Month: June 2020

Who doesn’t love growing things? Unfortunately, for many of us who don’t have a green thumb, it may be challenging to keep plants alive. However, a cactus is an example of one plant that is low-maintenance and is often recommended for new plant growers. But, even though cacti are easy to care for, you still need to remain mindful of how much water you give them, just like any other plant.

What are the signs that a cactus is overwatered? Five signs will let you know a cactus is receiving too much water:

1. Splitting
2. The skin of the cactus is mushy and puckered
3. Soil stays moist for too long
4. Cactus is starting to die in winter
5. Black/brown discoloration, especially at the base

Because cacti are very drought-tolerant, they need far less water than you think. The remainder of this article will discuss the reasons why these succulents do not need a lot of water, and signs that your plant may be getting too much water. With a few simple steps, you can still save your plant and get it to perk back up! 

Why does a cactus need limited water?

A cactus is part of the succulent plant family, which thrives on very little water by storing most of what they absorb beneath their skin. This is an adaptation for plants that evolved in low-water areas such as desserts or steppes. When they cannot rely on much water from the sky or the ground, they need to keep as much as possible to last them through the months-long dry seasons.

Cacti, specifically, are succulents that are covered in spines. These spines can be thick and large, small, and soft, and everywhere in between. They grow from areoles spaced out along the skin and serve several purposes, including helping cacti absorb every water droplet in receives.

Since the spines have 360 degrees of surface area, they can prevent water from running down off the plant and into the ground. Instead, they can direct the water to where it can be more easily absorbed by the cactus.

Another feature that helps keep the cactus hydrated is its waxy skin. This coating prevents moisture from leaving once it has been absorbed.

Cactus Roots

The cactus has a root system that is also specially designed for absorbing water. With a shallow and extensive root system, the plant doesn’t have to wait for the water to sink in too far before they get to it. This is especially important for desert-dwelling plants because rainfall is less likely to soak into the lower layers of dirt than it is to be evaporated by the hot sun and dry air.

Taproots aid in stabilizing larger columnar cacti. These also help the large cactus store even more water to support its massive size.

CO2 Intake

Another feature of cacti’s skin allows them to employ a unique breathing process. As we know, all plants intake carbon dioxide (CO2) and expel oxygen (O2). Typical plants do this during the daytime as part of photosynthesis, or the chemical process by which plants use light from the sun to synthesize foods from carbon dioxide and water.

Cacti do not breathe during the day because while this would allow CO2 to enter the plant, and would allow precious water to escape via transpiration. Instead, they use crassulacean acid metabolism(CAM), which means they reserve breathing for nighttime. To do this, the plant stores carbon dioxide in the form of malic acid until daylight. Then, it uses the CO2 for photosynthesis.

Because this entire process takes place during the late hours of the day when it is cooler and more humid, a cactus significantly reduces its water loss.

5 Signs Your Cactus Needs Less Water

As cacti are very slow growing, you may have invested a lot of time and effort into your little plant. Unfortunately, many of us kill our cacti with kindness, that is, by overwatering it.  This is the main culprit of a struggling house cactus. Fortunately, they are pretty good at letting you know when you are doing this.

So, pay attention to these signs, and you’ll be able to save your spiky friend!

1. Your cactus splits.
2. Your cactus is mushy and puckered.
3. Your soil stays moist for too long.
4. Your cactus is starting to die in winter.
5. Your cactus is turning black or brown, especially at the base.

1.     Your Cactus Splits

Maybe you forgot your cactus for a while, or you went on an extended vacation. When you came back, the soil looked super dry, so you dumped a bunch of water on it. The next thing you know, the cactus has a split in its skin.

This happens when a cactus takes up too much water at one time. Since these plants are highly efficient at absorbing and storing water, they pull in more water than other house plants. While they are designed to expand during times of rain, too much expansion can be harmful. This is what causes the split.

