.

However, the potting mix you use in your growing container doesn’t undergo this process. Therefore, potted plants need supplemental nutrients to thrive. The additional nutrients come in the form of fertilizer.

Below is an outline of the essential things you need to keep in mind when feeding your indoor cacti:

  • Consider using a liquid, low-nitrogen, and high-phosphorus fertilizer, or find an appropriate organic fertilizer alternative.
  • If you water your potted cactus regularly (at least twice every month), apply fertilizer at its quarter strength. Don’t go beyond this proportion because it may be dangerous.  If you don’t water your plants regularly, consider using fertilizer at its ½ strength.
  • The best time to apply the fertilizer is when you are watering your plant. Generally, you should start watering your indoor plants at the start of spring through summer and early fall. Do not water your plant during winter unless it is absolutely necessary.

Inducing  Flowering with Fertilizing

If you are like most people, your biggest joy is to see your cactus bloom and beautify your home. Unfortunately, not many people enjoy the privilege of seeing their desert plant flowers. Our bonus fertilizing tip may help you with that problem.

One of the secrets our experts have learned over many years of growing cacti is that proper fertilization can get your plant bloom almost on-demand.

We know how useful this technique can be because some cacti species don’t bloom easily. Some may even take up to 30 years before they start flowering!

The secret to getting your cactus plant flower fast is to add a small amount of dissolved ammonium sulfate to the water. Alternatively, you can dissolve the ammonium sulfate powder into the water directly.

Ammonium sulfate is a specialty plant fertilizer that is hard to find at local garden shops, but you can find it online.

Make sure you apply the ammonium sulfate early in spring when your cactus plant is just coming out of the dormant winter phase. This is the time your plant is starting to prepare for the flowering season that mostly happens in summer.  Therefore, the ammonium sulfate is meant to give it some little head start.

Since you don’t need a lot of ammonium sulfate to do the trick, one bag should be enough to last for years.

A cactus blooming.
The secret to getting your cactus plant flower fast is to add a small amount of dissolved ammonium sulfate to the water

Final Thoughts

Fertilizing your cactus plant shouldn’t be a difficult task. We hope the information you have read in this post provides you with a good headstart you need to do a good job. So, if you are now itching to fertilize your cactus, find a good fertilizer, and get started.

Also, if you have enjoyed reading this post, and you want to share it with your friends, feel free to hit the share button and keep the conversation going.

Does A Cactus Need Fertilizer?

Most of us can agree to the fact that cacti plants are some of the hardiest and most resilient plant species in the world. Generally, they are low-maintenance plants that need little care to thrive. These plants can store water for a relatively long period and adapt to different environments quite well. But the big question is, do cacti plants require fertilizer to survive? Can these plants thrive and bloom without any form of fertilization? We are here to help you understand the right thing to do.

So, does a cactus need fertilizer? The simple answer is yes.  Just like any other plant, cacti need nutrients to thrive and bloom. Occasional fertilization helps the plant replenish the essential nutrients it has used from the soil throughout the season. At minimum, fertilizing your cactus plant at least once or twice a year is a good thing to do. However, if you are well organized and can set up a good schedule, fertilizing it three times a year (in spring, summer, and fall) can yield great results.

Keep reading to understand everything you need to know about fertilizing your cactus plant and how to do it properly.

Before we start, here is a list of our favorite and recommended Fertilizer (Here)

Why Is Cactus Fertilization Important?

What is the first thing that hits your mind when you hear about cacti? Most probably, you picture a thorny desert plant that is used to surviving in hostile environments. You probably think the perfect environment for these plants is a harsh desert with two weather extremes; longer periods of no rainfall and shorter periods of sporadic rains.

You picture a plant that must always strive to absorb and store as much water as possible whenever it rains to survive. But did you know that there is the other side of a cactus plant, especially when it is domesticated?

The moment you decide to start growing cacti plants in your indoor or outdoor garden, you should be prepared to treat them right to achieve the results. Fertilizing your plant can help to keep it happy and healthy, no matter the season.

Top view of small cactus plants in a pot.
Feeding your cactus will help it adapt, actively growing, and flower beautifully

Just like any other houseplant, feeding your cactus will help it adapt, actively growing, and flower beautifully. The right kind of fertilizer applied the right way and at the right time helps your plant obtain all the necessary nutrients needed to thrive.

Furthermore, proper fertilization encourages healthy growth and flowering.

Now that you know why it is essential to feed your plant, it is also important to know the right type of fertilizer to use and how to fertilize the plant correctly.

Types of Cactus Fertilizers

As mentioned earlier, fertilizers contain essential nutrients your plant requires for healthy growth. Cactus fertilizer can either be organic or inorganic and are mostly available in powder, liquid, solid, or granular form.

A soil, Mineral and fertilizer.
Fertilizers contain essential nutrients your plant requires for healthy growth.

A significant number of gardeners prefer using inorganic fertilizers because their chemical composition is consistent.  This doesn’t mean organic fertilizers are bad, but most of them may lack essential elements which might cause a deficiency. You may also be forced to use them for a prolonged period to achieve better results.

The main elements of cacti fertilizers include:

1. Nitrogen (N)

The primary purpose of nitrogen is to encourage good top growth. It also plays a critical role in building protoplasm, protein, and other essential components of plant cells.

2. Phosphorous (P)  

Phosphorous/phosphate encourages good root growth to provide the plant with strong anchorage. This mineral element also helps in seed germination (in case you want to propagate your cactus by seed) and ripening of fruit.

3. Potassium (K)

The primary purpose of potassium is to encourage good flowering and development of fruits. You will need a fertilizer that is high in potassium when you are trying to make your cactus plant bloom.

During spring (when your plant is in an active growth cycle), consider using a low nitrogen release fertilizer. A 5-10-5 (NPK) compound works best. Carefully mix your fertilizer in the potting mix, and it will keep your cactus plant happy until summer.

Another good alternative is to use a water-soluble fertilizer. Once you have obtained your water-soluble fertilizer, mix ½ tablespoon per gallon of water and spray carefully onto the base of your plant.

When using water-soluble fertilizer, consider applying the fertilizer at least once every two weeks during the active growth season.

Water-soluble fertilizer tends to work best for desert cacti than using a granular mixture. However, both methods are quite good, and the final decision will largely depend on what you prefer.

During the dormant period (winter), do not feed your plant with fertilizer because it is in a “resting” mode. 

What Is the Best Fertilizer for Your Cactus Plant?

Now that you know the types and major components of cacti fertilizer, you may be asking yourself how to determine the best fertilizer for your plant.

Before we dive deep into the selection criteria, there are a few things you need to keep in mind.

First, you should know that cacti plants are not heavy feeders. This means they do not require a lot of fertilizer to thrive. In fact, these succulents tend to respond well when fertilizer is applied at a half or quarter strength.

Also, you should keep in mind that strong fertilizers, especially those with high nitrogen component, may cause problems to your plant. Although most cacti plants do not require a specific fertilizer blend, they often do well when fed with a highly diluted multi-purpose fertilizer.

Always go for a low-nitrogen, water-soluble fertilizer for better results. Use a 5-10-10 (NPK) fertilizer blend or 10-10-10 (NPK) diluted to its ¼ strength. You can also come up with your own custom blend by combining a 5-10-10 blend with a 1-7-6 blend.  The resultant blend may help in maintaining a consistent amount of nutrients in your potting mix.

A gravel with sand.
Cacti plants are not heavy feeders, this means they do not require a lot of fertilizer to thrive

The bottom line is to ensure you are feeding your cactus plant with the best possible blend of fertilizer. A few manufacturers sell already diluted fertilizer ready for use.  Feel free to find one if you do not want to handle the dilution process by yourself.

Signs That Your Cactus Needs Feeding

The truth is that cacti plants are highly sensitive to fertilizer. As a result, you must watch out for signs of nutrient deficiency before you consider feeding them.

Your cactus’ leaves and stems will become yellowish if it is not getting enough nutrients. You may also notice that the overall growth rate has significantly slowed down. This is an indication that your plant requires feeding.

But it doesn’t mean that the appearance of these signs indicates that your cactus needs more fertilizer.

Stressful conditions such as prolonged dryness and too much water can deprive your plant of vital nutrients.

If you are uncertain, water the soil deeply before adding a diluted fertilizer solution. Give your cactus time to respond before adding more fertilizer.

Fertilizing Your Cactus Plant

As the growing season approaches, take time to inspect your plant regularly. Consider inspecting it at least once every week and check for signs of new growth such as fresh needles, new leaflets, or increased size. You should only start feeding your plant when there are signs of growth.

One important thing you need to keep in mind when fertilizing your plant is to use your fertilizer sparingly. Too much fertilizer can lead to poor root growth and stunted growth.

If you are using a 10-10-10 (NPK) or 5-10-10 fertilizer blend, be sure to dissolve one tablespoon of the fertilizer in one gallon of water.

A woman putting fertilizer to cactus.
Remember the fact that you are not supposed to overfeed.

Use the resultant mixture to water your cactus plant until the soil is completely moist. However, you need to be careful to avoid overwatering your plant since it may have adverse effects on your plant.

If you are using a 1-7-6 (NPK) fertilizer blend, consider using the slow-release method to feed your plant. Take one tablespoon of the 1-7-6 (NPK) fertilizer blend and mix it with one gallon of water. Use the mixture to water your plant sparingly.

When watering a potted plant, allow the mixture some time to sink in properly.  Also, make sure you are pouring the mixture slowly to allow the plant enough time to absorb it and drain out whatever is excessive.

Always check if the topsoil of your container is completely dry before watering again. This should happen after approximately two weeks.

No matter how you choose to feed your plant, remember the fact that you are not supposed to overfeed. You might think you are doing the right thing, but overfeeding is dangerous to your cactus the same way overwatering is.

Essential Things to Keep in Mind When Feeding Your Cactus Plant

  • Overfeeding may cause more harm than good. Applying too much fertilizer can cause severe burns or even death.
  • Be careful with your plants during summer if you are using chemical fertilizers. A slight mistake can be catastrophic.
  • Know the type of fertilizer that will work best for your plant. If you have no idea where to start, consult experts.
  • Always start slow and improve with time if you don’t see the desired results.
  • Fertilizer can damage recently potted or repotted cacti plants. Consider delaying fertilization until after your cactus establishes itself in the new pot. This occurs after two to three months.
  • Some cacti species, such as the holiday cactus, are usually dormant in summer and active in winter. Therefore, for such plants, develop a reverse fertilization schedule so that you feed them at the right time.
A soil on hand.
Overfeeding may cause more harm than good so always start slow and improve with time

When Is the Best Time to Feed Your Cactus?

The best time for fertilizing your cactus plant is during the growing season, usually from late spring to early fall.

Consider applying the right fertilizer once every two weeks only when you notice new growth in your plant.

However, if you are using a slow-release fertilizer blend, consider fertilizing your cactus every three months instead. Take time to observe your plant and adjust your fertilizing schedule accordingly.

At the end of the day, every cactus is unique and different, so pay attention to your plant’s needs when creating a fertilizing schedule. Most importantly, remember not to overfeed or overwater your cactus.

What Happens If I Overfeed My Cactus Plant?

Overfeeding is as detrimental to your cactus plant as overwatering. Too much fertilizer can burn the roots and leaves of your cactus, leading to stunted growth or even death.

Moreover, excess fertilizer might wash away essential trace elements from the soil, resulting in nutrient deficiency.

Therefore, if you suspect you have overfed your cactus, withhold the fertilization immediately.

Consider flushing the soil with large amounts of water to eliminate any excess fertilizer and restore nutrient balance in the soil.

Furthermore, if the leaves of your cactus are yellowing or wilting even after providing optimal care and fertilizing correctly, consider consulting an expert for help.

They will diagnose the exact problem and provide professional advice on how to maintain the health of your cactus and restore its beauty.

Can I Use Organic Fertilizers on My Cactus?

Yes, organic fertilizers are as effective in providing essential nutrients to your cactus as chemical fertilizers.

These fertilizers usually come from natural sources such as guano, bone meal, compost, earthworm castings, and fish emulsion.

Organic fertilizer is an excellent choice if you are looking for an eco-friendly way to feed your cactus.

Moreover, these fertilizers also help improve the structure of your soil over time and promote microbial activity in the soil.

Final Thoughts

Providing good growing conditions and following a proper feeding schedule are critical elements you need to adhere to when growing cacti plants. Doing things right will give your plants the best chance of staying healthy and happy throughout the year.

Now that you know how to fertilize your cactus, don’t be afraid to go out there and practice what you have learned here. Go create your own beautiful and happy cactus gardens and enjoy life!

Hope you enjoy this article, here is a list of our favorite and recommended Fertilizer (Here)

5 Most Common Mistakes In Cactus Care And How To Avoid Them

Cacti are popular plants to grow at home (both indoors and outdoors) because they require very little maintenance and are among the coolest looking plant varieties. Because of their unique needs compared to most plants you keep in a garden, there are specific guidelines that need to be followed for care. Many misinformed care strategies may hurt the plants. 

These are five common mistakes in cactus care: 

  1. Caring for all cacti the same way 
  2. Overwatering and Underwatering 
  3. Using small containers and bad soil conditions 
  4. Offering too little sunlight or scorching them 
  5. Using pesticides incorrectly 

Many things in life need to be done in moderation. This is particularly true when caring for cacti as our common mistakes show that too much or too little of something can be equally damaging to the plant. We will cover the common mistakes that arise in cactus care and what you should be doing to make sure that your cacti are appropriately cared for. 

Common Mistakes in Cactus Care

Cacti can be very easy to care for when done so correctly, but it can also be challenging as they are very different from plants that we are familiar with. They are native to the Western Hemisphere, often being found in arid environments where drought is frequent. However, there is variation in the environments they are found in, with some being drier and more intense than others. 

Cacti have become a popular plant species to grow and take care of at home, providing that care mimics their growth and survival in the wild. The following are five common mistakes in cactus care and how you can modify these mistakes to care for your cactus plants best. 

1. Caring for All Cacti the Same Way 

Cacti are not only unique from other plants, but they are incredibly unique among each other. There are upwards of 2,000 species found throughout North and South America, all in varying weather and living conditions. Because they are naturally found in different climates, soil conditions, and environments, certain species are best suited for some areas over others. 

Cacti all share a common survival strategy to preserve water, but the conditions in which they do it can be quite different. The first common mistake in cactus care is treating all cacti as if they are the same. While there are general cactus care guidelines we will point out throughout this article, not every recommendation will suit all species the same. 

Cactus in a pot outside.
Cacti all share a common survival strategy to preserve water, but the conditions in which they do it can be quite different

To best care for your cactus plants and promote the growth of a healthy plant, you should be looking at specific care protocol for your individual plant types. This will ensure that you are mimicking the conditions that each species would be exposed to in their natural environment. Some species of cacti are easier to care for than others. 

For example, the Mammillaria genus of cacti likes to stay dry compared to others in the cacti family (Cactaceae). This means that they will need to be watered significantly less than other cacti for ideal growing conditions. Referring to individual species for best-growing conditions will ensure that the plant can thrive. 

There are certain species of cacti that are better suited for home growth than others. Here are some of the easiest ones to grow (listed by genus and offering many species within each): 

  • Opuntia: Referred to as prickly pear, Opuntia needs bright light as young plants and full sun as adults. They withstand high temperatures and dry environments. Seedlings should be consistently moist, but adult plants are very drought tough. They can completely dry out between watering but need to be soaked. 
  • Echinopsis: The Echinopsis genus is characterized by bulbous cacti. They like intense light, need thorough watering when their soil is dry, require good drainage, and do well with fertilizer.  
  • Mammillaria: These need less sunlight than many other species, do not want lots of water and need fast-draining soil. 
  • Rebutia: Different species of Rebutia will require varying sun conditions, and most do not want high temperatures. They need their soil to dry before re-watering. 
  • Parodia: Keep Parodia away from excessive direct sunlight and shade them during the hottest parts of the day. Their soil should remain moist, so regular watering is required. 
  • Ferocactus: These are often barrel-shaped cacti that appreciate direct sunlight, well-drained soil, and limited water. Only rainfall is required to water Ferocactus unless drought occurs. 
Prickly pear cactus in a pot exposed to sunlight.
Opuntia needs bright light as young plants and full sun as adults.

If you are considering cacti to grow at home, these are among the easiest to grow successfully.

A wide range of species falls under each genus, giving you plenty of cactus aesthetics to choose from. 

2. Overwatering and Underwatering 

One of the coolest features about cacti, which are considered succulents, is their ability to store water. Most cacti store water in their stems and thrive in environments will little access to water. When caring for cactus plants at home, there is typically always access to water, which can be good and bad. While we water most of our plants every day, cacti are not suited for it. 

Two common mistakes deal with how much water is being given to your cactus; you can overwater and underwater it. It is all about finding a happy medium as too much water will overwhelm the plant, and too little will cause it to dry out. It is recommended that cacti should be watered around once a week, but there may be differences depending upon the specific species. 

A water can beside the cactus.
It is recommended that cacti should be watered around once a week, but there may be differences depending upon the specific species

When watering most cacti, you will want to do so when the soil mixture is near or completely dry. The best watering technique is to soak the soil so that the cactus will be able to pull enough moisture from the mixture. Once the soil appears dry again, this is the signal to re-water (should occur every week or so). Too much water can cause the roots to rot when sitting. 

You may also notice physical signs on the cactus that show the impacts of watering at different levels: 

  • Coloring: If the plants are not watered for considerable amounts of time, green plants will often appear more yellow. In extreme situations, parts of the cactus will turn brown or black, which indicates death.
  • Plumpness: If the cactus looks very engorged or mushy looking, you may have overwatered it. Limit watering in this case, so the plant has a chance to return to ideal conditions. 
  • Wrinkles: If the leaves or outer appearance look shriveled, this is a sign of underwatering. Make sure that containers are sufficiently watered when watering does occur. 

The time of year will also determine the watering schedule. The weekly recommendations are for the summer and growing months, while wintertime will require less watering because of dormancy. Only water when soil is completely dry in the winter to avoid drying the cactus out. Soil type will also impact watering habits. Fast-draining soil will require more water as it leaves the container. Larger containers will need more water than small ones.

Water droplets on cactus.
Cacti are naturally drought resistant and will be able to handle drier environments.

Always look at the specific requirements of your species but err on the side of underwatering as opposed to overwatering. Cacti are naturally drought resistant and will be able to handle drier environments as opposed to being overwhelmed with moisture. 

3. Using Small Containers and Bad Soil Conditions 

The physical conditions in which cactus plants are kept will also have a significant impact on their ability to survive. There are two parts of this common mistake, which include using containers that are too small for growing and bad soil choices. These two factors work together to provide an unsuitable environment for many cactus species. 

If you are growing a cactus in a pot, you should examine both the size of the cactus and its roots. Many people will choose too small of a container for their cactus, which will limit the growth capabilities depending on the species. If there are longer roots, you will need a deeper container. It is recommended to choose a container that is slightly larger than the plant. 