Also, when they have been dry for too long, the plant has likely contracted, specifically to survive its arid conditions. You’ll want to reintroduce water slowly to your plant to allow it to expand and grow at its own rate, especially if it’s been a long time since its last watering!

But don’t worry! Splitting does not cause long-term damage to the plant. Cacti have adapted to repair themselves from this kind of damage by creating a callus and sealing off the area. Just continue watering lightly, and your plant should grow as usual.

To learn more about cacti splitting, check out this YouTube video by Desert Plants of Avalon.

2.    Your Cactus is Mushy & Puckered

The problem with puckered succulent leaves or cacti is that it can be attributed to too little or too much water.

A healthy cactus will be plump and firm because of the water stored inside it. These stores are used as reserves for times when new water is scarce. As the cactus dries out, it will begin to tap into these reserves to survive. If it draws too much from them, the skin begins to pull inward as water volume is lost. This is a sign of too little water and usually happens at the bottom of the plant first.

Conversely, if the cactus absorbs too much water, then the storage space will run out. As water is stored in the cells of the plant, these cells will burst if too full, and the plant will literally fall apart from the inside out. This results in a puckered and mushy plant.

Therefore, you should make sure to pay attention to your watering habits to determine if you are under- or over-watering your cactus. To remedy this, ease into adding more water or decreasing watering time slowly so as not to shock the plant too much.

Do you think one of these things is happening to your plant? If you’re not sure what you should be looking for in terms of mush or puckering, check out the photos in this article from Pistils Nursery. There are good examples of what these signs usually look like.

3.    Your Soil Stays Moist for Too Long

While you may be tempted to use standard potting soil or compost for your new cactus, this should be avoided. Regular potting soil is designed to hold moisture close to the plant. This is because other houseplants are not as good at quickly absorbing water as cacti. 

Cacti are gluttons for water. That is, they soak up as much water as quickly as possible. This is because the soil in which these plants are found is naturally poor and arid. Any rainfall is not likely to stick around long—whether it drains by runoff or disappears by evaporation. This means the cactus needs to get it before it’s gone.

Therefore, if the soil stays wet around the roots for too long, your cactus will keep drinking it until it oversaturates itself; it doesn’t know when to stop! And worst yet, this oversaturation could lead to root rot and other problems.

To prevent this, you can change your potting medium to a specially-designed cactus soil that is coarse and low in nutrients. This soil tends to be equal parts:

• Sand
• Soil
• Gritty mixture (pebbles or pot shards)

Some mixes even contain:

• Peat
• Pumice
• Coir
• Pearlite
• Limestone
• Coconut fibers

The necessity of these additional ingredients really depends on the type of cactus you have, so read the instructions carefully. For example, peat is useful if you live in a very arid climate. It is designed to hold moisture, but if you allow it to get too dry, it will not rehydrate well.

You can buy a commercial cactus mix or make your own, but the benefit of this mixture is that it will drain faster and encourage evaporation. Once you’ve changed the potting medium, make sure to let it dry out thoroughly between watering. And don’t forget to empty the drainage saucer if there is one!

4.   Your Cactus is Starting to Die in the Winter

You may be thinking that your cactus is dying because you are currently in the coldest months of the year. While these plants do love warm temperatures and sun, since they are desert-dwellers, they are no stranger to chilly nights. So, if you keep your cactus indoors and it’s not directly near a cold window, it’s unlikely that the winter weather is causing it to die.

As with all plants, cacti go semi-dormant or dormant in the winter. Their growth slows considerably, and their soil generally does not dry out as fast. This means they generally need less water than in the summer months. Therefore, if you have kept up the same watering schedule even as the days grow shorter, you may be watering your cactus too often.

All plants, in general, need less water over the winter, and cacti are no exception. While you may water your cactus once a week in the summer (or more if you give it outside time in the hot sun), that may be too much for the winter. Try to simulate the cactus’s natural habitat.