A clay pot with a drainage whole.
The containers you plant the cacti in should also have holes at the bottom to allow for this drainage to occur

For both plants in containers and those in the ground, the soil is critical. It is a common mistake to use regular potting or gardening soil for cactus, which does not contain proper draining qualities and can lead to root rot more quickly than cactus mix or soil. You should be mimicking growing the conditions that cacti find themselves in many desert environments. 

The best soils for cacti have the following characteristics: 

  • Rocky: This allows water to easily pass through the soil so that it does not sit and negatively impact the roots. 
  • Rich in nutrients: Many cactus mixes will include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. 
  • Contain peat: If kept in extremely dry environments, peat moss is often added to help the plants maintain and hold moisture, so the soil does not dry out too fast. This will vary based on the species you grow. 
  • Fertilized: To help aid in the growth of your cacti, consider adding fertilizer to the soil every couple of months. They do best with light fertilizing as full-strength can be overwhelming to their composition and growth. Some soils are enriched with fertilizer and will not require additions. Phosphorus-rich solutions are best for growth. 

The containers you plant the cacti in should also have holes at the bottom to allow for this drainage to occur. Without holes, the soil remains moist, leading to premature death and decay of the roots. As cacti proliferate, they need to be repotted every two to three years so they have access to fresh soil with new nutrients. 

A soil on hand.
The soil should be mimicking the conditions that cacti find themselves in many desert environments

4. Offering Too Little Sunlight or Scorching Them 

Sunlight is crucial to the growth of all plants for photosynthesis. Cacti do engage in photosynthesis, but it is CAM photosynthesis, allowing them to maintain moisture by collecting carbon dioxide at night. The amount of light given to cacti is one of the most important factors in keeping the plant healthy. A common mistake is providing them with too little or too much light. 

There are two main issues where sunlight is concerned: 

You want to provide a good light balance for the plant, which will largely depend on the species you are growing. Some cacti require indirect sunlight, bright light, or a restriction on the hours exposed. 

Plants near the window exposed to sunlight.
At home, keep your Cacti near a window

If your cactus is receiving too little light, here are some common solutions: 

  • Keep it near a window: To avoid burning but allow for more light, keeping a cactus near a window will give it the light it needs without high intensity. 
  • Use artificial lighting: If you cannot provide enough natural light, artificial light will work. You will just need to make sure it is exposed to these lights for longer as they are not as powerful or strong as natural lighting will be. 
  • Move it outside: Many species will thrive in outdoor environments with ample sun. You can always put it in an area that will be partially shaded if it cannot withstand direct light all day. 

A common misconception is that cacti should be left in full sun all day since they are naturally in the desert. For some varieties, this is absolutely true and they need lots of light for growth. Others may be more intolerant, especially if it is a hot and intense sunlight. Brightness may be more important than direct sunlight, which can be achieved near a window for indoor plants. 

Most cacti will require 4 to 6 hours of sunlight per day, with specific species being suited for full sun. 

Some cacti are found in tropical environments rather than deserts, so intense sunlight is not going to allow them to thrive. Understanding your specific species will help determine this! Cacti can get a sunburn and they will tell you with yellowy skin color. If you notice this, take the cactus out of direct sunlight and grow it either indoors or in areas that will receive shade. 

5. Using Pesticides Incorrectly 

Because we want to keep bugs and insects off our plants for optimal growth, it is a common mistake to use harmful pesticides on your cacti. Most cacti naturally deter bugs and do not really deal with this problem as much as they do bacterial and fungal disease. When bugs do develop, you need to make sure proper insecticides are used as to not damage the plant. 

Bugs will feed on the nutrients accumulated in leaves and stems, with the most common pests being: 

  • Mealybugs: These are dangerous to the plant and will attack it from the stems and the leaves. They are small white bugs that reproduce quickly and will damage the cactus. Try removing with water or tweezers before chemicals. Neem or horticultural oil and rubbing alcohol solutions can also be used before more intense insecticide applications. 
  • Scale: Another difficult pest to remove, scale insects are often found in warm environments (perfect for cacti) and produce honeydew which can contribute to mold creation. If not addressed, leaves will die and it can kill the plant. Similar treatment methods can be used as mealybugs, but armored scales are more difficult to remove. Early intervention is necessary for effective removal. 

One of the most common ailments a plant faces when pesticides are involved is phototoxicity.

When pesticides are combined with sunlight, they can produce a chemical reaction that is similar to that of a sunburn on the cacti. This will result in burning of the cactus skin and is a direct result of a grower’s application of a pesticide. 

The best way to both use a pesticide and prevent phototoxicity is to apply pesticides when direct sunlight is not present. Application will kill bugs or pests but have limited impact on the surface of the plant as long as contact with sun is not made. When the pesticide is left on for the amount of time it needs to kill the bugs, wash it off before the plant will be exposed to sun again. 

A dying cactus.
Using a cactus-specific solution will help to keep your plants healthy and prevent the infestation of bugs or insects.

Prevention is the best way to avoid cactus damage related to pesticides. Make sure all pesticides used will not damage the plant upon impact. Using a cactus-specific solution will help to keep your plants healthy and prevent the infestation of bugs or insects on your plants. 

Taking Best Care of Cacti 

Cacti are incredibly strong plants but they are also sensitive and should be treated with care. They are best served being slightly neglected over being micro-managed with too much water or interference. Our best advice for avoiding the mistakes mentioned throughout this article is to research the specific cacti you will be caring for. 

Because ‘cacti’ is a such a large plant grouping, there is not one set of directions that will apply. The common mistakes apply to all cacti, but which ones will be more resilient to either end of the spectrum is largely dependent on the plant you have. Cacti are excellent for homes, and compared to most plants, are beautiful and low-maintenance additions. 

Ultimate guide: how to pot (and repot) a cactus plant?

Choosing the correct pot size and potting mix are only the first steps towards growing a cactus plant at home. Once you have everything ready, you will need to do the actual potting. Luckily, potting is a relatively straightforward process that shouldn’t give you problems.

So, how do you pot a cactus?  The process of potting a cactus plant starts with finding the right pot size and potting mix. Make sure the pot and soil have good drainage. Once you have the two, add sufficient drainage material at the bottom of your pot, fill it to about one-third with your potting material and start arranging your plants in the container. Hold the plant where you would like it to stay and fill out the spaces between the cactus and the pot with your potting material.  Firm the soil and you are good to go.

Read on to find out everything you need to know about potting/repotting your cactus plant, including how to choose the right pot size, how to knock out the plant, and how to handle spiny plants.

The Potting Mix/Medium (Soil)

You will need porous soil with excellent drainage. Cacti plants prefer porous soil that doesn’t hold water/moisture for a long time. The potting mix should also be spread over a deep layer of pebbles, gravel, or broken bricks to improve porosity.

Most cacti species appreciate more organic matter in the soil since it provides sufficient nutrients for your plant. Potting soil can either be “heavy,” “light” or “organic.”

Heavy potting mix is mainly made of clay, loam, or garden soil with about one-third humus. If you prefer using heavy soil, make sure it contains about one-third perlite or sand to improve drainage.

Light soil means it is mainly made of open-textured organic material with good drainage. The soil can stay moist for relatively long periods but not wet. This type of potting mix is good for jungle cactus.

Organic soil is rich in leaf mold or any other organic matter. Mixing this type of soil with perlite or coarse builder’s sand will help improve its drainage.

A soil on the gravel.
Cacti plants prefer porous soil that doesn’t hold water/moisture for a long time

The Pot Size

The overall pot size will largely depend on the size of your plant and the nature of its roots. Generally, we recommend using a pot that is about 0.5 inches bigger than the plant. The container doesn’t need to be tall/deep because most cacti plants develop a shallow root system that doesn’t grow deep. Therefore, you will want to make sure the pot is wider and not deeper.

However, a few cacti species grow a taproot that provides the plants with strong anchorage and also absorbs moisture from deep below the surface. If you have this type of plant, make sure you go for a relatively deep/ tall pot.

For relatively younger cacti plants, feel free to start by keeping them in a garden dish. The clay trays used for bonsai are always a good start. Once the plant starts to grow bigger, consider transplanting it into a pot.

Make sure you aren’t over-potting because it can lead to root rot. If the cactus is top-heavy, make sure you put the smaller pot inside a large pot and fill the space between the two with gravel to improve drainage. This arrangement will provide your cactus with a base that is heavy enough without running the risk of root rot.

A clay pot.
We recommend using a pot that is about 0.5 inches bigger than the plant

Potting a Cactus Plant

Now that you have the right pot size and good potting mix, it is time to do the actual potting. Follow these steps to pot your plant:

1. Add gravel to your potting mix

Carefully spread a layer of gravel or small pebbles in the bottom of your pot. Top it up with some potting mix designed for your cactus. Make sure the mixture rises to about one-third of your container.

The primary reason why we are adding pebbles/gravel to the potting mix is to improve drainage and soil porosity. Keep in mind that ordinary potting mixes tend to hold too much water for long periods, which is not good for your plant.

2. Remove the cactus from the nursery pot

In most cases, you will purchase the plant when it is already potted in some kind of container.  Therefore, you will need to know how to remove it from that container. This might be the trickiest part since it requires great care.

Slip on a pair of heavy gloves to protect your hands and use a pair of tongs to ease out the cactus from the pot carefully.  If the plant clings to the nursery pot, be sure to give it a few light raps against a wall or any other hard surface or simply slide a blunt knife/fork around the inner rim.

If that doesn’t work, you may be forced to break the container altogether. Make sure you put on a protective eye gear before you smash the container.

3. Test the plant size

Once you have filled the container with gravel and potting mix to about one-third full, test the plant size to see if you are good to go. Make sure the plant isn’t too far down in the container nor too high above the top of the pot. Also, center the plant unless it is the type that likes to travel in a horizontal direction, which should be potted on the edge of the container.

A small cactus on an orange pot.
Center the plant unless it is the type that likes to travel in a horizontal direction.

4. Position the plant where you want to be in the pot

Hold the plant gently where you would like it to stay and fill all the spaces between the cactus and the container with a potting mix.

5. Firm the soil

Once your plant is in a good position, use a spoon, small trowel, or any other tool to add more potting mix while gently firming it down. Press the soil gently down, especially around the roots, and if you feel like there isn’t enough soil around the plant, feel free to add more.

However, be sure to leave sufficient space between the soil surface and the top of your container so you will have room for water.

6. First watering

Lightly water your cactus for a few minutes. From there, wait for a few days until the soil dries out completely before you water again. Remember the fact that if you overwater the plant, it may start to rot and eventually die.

A water container beside the cactus on the pot.
Lightly water your cactus, wait for a few days until the soil dries out completely before you water again

Repotting a Cactus Plant

Repotting is an inevitable exercise in the life of a cactus plant. Since your plant is always growing, it will eventually outgrow its first pot, and you will be forced to repot it in a bigger container. Typically, your cactus will require potting every 2-4 years. Here are a few things you need to know about repotting:

When do you need to repot a Cactus?

You will know it is time to repot your cactus when you start seeing roots come out of the bottom of the container. This is a sign of overgrown roots.

Although these succulents tend to enjoy small spaces and can stay in one container for several years, the sight of roots will let you know when the cactus has expanded too much and requires repotting.

As mentioned above, it will generally take you between two to four years to see signs of repotting. If you fertilize your cactus annually, repotting after every four years is appropriate, but if you do not fertilize regularly, consider repotting after every two years to help in replenishing soil fertility.

The best time to report your plant is between January and February when most plants are in active growth.

How to repot your cactus

To repot your cactus, you will need tea towels/sheets of newspaper, a blunt knife, slightly larger pot, free-draining potting mix, watering can, horticultural grit, and a fork. Follow these steps to repot your plant:

  1. Loosen up the potting mix by carefully running a blunt knife or any other suitable tool in it. Make sure you are thorough with this process to avoid damaging the plant.
  2. Carefully remove your cactus from the old pot. Be cautious to avoid coming into contact with the spines. Hard gloves or combined sheets of newspaper will help you avoid contact with the pricks. A pair of tongs can also work fine.
  3. Remove soil from the roots and make sure you have individual roots separated from each other
  4. Thoroughly check the roots for any signs of diseases or pests and treat with appropriate chemicals if need be
  5. Prune large roots
  6. Allow the cactus to dry out for up to four days to allow roots that might have been hurt enough time to heal to eliminate the risk of root rot.
  7. Follow the potting procedure described above to plant the cactus in the new pot. However, don’t water your plant immediately.  Give it up to a week after repotting before you water it. 
A top view of flowering cactus.
Typically, your cactus will require potting every 2-4 years

Final Thought

Potting and repotting are crucial parts of growing cactus at home since they ensure you maintain the ideal pot size at all times. As long as you follow the steps outlined in this guide, you can pot/repot your plant without a problem.

Thanks for reading our potting guide, and we hope you learned something new. Let us know if you have any tips or advice you feel like we didn’t share. Don’t forget to subscribe to our email list for awesome cactus gardening tips.

How Big Of A Pot Does A Cactus Need?

Choosing the right pot size for your cactus plant can be quite complicated, especially if you are still a new gardener. A container that is too small or too big can have a significant impact on the overall health of your plant. Luckily, once you figure out how pot size affects the growth of your cactus plant, it becomes relatively easier to establish the appropriate size for your plant.

So, how big of a pot does a cactus need? Generally, you should leave about a half-inch of space between the main body of your cactus and the pot’s rim. This will provide the plant with sufficient room to grow and spread. Too much space between the plant and the pot rim can prevent it from growing larger because the roots need to spread out first before the cactus starts to expand. For instance, if you acquire a three-inch cactus plant, a 3.5-inch pot will be good enough.

In this post, we discuss everything you need to know about container size for a cactus. Read on to discover more.

Cactus Root System: A Quick Overview

Before we dive deep into discussing the right pot size for your cactus plant, it is essential to understand the nature of this plant’s root system because it will have a significant impact on the container size.

Generally, cacti have a shallow root system that tends to spread out widely but less deep. They have fibrous roots that specialize in absorbing moisture from the ground surface more easily. These roots only penetrate a short distance into the soil.

For instance, a young Saguaro plant that is about 12cm high may have a root system spanning two meters in diameter and only 10cm deep. The extensive root system is one of the main factors behind the successful survival of cacti plants in deserts where there isn’t plenty of water. 

However, some species usually have a long taproot that grows deep into the ground to anchor the plant and draw out as much moisture as possible.  The taproot is supported by smaller fibrous roots that stay close to the ground surface to absorb water and moisture quickly.

If you purchase a cactus plant with a taproot, you may want a relatively deep container to allow the taproot enough space to grow. Carefully study the root structure of your preferred plant and keep it in mind when choosing the container shape and size.

Different kinds of plant picked from the ground.
Cacti have a shallow root system that tends to spread out widely but less deep

Why Is Pot Size Important?

Pot size is a critical factor to consider when growing cacti because it plays a crucial role in determining how healthy your plants will be. A container that is too small can be a detriment to your plant’s health.

If the roots of your plant become constricted due to small pot size, the plant won’t grow as fast as it should. It will also limit the overall size of your cactus at full maturity. Furthermore, small pots hold less soil which means fewer nutrients are available for the roots of the cactus to absorb.  You will experience the same issues if you grow too many plants in one pot.

While you may not be having a pot that is too small, you should also avoid containers that are too big for your plant.  It may seem like an incredible idea to provide your plant with plenty of growing space, but that could also cause a wide range of health issues. A container that is too big can even cause your plant to die.

Cactus and succulent plants in a pot.
A container that is too small can be a detriment to your plant’s health.

Keep in mind that if the container is too big, it will hold a lot of water for longer periods. Over time, the roots of your plant will start developing root rot due to overexposure to excess moisture.

Root rot is a serious problem that can easily result in the death of your plant. If you realize your pot is too big, make sure you monitor the amount of water and frequency of watering to avoid problems.

Apart from the overall size of the pot, its depth also matters. Avoid containers that are too deep or too tall because of the amount of potting mix they contain. Just like containers that are too large in diameter, those that are too deep/tall tend to retain a lot of moisture for longer periods which can result in root rot.

Although you may be looking for a container with sufficient room for the taproot, you need to keep in mind that too much room may cause other problems. Generally, these succulents prefer shallow containers that dry out faster. This way, you will have healthy and happy plants.

Determining the Right Pot Size

Many seasoned gardeners recommend using a container that is about 10% larger in diameter than the cactus plant at its widest point. For instance, if your cactus plant is approximately four inches across its widest point, consider a container that is about 4.5 -5 inches in diameter.

These measurements include both the above and below ground portions of your plant.

Cactus in the windowsill.
Avoid containers that are too deep or too tall

A good-sized pot will provide your cactus with sufficient room to grow without having too much soil or crowding the roots.

Potting multiple plants in one container

At this point, you may be wondering if it is right to have more than one plant in a single pot. Well, it is fine to plant more than one cactus in one container, but you need to be careful with the process. Make sure the plants have similar growing requirements, i.e. their water and light requirements match.

For instance, a jungle cactus may not be compatible with a desert cactus, but you can have an Echinocereus sp. in the same pot as the Mammillaria sp (desert cactus). You should also consider the growing rate of each plant before mixing them.

Slow growing plants can be potted together the same as fast-growing plants. If you end up with a mix of slow-growing and fast-growing cacti in the same pot, things won’t be good. In most cases, the fast-growing cactus will upset the balance of your composition and force you to get rid of it because it would overcrowd the slow-growing species.

When choosing your pot, make sure you consider how many plants you plan on potting in the same container. In this case, it is upon you to use your best judgment and instinct to estimate how much room each plant will require to avoid overcrowding.

Also, keep in mind that most cacti plants need a considerable amount of light to thrive. Therefore, be sure to allow sufficient room for each plant to receive enough light without blocking others.

Several kinds of cactus in one pot.
Slow growing plants can be potted together the same as fast-growing plants

Up-potting

Potting is a continuous process, and the proper pot size for your cactus will always change as the plant grows.

As it gets bigger, you will need to transplant it into a larger pot. Gardening experts recommend using a pot that is approximately one or two inches larger in diameter than the previous container.

This will allow your cactus to grow without risking its health with too much moisture or soil. 

Be careful with cuttings

When planting cacti cuttings, make sure you are using an incredibly shallow pot. Cuttings can easily be damaged if they are given too much moisture or when planted too deeply.

The relatively smaller containers that you may not use with your bigger plants will always work best when potting cuttings.

Critical Features of a Good Cactus Pot

No matter the size or shape of your container, it is crucial to ensure that it has proper drainage. A container that doesn’t allow water to drain out quickly is quite dangerous because it will expose the roots to excess moisture leading to root rot. You must also make sure you are using the right type of potting mix intended specifically for cacti plants.

It is also critical to consider the material the container is made of and how it will affect your plant. Ceramic and terracotta containers are quite popular, but they tend to heat up quickly when exposed to sunlight. This can dry out the soil pretty fast before the plant absorbs sufficient moisture.