Most plant experts recommend only watering the cactus two or three times during the entire winter season. And when you do, make sure to follow tip number one above and not give it too much water at one time!

5.    Your Cactus is Turning Black or Brown

Discoloration can also be another sign of either under- or over-watering. It is essential to know the difference between different shades and textures that may appear as a result of how you water your cactus.

For a cactus that is too dry, it may be turning brown and crispy at the tips. These look like callouses or sunburns. If this is your cactus’ symptom, try giving it more water and over time, the plant will heal its damage. But make sure the soil is fully draining!

On the other hand, if the leaves or stems are turning black or dark brown, that could be a sign of root rot because of overwatering. These dark spots usually occur at the bottom of the plant or on the lower leaves/appendages. They are soggy and can even be oozing or leaky. This means that your plant has so much water that it’s now collected in the roots.

If you suspect this is the case, gently pull your succulent out of its pot and examine the root base.  If the root network is expansive and looks healthy, then your plant may survive. Repot it in fresh, dry soil and decrease your watering.

If the roots look dead or blackened, then your succulent is in trouble. It is most likely that you will need to try to salvage its healthier sections in order to keep it growing well.

Not sure if your cactus is experiencing root rot or dryness? Check the photo examples from this article on Pistils Nursery to compare your plant to.

Saving Your Cactus from Overwatering

So, what if you have changed the potting medium and readjusted your watering routine, but your cactus still seems sad, and you notice continued mushy spots or dark patches? This may mean your cactus has developed some type of rot, which is slowly spreading through the rest of the plant. Plants cannot heal already rotted flesh, so if you notice these spots, it is best to remove them if at all possible.

Removing Rot from the Top

If the damage is at the top of your cactus, you have a better chance of saving it. Take a sharp, clean knife and dig out the damaged tissue gently. Allow the hole to dry out and heal over. Make sure not to water the plant from above to prevent moisture and bacteria from getting into the wound.

If you give it time, the plant should callous over, and while now looking a little scrappier, it should continue to grow and get healthier!

Removing Rot from the Roots

If you suspect root rot, this is a more difficult problem to tackle. It is possible to save the plant, but it will take extra care and even a little luck.

• Determine if any healthy roots are left. First, remove the plant from its soil and inspect the roots. If all of them are blackened, limp, or broken off, your plant may not survive. However, if any are still viable, you may try to replant it.
• Separate the dead tissue. Remove any infected tissue and all surrounding soil from the cactus.
• Wash the roots thoroughly. This will remove any remaining diseased soil or rot from around the roots.
• Repot in sterile soil. Plant the cactus in a fresh batch of potting medium, ensuring that its amount and type is suitable for your cactus. This is also an excellent time to check your pot size, making sure it’s not too large or too small.

Root a Cutting

If you determine that the roots of your cactus are no longer viable, you may still be able to root a cutting. Depending on the plant, if there is a healthy part still left, you can cut that piece off from the rest and help it grow new roots.

First, allow the cutting to callous over for a couple of days before placing it in the soil. When planting, make sure to bury it at least an inch into the medium so it can begin to root. While this process may take weeks, you should see a brand-new, healthy baby cactus that is quite similar to the parent plant!

Conclusion

While over-watering can be a death sentence for your little cactus, it doesn’t have to be.  Paying attention to the signs above, and catching them early enough, will allow you to save your succulent just in time. If you follow these simple tips, you and your new houseplant can celebrate many great years together!

The Christmas cactus, hailing from Brazil, is a beautiful plant that blooms a light red and white flower. Also known as the Schlumbergera, its beautiful color scheme makes it the perfect natural addition to your holiday season decorations. However, these plants need to be purchased and cared for long before Christmas Eve.

What are the most important things to remember when caring for your Christmas cactus?

• Cooler temperatures
• Humidity is good, but too much watering is bad
• Balance daylight and nighttime
• Special fertilizer only used at the right time
• Prune yearly
• Monitor for and remove insects
• Displaying area is different from growing area

Let’s explain those steps in more detail and then discuss your additional options.