Wooden containers usually stay cool for longer periods when exposed to sunlight but retain too much moisture in shades.  Some pots are also made of a metallic material, but they are not a good choice for long-term use because they are susceptible to rust.

Always consider where you will be keeping your plant before you decide on the type of container to purchase. The storage area will help you determine what material will be best for that location when shopping for your plant pot.

Cactus in a clay pot outside.
Always consider where you will be keeping your plant before you decide on the type of container to purchase

Final Thoughts

Pot size is a crucial factor to consider when growing cacti plants. Generally, the right pot will almost be the same size as the plant and more specifically, its roots.

When choosing your pot, it is always good to take a look at your plant roots to determine whether you will need a deep or shallow container. If your plant grows long roots, you will want a relatively deep container.

We believe you are now well equipped to purchase a new pot for your cactus. While there are lots of other things you need to consider when choosing a pot, it is still a fun part of growing cacti plants.

Let us know what you think in the comments section and subscribe to our email list for the latest cactus growing tips.

How To Make A Christmas Cactus Bloom? Here are the secrets

If you are like many gardeners out there, then a Christmas cactus must be one of your favorite plants. The lovely flowering cactus is one of the few cacti species that originate from the forest.  While this is an attractive plant to have all year, its real magic is displayed when it starts to bloom. Unfortunately, getting your Christmas cactus to bloom when you want it can be quite a challenging task unless you know how to do it right.

So, how can you make a Christmas cactus bloom? Well, the secret to getting your Christmas cactus to bloom is providing it with the right temperatures and amount of light.  Christmas cacti tend to flower in a cold and relatively dark environment. To initiate the production of flower buds, make sure you expose it to at least 16 hours of darkness and eight hours of light for at least six weeks. With the right conditions, it can take up to 12 weeks for the first blooms to appear.

In this simple guide, we walk you through the simple steps you need to take to ensure you receive the best show from your Christmas cactus. The information contained here may also apply to other types of cacti as long as you tweak the schedule to accommodate for the different flowering seasons.

The Christmas Cactus: A Quick Overview of the Plant

Schlumbergera bridgessii, commonly referred to as Christmas cactus, is a type of succulent that originates from the tropical rainforest of Brazil. Some people love to call it the crab cactus thanks to its leaf-shaped stem segments that feature curved pointed teeth along the edges. The Easter cactus is closely related to the Christmas cactus, but it has rounded edges on its leaf segments.

Christmas cactus is usually classified as epiphyte because it thrives above the ground in areas where tree branches meet and decomposing fallen leaves collect. Even though this plant bears the name of a cactus, the care it needs has nothing to do with the typical desert cactus. To be more specific, this plant is classified as forest cactus.

The plant grows well when it is pot bound and prefers a rich and organic potting mix. Never allow the potting mix to dry out if you want to keep it alive. Also, once you notice that it is growing bigger and bigger, you should plan how to move it up to a larger container.

Christmas cacti do well in bright, indirect light. Avoid exposing it to direct sunlight because the intense heat can easily cause sunburn to its leaf segments.

Christmas cactus flower.
Christmas cactus is usually classified as epiphyte.

How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Bloom

The trick to getting your Christmas cactus to bloom boils down to three critical things: light, temperature, and water. Typically, the bloom season for this plant comes during fall- in the last days of October and the early days of November. This information will help you understand when you should start preparing your plant for the blooming season.  

Here are the three critical points you need to be aware of if you want to make your Christmas cactus bloom:

Reduce Watering

To encourage blooms to form, you need to start limiting the amount of water your plant receives. The only thing you need to do is to keep the topsoil moist, not waterlogged.  Water the topmost layer of your potting mix, which is approximately one inch only when it is necessary.

Keep in mind that too much water may cause the buds to fall.  You should only water the plant when the topmost soil layer (about one inch or 2.5cm) is completely dry to touch. Minimal watering will encourage the plant to enter dormancy, which is a critical stage for getting your plant to bloom.

Feed Your Cactus

Although Christmas cactus is known to survive without fertilizer, feeding your plant with slow-release or liquid fertilizer will help promote flowering. Preferably, feed your plant every two weeks from mid-summer until it stops blooming.

Use organic liquid fertilizer to ensure that the Christmas cactus takes in all the essential nutrients for healthy growth and bloom production.

Compost tea and fish emulsion are some of the best options for indoor plants like Christmas cacti.

Alternatively, use a slow-release fertilizer during the blooming season. Be sure to follow the instructions given on the packet when feeding your plant and read the labels carefully. Do not overfeed your cactus plant because it will affect its growth.

Provide Enough Lighting and Darkness

Apart from watering, you will need to ensure that your plant receives the right amount of light and darkness. To bloom, your plant requires between 12 to 14 hours of uninterrupted darkness for at least eight weeks.

This period should start from mid-September to the end of October or early November. Exposing it to some indirect bright sunlight during the day is okay, but you have to ensure that it receives at least 12 hours of absolute darkness at night.

Christmas cactus flower bud.
It will take approximately six weeks for you to start seeing the flower buds.

After this period of exposing it to intense darkness, it will take approximately six weeks for you to start seeing the flower buds. If you are growing your Christmas cactus indoors, do not turn on the lights at night even for a second because it breaks the dark cycle required.

Cool Temperature

Limiting watering and placing your cactus in a dark room isn’t all that is needed to make it bloom. You also need to keep the surrounding environment as cool as possible. Typically, you should work towards keeping the temperature to an average of about 50-55 degrees F.

This should happen every night from mid-September to the end of October. Therefore, it is critical to ensure that the location where you have stored your plant provides both the right light and temperature requirements.

"COOL" Lighting.
keep the surrounding environment as cool as possible, about 50-55 degrees F

Avoid Pruning Your Cactus

Pruning or trimming your Christmas cactus is not recommended since it will leave the plant in a weak state which won’t be able to produce blooms.

Even if you want to remove some dead parts from the stems, do so very carefully and only when necessary.

The best time to prune your Christmas cactus is after it has bloomed. This way, the plant will have enough time to recover and adjust from the pruning process before it slides into winter dormancy.

Be careful not to damage the flowers while trimming or shaping your Christmas cactus. If you do, it will reduce its bloom production and, in some cases, prevent them from showing up.

Taking Care of the Flowers on Your Christmas Cacti

If you do everything right, you can be sure to experience a magnificent floral show. But how do you take care of the flowers to enjoy the show for as long as possible? The first thing you need to do is to ensure your plant continues to receive prolonged hours of darkness and cold temperatures for between six to eight weeks.

You should also consider relocating your plant to a relatively sunny and draft-free spot. However, protect it from direct sunlight as much as possible since intense heat may cause some of the flowers to start falling off. 

Christmas cactus flowering in a pot.
Ensure your plant continues to receive prolonged hours of darkness and cold temperatures for between six to eight weeks.

Exposing the plant to brighter, indirect sunlight will encourage it to produce more flowers. Christmas cactus will also bloom better when it is pot-bound.

While watering may be slightly increased during the blooming period, the amount will vary depending on your plant’s current light conditions, humidity levels, and temperature.

The good news is that when you force a Christmas cactus to bloom by providing it with the right conditions and proper care, it may surprise you by blooming several times in a year.

Can a Christmas Cactus Bloom More Than Once in a Year?

Yes. Unlike other types of cacti species, a Christmas cactus can put on the floral display more than once a year if you provide it with proper growth and blooming conditions. For instance, positioning your plant on an east-facing window that receives abundant sunlight during the day and at least 12 hours of darkness every night can make your plant bloom again.

In essence, we are looking at the right balance between light, darkness, warmth, and coldness. The cold evening temperatures may encourage your plant to flower again, even when you least expected it.

Make sure your Christmas cactus plant receives the right amount of darkness and cool temperatures in fall so that it can bloom again in winter. While it blooms, continue to provide the right conditions as it takes long before you can start to see new flower buds sprout.

Why Won’t My Christmas Cactus Bloom?

The holiday season is here, and you have put in place the right measures to ensure you enjoy the most beautiful floral display of the season. But what happens if your Christmas cactus doesn’t bloom?  What might be the problem?

Here are some of the common reasons why your Christmas cactus isn’t blooming.

Overwatering

The sad truth is that most of us love to pamper our plants during the summer. While your Christmas cactus may love a drink or two every week throughout summer, it can still survive with less.

It might sound strange, but the truth is that these plants usually need a period of almost-drought to signal it to start preparing for winter blooming. So, if you are a lazy waterier, you might just be helping your plant to bloom.

Flower in a water can.
To encourage blooms to form, you need to start limiting the amount of water your plant receives

It is getting too much light

Staring mid-September until the end of October, your Christmas cactus requires at least 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness to bloom. Unfortunately, artificial lights in your house can easily interrupt the cycle of darkness.  The easiest way to solve this problem is to relocate your plants to a room that is not often used.

It is too warm

Christmas cacti will need a significant drop in temperature to signal the plant to start preparing for the blooming season. If you have positioned your plant on a south-facing window, which is the warmest spot in your house, try moving it to a north-facing window or near the door.

The stream of cool air that hits the plant when the door is being opened or shut should signal it to start preparing for the blooming season.

It’s malnourished

Your plant may not bloom because it is malnourished or has been given excess fertilizer.

Be sure to feed your Christmas cactus with the right amount of liquid-based nutrients every two weeks during the growing season and reduce fertilizer levels once flowering starts.

You can also consider repotting your Christmas cactus into a new soil mix. Usually, these succulents prefer to stay in their pots for several years, and they may even bloom biannually.