Steps to Prepare Your Christmas Cactus for the Holiday Season

Just keep in mind as you go through these points that a plant is a living thing, not a product out of a factory. As such, do not be afraid to tinker with these instructions ever so slightly. Christmas cacti especially are used to a little disruption. Use your judgement and a little tender loving care to keep your plant happy and satisfied.

Cooler Temperatures

The Christmas cactus is native to the jungles in Brazil, where it grows adjacent to larger trees and under their canopies. As such, they like average temperatures ranging from 65 degrees to 75 degrees. They can be outside in the summer, but keep them under some sort of balcony roof or awning to avoid direct sunlight. Prolonged sunlight can burn them, causing a yellowing color and preventing bloom later in the year.

To time a proper bloom exactly right, your Christmas cactus will need to be placed in cooler temperatures for about 12 hours a day starting in late September to early October. That way they will start to bloom 8 to 10 weeks later in early December. If you live in a temperate climate, leaving your plant outside should work just fine as long as you monitor weather fluctuations. Too cold and it will develop frost, which will kill the plant.

On the other hand, if a hot day pops up in October, bring it inside into the air conditioning. In general, 55 to 60 degrees should do the trick. If you live in a desert or tropical climate, place your Christmas cactus in your basement or at least a closed off closet during this time.

Humidity vs Watering

Here is where it becomes tricky. The Christmas cactus is technically not a cactus, as it does not grow in the desert. Being from the tropics, this plant likes it humid. However, liking humidity does not mean that it likes being watered all the time. In fact, the Christmas cactus name in derived from the fact that it rarely likes to actually be watered. If this plant were a guy at a Florida resort in July, he would sit under an umbrella outside by the pool all day but never jump in the water.

How do you keep something humid without watering it? It is easier than you might think. If you already live in a humid climate, putting the plant outside is obviously the best thing you can do. If not, follow these steps:

1. Find a small, shallow tray just larger than the bottom of cactus’s pot. A plate is too shallow, but something like a frisbee or garden stone with ridges will do fine.
2. Fill it up with small stones, enough so that they sit just above the ridge.
3. Fill that tray with water.
4. Place the Christmas cactus on top of the rocks.

By using this method, you are not watering the plant. However, the water in the tray will very slowly evaporate through the pot and around it past the leaves, keeping the plant reasonably humid. Check on the water every so often and fill up the tray again as necessary.

That being said, it is not like a Christmas cactus never wants water. Check on it once a week to see if there is any significant drying out in the soil or yellowing in the leaves. It will generally need water once every 1 to three weeks. Still a lot less often then your common florist bouquet.

It is also important to adjust watering patterns depending on the season. Once a week or so is great in the Spring and Summer. But the Christmas cactus will only bloom if it feels like it needs to. Frankly, if it feels like it is dying needs to reproduce. In the fall, you definitely want to dial it back to 2 or 3 weeks.

Daylight and Nighttime

Outside of blooming preparation, a Christmas cactus’s relationship with sunlight is mostly average. They can sit outside or in the windowsill (temperature permitting). Again, just avoid too much direct sunlight. If you need to choose though, err on the side of too much sunlight over not enough.

Blooming preparation, starting in September, is when it becomes more complicated. Along with cooler temperatures, the Christmas cactus also needs 12 to 14 hours a day of complete darkness. The plant will attempt to look for more sunlight somewhere, hence it will start to bloom. Make sure it receives a healthy amount of sunlight during the day, and then at night move it into complete darkness. Artificial light still counts as light, unfortunately. Try one of these options to make sure it gets adequate amount of “sleep”:

• Put it in your basement
• Place it delicately in a closed closet or room by itself
• If it is too big to move from outside, put a tarp or thick sheet completely over the top of it so that all leaves are covered.
• Later in the season, when nighttime lasts a lot longer, simply placing it in your backyard (away from car lights and such) works well. Again, if you are keeping it outside, beware of frost.

Fertilizer

We already know how picky the Christmas cactus is with water. What about fertilizer? That is quite a different story. As long as it is used correctly, fertilizer is a beneficial and necessary ingredient to help your plant do well. But keep it out of the bloom season, as this could be detrimental by interfering with the timing of that process.

During the spring and summer, it is recommended to add fertilizer to your Christmas cactus about once a month. This time of the year is the growing season, so any help is beneficial. In fact, fertilizer will even help you better align your plant’s annual overall rhythm of growth and bloom. Use one with a high rating on its middle number, like 8. Try one of these fertilizers:

• Tiger Bloom: This simply works for a fair price and is recommended by top horticulturists. Particularly useful in promoting budding in the Fall
• Miracle-Gro: You probably already know Miracle-Gro from your lawn fertilizer. Well they specialize in houseplants too. It is not specialized to cacti specifically, but it works.
• Jacks Classic: Cheaper than the rest but will still keep those leaves looking green and the rest of the plant strong throughout the year.

Pruning

You really do not need to be cutting back your Christmas cactus, even during all-out growth season. This could be even worse during budding season because you will be losing tiny buds that are still not completely visible. Remember, this plant is used to growing in treacherous conditions. It is used to finding whatever space it needs to survive. Not pruning will never affect the health of your plant.

However, Christmas cacti can live up to 30 years, meaning they will eventually become too large. Or they may even start growing uneven or otherwise just become unsightly in some way. If you need to prune your Christmas cactus, it is rather easy: just cut on the skinny piece in between two leaf segments. The plant practically marks it for you.

You can cut up to one third off of your Christmas cactus without disturbing its health or growth rate. Also, do not overdo it: you should only be pruning it roughly once a year. After you prune, save a handful of leaf segments! More on that later.

Watch for Bugs

Let’s face it. After everything you have read so far, especially concerning darkness and lack of watering, it sure is tempting to just put your Christmas cactus in your spare bedroom and shut the door. See you in two weeks. Not a good idea. You should at least go in once a day and check on your plant. It could need more water in its humidity tray. But most importantly, you also need to watch for bugs.

Insects could be infesting their way inside the pot without you even noticing. If this happens, your dream of a beautiful Christmas cactus adorning your living room by the fireplace could die in September. Look out for:

• Root mealybugs
• Flower thrips
• Fungus gnats

If you see any of these, prune off the infected area and discard it so it hopefully does not infect the rest of the plant. Then use an insecticide that is safe on plants. Be sure to avoid overwatering because that is usually the main attractor of bugs. Also keep your Christmas cactus in a thinner, breathable pot so it dries faster.

Display Area

So far, we have almost exclusively discussed placing your Christmas cactus in cold dark rooms or on balconies. The problem is we do not usually roast marshmallows and open presents in a closet. You are obviously going to have to move your plant into a prominent spot in your living room. During the holiday season, it is time for this beautiful plant to shine. Here are some tips on displaying your Christmas cactus:

• Unlike its holiday plant colleague, the poinsettia, it is not poisonous to cats and dogs. No worries there.
• Keep it up on an end table though so your pets do not poke at its semi sharp edges. You do not want the kids pulling apart something that took a year to bloom either.
• If there is less sunshine in your living room, just try to keep it as close to the window as you can. Do not forget that more darkness is better this time of year anyway.
• Avoid the fireplace. Smoke is bad for the plant. And obviously fire is not great either.

Propagating

If your Christmas cactus is in its twenties and has begun to see better days, it might be time to get a new one. Luckily for you, there is no need to buy a new one because you can make one yourself! Grab those leaf segments from before and follow these steps:

1. Leave the segments out on a dry surface for a few days so that they dry and the tips heal
2. Assemble a new pot (6 inches in diameter is fine for a now) filled with soil mix. This soil is purposely coarse to allow for plenty of aeration. Here is a list of our favorite and recommended soil mix (Here).
3. Place three or four leaves in the soil for their old cut stems down. They should all be buried about halfway. Keep a handful to the side in case the leaves in the pot do not take.
4. Follow normal care. Pay extra attention to humidity.
5. In about two weeks, growth will occur. Together they will have a brand-new root system.