How Long Do Christmas Cactus Flowers Last?

The flowers on a Christmas cactus have an average lifespan of about two to three weeks, depending on how well you take care of your plant.

Generally, when the flower buds are still in their tight bud stage, they last for up to two weeks before finally blooming. Once they bloom and open fully, they’ll stay around for another week before they start to wilt.

When the flowers fade, cut them off to maintain an aesthetically pleasing look on your Christmas cactus.

This will also make the plant focus its energy on other buds that have yet to open up so that it can produce a second round of blooms until the end of winter.

Final Thoughts

Christmas cacti are prolific bloomers that can put on an unbelievable flora display as long as the conditions are right. The flowers form at the end of the leaves, and each flower can last for up to one week. 

The best way to make your Christmas cactus bloom is by reducing watering, exposure to light, and keeping it in a relatively cooler spot. The flowering period of these plants can last for up to six weeks and occurs around the Christmas period.

Do you have a Christmas cactus plant and have mastered the art of getting it to bloom? We would love to hear your experience in the comment section below.

How Do I Know If My Cactus Is Dying?

Is your cactus plant changing color? Does it look unhealthy or unhappy? If so, then you should be worried because you might be staring at a dying plant. The truth is that cacti plants are hardy and will thrive with minimal care. However, just like any other living thing, they have weaknesses, and if you are not careful or don’t take action swiftly, the plant can develop diseases, which will eventually lead to death.

So, how do I know if my cactus is dying? Well, one of the easiest ways to know if you are staring at a dying cactus is checking the plant’s overall condition. Typically, a dying cactus feels shakier in its potting mix and may appear as though it wants to fall off. This is a clear sign of root rot and other underlying problems. Some plants may also change color, develop soft segments on the stem, or start producing a foul smell.

Read on to find out some of the telltale signs of a dying cactus and some of the common reasons why cactus plants die. We are here to help you grow healthy and happy plants.

Early Signs that Shouldn’t Worry You Much

Before we jump into serious signs of impending death, it is good to know some of the early signs so you can deal with the issue as early as possible.  In this section, we look at some of the signs that should make you concerned but are not actually symptoms of potential death.

Some plants change color

It is good to note that some cacti plants change color when they are stressed and unhappy. However, you need to observe the color change keenly because it may be a sign of good health.

A sunburned Golden Barrel Cactus.
If your plant is turning to yellow or brown, then you should be worried.

For instance, if you expose your plant to lots of sunlight, it may turn to reddish, which shouldn’t be a major cause of concern.  Unfortunately, if your plant is turning to yellow or brown, then you should be worried.

Corking

Another common phenomenon that gardeners mistake for a disease is corking. In most cases, corking happens naturally as the plant ages. During this stage, your plant will develop a hard, brown skin where its green outer layer used to be.

The browning usually starts from the base of the plant and gradually develops up the stem. The parts affected by corking harden and turn to light brown or brown grayish. In such a case, your cactus is only aging and not dying.

Withering

Another common sign that people mistake for death is withering. If you discover that your plant has shed some pads and some parts are drying off, then it is a sign of dehydration. In such a case, the only thing you need to do is water it.

Most cacti species react to prolonged spells of drought by preserving the younger parts and letting the older ones dry and fall off. No need to worry because this is not lethal, and your plant will soon recover as long as you water it moderately and regularly. 

Also, don’t be afraid to cut off the dried parts if you need some beauty.

Signs That Your Cactus Plant Is Possibly Dying

Some signs point to serious problems that can lead to the death of your plant. The moment you notice any of these signs, be sure to act swiftly just in case you still have some time to save your cactus.

Discoloring

In most cases, cacti plants will start to lose their natural color as a sign of stress and strain. Depending on where the actual problem is coming from, the discoloring can begin at the top end of stem segments or from the base of the plant. 

A sunburned cactus.
Cacti plants will start to lose their natural color as a sign of stress and strain.

Severe discoloration is quite dangerous, and death is guaranteed if you do not take rapid action.

Your plant become wobbly

You should be worried if your cactus has become wobbly because this is a clear sign of root rot. Keep in mind that succulents are slow-growing plants, which means that symptoms of underlying problems develop quite slowly.

By the time you notice the signs, it could mean the roots have already rotten beyond repair.

If the base of your plant has become yellow or brown, then it could mean the cactus is already in a severe state.

Root rot is, by far, one of the most common causes of cactus death. Root rot is often accompanied by a loss of firmness and turgidity of the leaves and stem of the plant.

A person holding the cactus which freshly picked from the ground.
Take it off the ground, identify all the rotten roots, and cut them off.

To try and save your plant, take it off the ground, identify all the rotten roots, and cut them off. Rotten roots will appear brown or even blackish depending on the level of rot, while healthy roots will be light in color.

Presence of soft segments around the plant

In most cases, discoloring will be accompanied by stem portions that appear soft and swollen. These parts can easily break off with minimal force. 

The easiest way to establish the presence of soft segments around your plant is by trying to pull a spine off. If it falls off easily without much struggle, you should be worried.

That alone is a sign of a dying cactus.

Fungal infection

Fungal infection is also another sign of a dying cactus plant. You can easily recognize fungal infection because it causes lacerations in the tissues of your cactus plant. The lacerations may start at the areolae or any other part of the outer tissue.

Fungal infections take different shapes and colors, but the most common are only two.

The presence of brown dents on the plant’s outer tissue rounded in most parts like half-moons is a sign of fungal infection. The appearance of white-gray spots is also another sign of fungal infection.

Fungal infection on the aerial part of the plant may not be as damaging as root rot, but they are still dangerous.

A fungal infection on a plant leaf.
Fungal infections causes lacerations in the tissues of your cactus plant.

The best way to avoid further damage as a result of such infections is by spraying your plant with a natural fungicide. Most people prefer using tea tree oil diluted in water to treat such infections.

Alternatively, you can sponge the affected areas with alcohol for as long as it takes.  However, if the infection was too severe and had already damaged part of your plant, consider chopping off the affected area and sterilize the wound.

Foul smell coming from your plant

If your cactus plant is emitting a foul smell, you should be worried because it is a bad sign. Foul smell means that a significant part of the plant is completely rotten, and there is probably nothing you can do to save it.

In other words, your plant is no longer in the dying process, but it is dead. All you can do in such a case is to dispose of the plant and obtain a new one if you still need to have a cactus plant around.

Reasons Why Your Cactus Is Dying

Now, you can tell if your cactus is dying, but your biggest worry should be; why is it dying?  It becomes easier to deal with the problem if you know the cause. Here are some of the common causes of cactus death.

Overwatering

Overwatering is by far the surest way of killing a cactus plant. While it may seem a sensible thing to do, frequent watering only causes more damage than good.

Typically, cacti plants need less love, attention, and water. Some of the common signs of overwatering include browning, root rot, and unusually plump spines. 

To avoid this problem, try not to be overzealous in your watering and follow these simple watering tips all the time.

Improper planting depth

Planting cacti too deeply inside a container can also cause death. Try to position your plant at almost the same potting mix depth it was grown at while at the nursery or previous container.

Resist the temptation of burying a significant portion of the stem into the soil. While planting or repotting your cactus, make sure all the green stem tissue remains above the soil.

When your newly planted cactus shows signs of bending, consider using a wooden to provide support instead of additional soil.

Improper soil drainage

Cacti plants need a special type of soil to thrive. Typically, these plants do well in soils that drain water quickly. If the soil holds water for too long, root rot becomes inevitable.

Luckily, it is not hard to get the right type of soil for your plant. You can make your own potting mix or go for the commercial soil mixtures, which also work fine.

Wrong pot size

Getting the wrong size of a container for your plants is another sure way of kicking off the dying process. The pot could be too small or too large.

A pot that is too small for your plant will most likely choke its roots since there is little breathing space. A larger pot, on the other hand, may retain too much water leading to root rot.

A clay pot with hole.
Getting the wrong size of a container for your plants is another sure way of kicking off the dying process

Lack of light/sun

Have you noticed unusual stretching of your cactus plants towards a light source? This might be a sign of inadequate exposure to light. The stretching is referred to as etiolation and is common among indoor plants.

Most cacti species are native to deserts and require access to intense sunlight to thrive. Therefore, if you are living in a region that receives less sunlight, you should consider supplementing the deficit with artificial lights.

Fortunately, there are lots of good grow lamps on the market designed to deliver the exact amount of lights needed by indoor cacti plants.

The Bottom Line

While it is relatively easy to grow cacti plants, you need to keep in mind that they are susceptible to death if the conditions are not right. Since they are slow-growing plants, it may take several weeks or even months before you start to notice signs of death in the plant.

To save your plant, always act swiftly whenever you notice any of the symptoms discussed above. We hope you now know about dying cacti plants and what you can do to save them.

It is now time to check around your plant and do the necessary.

20 Best Cactus Species For Your Indoors / Outdoors Cactus Garden

Cacti are one of the extraordinary plants. Most people prefer them and can be grown either indoors or outdoors. With proper care: watering when needed and having the right potting mix, your cactus can last for decades. They require minimal supervision and are ideal for aesthetics. 

As I was researching on cactus species, I wanted to know which species are ideal for indoors and outdoors. I have compiled a list of 20 types of cacti that are ideal for your home. 

Indoor Cactus

A Saguaro Cactus
Saguaro Cactus

1. Saguaro Cactus

Also known as Carnegiea gigantea, this particular species can grow to over 40ft/12m in height. The Saguaro is native to the Whipple Mountains, the Sonoran Desert in Arizona, Imperial County found in California and the Mexican State of Sonora. 