Where to Buy Your Christmas Cactus

If you do not have a Christmas cactus at all and do not have a way of acquiring a few leaves, you will need to buy one. Before you do, buyer beware: a lot of “holiday cacti” are not actually Christmas cacti. Plenty of companies try to sell the Thanksgiving cactus, which looks similar and is a lot easier to grow, and pretend it is a Christmas cactus. Further troubling is that some people try to sell imitation plants in the place of all holiday cacti! Make sure you are buying from a reputable source like one of the following.

Amazon

We have come a long way from buying our favorite books on Amazon. Believe it or not, Amazon has a huge selection of live plants. The Christmas cactus is no exception. There are a few varieties to choose from, all of which are typically fulfilled locally. If they cannot be fulfilled locally, they are shipped with careful climate-controlled means. Be careful though, as that will probably increase shipping charges. Here are a few ideas:

• Hirt’s Gardens– $15 is not bad for a plant ready to go and already in a 4 inch pot
• American Plant Exchange– This is really a larger co-op network of sellers who bid together for simplified pricing. Comes in a larger pot.
• JM Bamboo– Similar to the Hirt’s Gardens one but better quality and bigger price

Your Hardware Store

You may know your local hardware store as just a good place to buy your favorite gardening tools. While that is true, plenty of them have branched out into floral selections as well. Home Depot and Lowes in particular have vary large gardening sections, often located outdoors, which feature everything you will need to start growing your plant. And of course, the plant itself. Check in to your local store usually around August or September, when the holiday decorations start moving in, and that will typically be when they will have the Christmas cactus in stock. That would be the perfect time to pick it up for your first year, as that is the start of blooming season.

Local Florist

The most convenient option for many of us is just going to our local florist. Even though they will have a much larger flower selection, they still might not have the Christmas cactus in stock before September. Many people believe certain things should be bought in person, not online, so you can examine quality before you buy. And when it comes to quality, nothing beats buying from your local florist and bringing the plant home that same day.

Cacti for Other Holidays

There are a couple cacti out there for other holidays besides Christmas. There is the Thanksgiving cactus, as previously mentioned, and also the Easter cactus. They are in the family as the Christmas cactus, but have slightly different properties and care practices. Let’s go through those in case you are thinking of keeping the cactus trend going year-round. It is also a good idea to know these things, so you are not bamboozled on your next Christmas cactus purchase.

Thanksgiving

The Thanksgiving cactus is often used as an imitation of Christmas cactus. It is similar in color and appearance. It also is more abundant and therefore cheaper to sell at a markup. However, you will be able to tell the difference.

The Thanksgiving cactus has leaves that are pink and white, not red and white. If you are buying the plant when it has already budded, that will be a dead giveaway. If not, take a look at the leaves. The Thanksgiving cactus leaf has hooked edges, almost like lobster claws. A Christmas cactus should have smaller and smoother edges.

In addition, pay careful attention to the directions. When they tell you to start the budding process in late July or early August, you will know something is up. These plants are designed to blossom a month before the Christmas cactus, in time for Thanksgiving. So naturally they need to start the budding process a month earlier.

Easter

The Easter cactus is a lot different. Although it comes from a similar area in brazil, it is prone to more of a forest environment than a nature one. Also, with its bright pink or even orange colors, there is no way you would get it confused with a Christmas cactus.

As the name suggests, the growth cycle is radically different too, which allows it to bloom in the Spring right around Easter. Caretaking for this plant is similar to the Christmas cactus, just moved later in the year. You will want to start the blooming period back in November if you can, since it might be too cold and too dark during the deep winter. Not enough sunlight at all means more time to get to full bloom. Watering and moisture stay the same. It should also go without saying that the Easter cactus should not be outside during the winter. You can bring outside in the early Spring, weather permitting.