It has a lengthy lifespan of approximately 150 years. Some may grow their first side arm after about 75-100 years. However, some don’t grow these arms and are referred to as Spear. 

It starts flowering in between April and June. The flowers open after sunset and close mid-afternoon. 

It can take about ten years for the Saguaro to reach 1 inch in height. 

Their fruits are red and are often between 2.4 inches to 3.5 inches. They ripen in June and are edible. 

Saguaros are barrel-shaped and have peripheral stems, which are the “arms.” The plant stores water, and the more it stores, the more it expands and becomes heavy. A foot of the Saguaro can weigh up to 90 pounds. A mature one can even weigh about or over a ton.

Watering cactus is an essential aspect of the plant as proper care needs to be taken for it to grow healthy. Water the Saguaro every 10 to 14 days. However, be sure to check if the soil still has moisture before watering it to avoid root rot.

The oldest Saguaro to live is the ‘Old Granddaddy,’ and it was 300 years old when it died. 

2. Angel Wings

A  Angel Wings.
Angel Wings


Also known as Bunny Ears or its scientific name Opuntia microdasys, the Angel wings cactus is native to northern and central Mexico. It is more of a dense-like shrub that’s usually40-60cm tall. The stems range from 6-15 cm long while 4-12 cm broad. 

Unlike some other cacti, it has no spines but instead, has yellow or white glochids that are 2-3mm and in clutters. The glochids are thinner than the human hairs and detach when touched. Upon touching, they can cause skin irritation. 

The Angel Wings cactus has no central leaves or stems but has individual segments that contain the cactus body. The sections grow in pairs which the new growth resembles bunny ears. 

Budding always begins late spring and produces flowers that are 2 inches. The flowers are yellow but slowly fade to peach once they are fertilized. 

Since this is a desert cactus, regularly water it when in a new pot to from strong roots. Don’t water it during winter. 

Its fruits are safe to eat but should be handled with care, especially when repotting. 

3. Rat Tail Cactus

A  Rat Tail Cactus.
Rat Tail Cactus

The Disocactus flagelliformis or the Aporocactus flagelliformis is native to Mexico. It can be grown indoors, outdoors, or in greenhouses. It is quite a distinctive species whose long trailing stems branch out and are about 1-2 m long and 8-24mm thick. 

The cactus flowers during spring and summer and they are usually red, violet, pink or orange. The flowers are generally 2 inches, which last for a few days. 

Due to its trailing stems, the rat tail cactus is grown in hanging pots. It’s easy to propagate it by cuttings as the stems grow so fast. 

Full light is necessary for this species. Make sure your pot/container is near or on a south or west-facing window. During summer, when the cactus is blooming, ensure the potting soil is moist. However, during winter, water sparingly; when the soil is dry. 

For the temperature, your cactus is just fine at room temperature during summer, spring, and early autumn. However, during winter, keep the cactus in a more relaxed setting. 

4. Christmas Cactus

 A Christmas Cactus
Christmas Cactus

Just as the name suggests, the Christmas Cactus blooms around Christmas. It has hanging branches that are green and flat about 3ft tall. 

The flowers are commonly red, lilac, yellow, pink, and white. They are usually 3 inches long. Native to coastal parts of Brazil, this cactus prefers a humid climate. 

Christmas Cactus is scientifically referred to Schlumbergera. Proper care will help you see the tips of leaves starting to grow. The tips will then begin turning darker until buds appear. Around Christmas time, the buds will then open to beautiful flowers which are perfect for the season. 

They do well in natural light but avoid direct sunlight to encourage blooming. Water them every 3-4 weeks. Only water when the pot is dry on your touch. It requires more water when flowering. 

The type of soil you use should contain leaf matter and debris as this is what they feed on. If you want to propagate, do so 2-3 months after flowering. 

For them to bloom, they’ll need 12-14 hours of complete darkness daily. 

5. Barrel Cactus

A Barrel Cactus
Barrel Cactus

Barrel cacti are not just one species but various species belonging to two genera, Ferocactus and Echinocactus. They are native to southwestern North America. Some species reach over 1 meter in height at maturity. Others have been known to reach 3 meters in some areas. They are 30cm wide. 

They have a lifespan of an average of 100 years. Naturally, barrel cactus live in extreme heat and direct sun, and it’s only natural to try and mimic the same conditions indoors. 

Barrel cacti are muffin-shaped and often pop out over the edges of their pots. You can easily distinguish it because of its elongated fruits and wavy ribs.

The flowers that bloom in April tend to be yellow, orange or purple and are up to 8cm across. The spines can go up to 10cm long. They grow in a circular shape on top of the cactus when it is quite old. 

For barrel cactus to bloom, they need full sunlight during spring and summer. Direct sunlight can make them become stunted and sunburned and fail to thrive, which is why they are perfect indoors because you can control the amount of light they are getting. 

Due to adapting to arid conditions, their water requirements are not high, and you can even get away with watering every 2-3 months. Unlike other types of cacti, the barrel ones are hard to check for water because their shape almost covers the whole pot and it’s easy to get pricked. 

What kills most barrel cacti is overwatering. Only water when you think it’s essential to avoid root rot.

Place your cactus on a south-facing window, and it does best without humidity. You can also add some cactus fertilizer during the growing season.  Propagation is by seed. 

6. Old Lady Cactus

A Old Lady Cactus.
Old Lady Cactus

Old Lady Cactus, commonly known as Mammillaria hahniana, is a powder puff species which grows in arid areas. It is native to central Mexico. It is capable of growing 10inches/25cm by 20inches/50cm broad. The width being 12cm. White spines usually cover it. 

The Old Lady Cactus is quite popular. As much as it is found in arid areas, it makes a perfect indoor plant as well. You just need to place it in a sunny place in the brightest spot in the room and avoid overwatering it. A south-facing window is perfect. 

It blooms in spring and summer producing red or purple flowers with them being about 0.6 inches/15mm in diameter. It needs 4-6 hours daily for it to thrive. 

Make sure when choosing a cactus soil, you get a porous one, one that drains quickly to avoid the roots sitting in water for an extended period. Make sure you add perlite into the mix. You can use potassium fertilizer once during summer. 

Only water when the soil is almost dry. It could be weekly or biweekly depending on its requirements. Avoid watering during winter unless the plant needs it.  

If you want to propagate, use the offsets that often form clusters on the base of the main plant. Remove the offset and let it dry in a few days so that it forms a callous. Once it forms, you can plant it in a new pot. 

7. Bishop’s Cap

A Bishop’s Cap.
Bishop’s Cap

Also known as bishop’s hat or bishop’s miter cactus, this particular species is native to the highlands of northeastern and central Mexico.

Its scientific name is  Astrophytum myriostigma.  The word astrophytum is Greek meaning star plant. Physically, it has about three to seven vertical ribs which define its star-like shape when young. As it matures, the ribs may increase in number and become more cylindrical. 

The bishop’s cap grows to about 70-100cm tall with a 10-20cm diameter.  The flower which is usually daisy-like appears on top of the cactus. It is typically a maximum of 2inches in diameter.

The cactus blooms in early spring. It produces one or more flowers and is usually creamy yellow with a red or orange base. It can take up to six years to flower. Each of its flowers blooms after every two days. 

For the young plants, the bishop’s cap can’t take intense light, which is why it is perfect indoors. Never place them under the full sun. 

These types of cacti don’t require a lot of water. Only water frequently during summer and avoid watering at all during winter. 

8. Moon Cactus

A  Moon Cactus
Moon Cactus

The moon cactus has a scientific name, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii. The species is native to Paraguay and Argentina. They are found in South America as well. 

Moon cacti are also referred to as Ruby Ball, Red Hibotan, Hibotan cacti or Red Hibotan. What makes them stand out is their red, pink, orange, or yellow colors. The colors are usually ball-shaped, making them look like balls with thorns that sit on another green-colored cactus. It’s more of a two-in-one kind of plant. 

This particular species comes in numerous varieties. What’s frequently found is the mutant of cultivated ones where the colors are only viable if they are grafted because they don’t assimilate because of lack of chlorophyll. In most nurseries, it’s grafted onto another green cactus that has chlorophyll. The plants reach both a heigh and a diameter of 3-5cm while the flowers are 4-5cm wide. 

This type of cactus does not require a lot of water. Only water it when the soil feels dry. Don’t water during winter unless it’s a young moon cactus but even on these occasions, water minimally. 

For sunlight, they thrive best in bright but avoid direct sunlight. It; s great for beginners as it is a low maintenance cactus.

Outdoor Cactus

1. Prickly Pear Cactus

A  Prickly Pear Cactus
Prickly Pear Cactus

The Prickly Pear Cactus is also known as Opuntia. The prickly pears (fruits) are referred to as Tuna, and the pads are Nopals. 

The cactus can grow to a height of about 5-7m, which is equivalent to 16-23ft with spines of 2.5cm. Some are spineless as well. 

Opuntia is only native to the Americas. They are available in various parts of the world and are in abundance in Mexico (central and western areas & West Indies), United States (in drought-prone Western and The south-central regions) and Canada (southern and western) among other areas. 

The Tuna is a typical delicacy in Mexico. The fruits come in various colors: red, yellow-orange, wine-red, or green and can be eaten raw depending on how ripe they are. The pads are also edible; they require thorough cleaning before incorporating them into your meals. The nopales are used in numerous Mexican dishes such as eggs and salads.  

When it comes to propagating, you only need the stem segment. Make sure you plant in spring or summer for better results. 

When caring for your cactus, it doesn’t need pruning. Make sure to get the right potting mix with porous soil that drains quickly to avoid water resting in for long. For newly propagated pads, don’t water for the first month. After that, you can water every 2-4 weeks. 

Growth may be slow after propagating and may take 3-4 years before it produces many flowers. 

As mentioned, the pads are edible — harvest about ⅓ of the pads to keep your plant healthy. The pads are best cut in the mid-morning since the acid content is usually low. 

Place the Opuntia where light is maximum as it requires ample sunlight. For hotter climates, have a partial shade for them to avoid scorching. If you plant them outside in garden soil, no fertilizer is needed. 

These cacti bloom mid-spring all the way to mid-summer. 

2. Jumping Cholla Cactus

A  Jumping Cholla Cactus.
Jumping Cholla Cactus

Also known as the hanging cholla, it is native to the South Western United States and Sonora. Scientifically known as Cylindropuntia fulgida grows at elevations of 300 to 1,000m. The jumping cholla is tree-like grow to heights of  4m/13ft.Their wart-like projections on their stems measure between 6-9mm. Their flowers range from pink, white and lavender and are about an inch wide. 

The name, ‘Jumping Cholla’ comes from the ease at which the stems will detach upon the slightest touch. Their sharp spines will attach themselves to animals and people where they get dispersed.  Upon dispersing, when people remove them and throw them on the ground, they easily root there. 

Chollas do well in slightly acidic soil with an approximate pH of 6. The best potting mix to use for these cacti is one with grit and sand. Just like other cacti that have spines, be cautious when repotting as they may end up sticking on you. Get a pair of leather gloves and a newspaper to ensure you have no contact with them. 

They need as much light as possible and do well in greenhouses where there’s partial shade. Always check the soil for moisture before watering. If it’s moist, wait till it dries to avoid overwatering. 

3. Old Man Cactus

A Old Man Cactus.

Image from Red Bubble

As hilarious as the name sounds, you may think it doesn’t exist, but the truth is, this cactus does exist. The cactus s native to Hidalgo and Guanajuato in eastern Mexico. 

Otherwise known as Cephalocereus senilis it is a columnar species that has clusters of stems that grow between 5-15m tall. What’s striking about this species is the shaggy coat of some long and white hairs that resemble unkempt hair of an older man, hence the name. 

It usually takes a long time before flowering, which can take place anywhere between 10-20 years. The flowers are generally yellow, red or white and bloom at night. They bloom in spring.

It grows well in Mediterranean climates, and it loves well-draining soil hence the need to have a good mixture. 

The best way to grow it is from seeds as it may be hard to get its cuttings. Old man cactus is slow-growing and may take about a three-month germination period, which is why purchasing a grown away could be an easier option. 

This species loves bright light and heat and needs a lot of special care. Allow the soil to dry before watering the plant thoroughly.

4.  Organ Pipe Cactus

A  Organ Pipe Cactus.
Organ Pipe Cactus

Also known as Pitaya, this particular species is native to the United States and Mexico. They are mostly found in rocky deserts. 

Scientifically known as Stenocereus thurberi, has several stems that grow from one short trunk and rising vertically. The stems are usually 15cm/6inches thick with an average height of  4.9m/16ft while others reach between 23and 26ft. 

Older plants have funnel-shaped flowers that open at night and close during the day. They are usually white and are 8cm for the older plants. The flowers grow around April, May, and June. 

What’s interesting is that they bear fruits as big as a tennis ball with people claiming it tastes better than a watermelon. 

Grow the cactus in gritty,well-drained soils. In the case you are growing them in a container, you can mix one part perlite, one part sand, and one part potting soil. Since it is found in the hot sunny areas, ensure it accesses full sunlight. 

In early spring, water it regularly but look out for indications of overwatering. 

The organ pipe has an estimated lifespan of 150 years. 

5. Peanut Cactus

A  Peanut Cactus .
Peanut Cactus

A peanut cactus can both be grown indoors or outside. Scientifically known as Echinopsis chamaecereus, this cactus is native to Argentina. 

It has long stems that are about 1cm/0.4inches wide and orange flowers that are about 4cm/6inches wide. The flowers appear in late spring. They can grow up to 15cm/6inches tall. 

This particular cactus is quite popular in gardens of hot areas and have a high growth rate. Some of these areas are Arizona, Texas, and California. 

Peanut cacti are susceptible to rot, and they need to be watered only when the top inches of the soil are extremely dry. You can use a stick and dip it into the soil, if some remnants of wet soil stick to it then don’t water the plant. 

Also, give it as much sunlight as possible as it prefers hot temperatures. 

6. Silver Torch Cactus 

A  Silver Torch Cactus.
Silver Torch Cactus, Image by Wikimedia

The Silver Torch Cactus which is also referred to as snow pole and wooly torch, is native to the mountain regions in Argentina and Bolivia. With a height of 3m/9.8ft, they have grey/green columns that are quite erect and slender with only 6cm/2.5inches across. 

Its scientific name is Cleistocactus strausii. The perfect soil is a highly-draining one. It requires strong sunlight but not high temperatures. Full sunlight is needed several hours a day for it to bloom. Surprisingly, it can withstand a frost of -10 °C. 

Naturally, it needs plenty of water during summer and none at all during the winter. Some of the older plants produce deep red and burgundy flowers in summer.  

7. Kingcup Cactus

A kingcup cactus.
Kingcup Cactus, Image by Natural History

Kingcup cactus is a species of the hedgehog cactus. Scientifically referred to Echinocereus triglochidiatus, it is native to northern Mexico and the southwestern United States. 

Some other commonly referred names are claret cup or Mojave mound cactus.

One distinct feature is that it forms a bulbous pile of hundreds of cylindrical stems. It is somehow wooly. 

The flowers, which are usually orange-red or scarlet red bloom up to 8-9cm wide in late spring. They prefer a little bit of moisture, some partial sunlight and porous soil that drain water quickly. 

8. Barbados Gooseberry

A barbados Gooseberry.
Barbados Gooseberry, Image by Waimea Nurseries

Some of its common names are blade-apple cactus, Barbados gooseberry, rose cactus, leaf cactus, and lemon vine. Scientifically, it is known as Pereskia aculeata. 

The cactus is native to tropical America. Its leaves and fruits are both edible as they contain iron, protein, among other nutrients. Unlike other cacti, this particular species has a vine that grows up to 10m/33ft tall. The stems are 2-3cm thick. 

Flowers of the Barbados gooseberry are either pink, white or cream with them being 2.5-5cm/0.98-1.97inches.  They are mostly outdoor plants because of their shrubby growth. Their preference is dry areas, and you don’t need to repot them regularly. 

When it comes to watering them, you need to be careful not to overwater. They’d rather be underwatered than excess water because the chances of rotting are higher. 

9. Queen of the Night Cactus

A queen of the night cactus.
Queen of the Night Cactus, Image by Tanqueverderanch

The Queen of the Night Cactus-Epiphyllum oxypetalum-is also referred to as Dutchman’s pipe cactus. 

Native to Southern Mexico and some areas of South America, it is a fast-growing plant that flowers late spring all through to summer. The stems are of two types; we have the primary stems that grow to be 6m long while the secondary stems are flat and grow 30cm x 10-12cm. 

They only bloom at night and wilt just before dawn. Flowers are usually white and have a sweet scent and are 30cm long by 17cm wide. Their fruits are purple-red. 

Make sure you feed them the morning sun but avoid the afternoon sun because their leaves can quickly get scorched. If possible, keep them under a shade. They prefer mild winters but hate overwatering.

10. Mexican Fence Post Cactus

A mexican Fence post.
Mexican Fence Post Cactus, Image by Palms4u

The Pachycereus marginatus is a slow-growing plant with a height of between 3.7m/12ft and 6.1m/20ft. The stems are 9-10cm/3-4inches in diameter. 

As it matures up, it grows numerous ‘arms.’ The name comes from the fact that in several Mexican homes, it’s used as a fence. 

The plant blooms in spring and produces red and yellow fruits with black seeds. You can plant it against the wall of your house. Mexican fence post cactus requires full sunlight with partial shade and porous soil. 

Water occasionally during the hot, dry months. 

11. Totem Pole Cactus

A Totem pole cactus.
Totem Pole Cactus, Image by Gardenista

The Pachycereus schottii f. Monstrosus is a smooth-skinned plant with no visible spines. It is a columnar cactus that grows 3.6m/12ft tall. It has small bumps that give the plant an overall look of a carved image. 

The plant is a night bloomer that produces light pink flowers that open in the evening and close by mid-morning. They produce red fruits that are egg-shaped and are edible. 

These plants are low maintenance and can practically grow even when left uncared for. They love a partial shade as opposed to direct sunlight. Ensure they are under a shade but shield it from extremely cold temperatures. You can even keep them inside during winter. 

Only water them on need-basis. 

12. Blue Candle Cactus

A blue candle cactus.
Blue Candle Cactus, Image by Plant Standaz

Also named whortleberry cactus and bilberry cactus, it is a large shrubby cactus that grows 4-5m in height. The stems have a diameter ranging 6-10cm. 

The flowers have a diameter of 2-2.5cm and are usually creamy white. The fruits are dark purple and are edible. This particular species is quite popular in Mexico for consumption. 

Don’t expose them to temperatures below 25°F as they may die. They are low-maintenance and always allow the soil to dry out before watering them. 

Its scientific name is Myrtillocactus geometrizans.

All the above species are all great. Some are low maintenance, while others require a bit of attention. Before choosing what you want, make sure you go through this list to ensure you make an informed decision.