Diseases and How to Avoid Them

Like humans, plants can also become ill. The Christmas cactus, unfortunately, is no exception. The diseases that commonly affect this plant are:

1. Basal Stem Rot
2. Botrytis Blight
3. Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus

1. Basal Stem Rot

Basal stem rot occurs when fungus builds up around the roots. This may not be outwardly noticeable since you will not see any fungus on the plant or the pot. However, the plant will start to grow slower than it should. If you have other Christmas cacti, it will clearly be smaller than them. It will also start to miss important benchmarks. Even, most critically, the start of blooming season.

How does this happen? Too much water. If you do not overwater, you do not have to worry about basal stem rot. But if it is already happening, you may need to consult an expert.

2. Botrytis Blight

On the other hand, Botrytis Blight is completely noticeable on your Christmas cactus. At first the leaves and flowers will wilt. Then a fuzzy blue fungus will grow. To prevent this, make sure you do not go overboard on the humidity. Keep a close eye on your cactus. If this begins to happen, immediately cut off any infected leaves.

3. Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus

Like we mentioned before, you should be routinely inspecting for insects on or in your Christmas cactus. Insects, after all, do more than eat your plant. They also carry disease! One infection carried by insects that is perhaps the most detrimental to plants is called Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. The symptoms include:

• Leaves turning purple or off-color
• Wilting
• Stunted growth
• Spots on both the leaves and the flowers

Unfortunately, there is no easy cure to Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. Insecticide will not help because the damage is already done. Not to mention the virus usually dives deep into buds and inside stems. The best you can do is cut off the infected area and hope enough of the virus is removed.

4. Phytophthora Root Rot

Phytophthora Root Rot has symptoms very similar to the other diseases. That makes it really hard to diagnose to the untrained eye. Leaves turning yellow will be quite common. However, before you decide to start cutting off stems, cut into the them just a little bit. Take a look at the color. Reddish brown discoloration in the stem is the biggest indicator that the problem in your Christmas cactus is down below in the roots, not the leaves and stems.

Luckily, this problem is quite fixable. It usually occurs from the water not being able to drain properly. Try switching to a thinner pot that allows the soil and roots to dry out faster.

Other Holiday Plants

The Christmas cactus is not the only plant for the holidays. Consider purchases one of the following to fill out the décor of your holiday living room.

Poinsettia

The poinsettia is the most famous of all Christmas plants with its appropriately green and red colors. Buy a couple of these and place them next to your Christmas cactus for an inspired look. Just make sure you keep them off the floor, as they are dangerous to eat for your dog or cat.

Like the Christmas cactus, take care not to over water your poinsettias either. Also, if you want to keep it for next year, place it in your windowsill and water only occasionally. Pruning can be done liberally, and fertilizer can be given every two weeks.

Cyclamen

The cyclamen has a similar green and red color scheme. However, the bud is decidedly rounder and dainty, for a softer feel. It can also bloom for an impressive eight weeks, which well comfortably take you from right after Thanksgiving through New Year’s Day, if you time it right. They also handle colder temperatures a lot better. Do not put them outside on a frigid day, but you can leave a cyclamen on your balcony well into early December.

Amaryllis

The Amaryllis is more of a flower than a full plant, but it is pretty nonetheless. These come in all red or all white. There are sometimes ones that produce both color flowers, made by planting both in the same pot of soil. The Amaryllis nicely fills up any leftover space on your holiday display and looks good adjacent to your Christmas cactus.

If you enjoyed the show, you do not have to toss this flower out after New Year’s. Although it may look dead, you can always store the bulb in a cool dark place and replant it next year.

If you are looking for a low-maintenance plant that you can keep inside or outside of your home, a cactus is a great option. These plants are easy to care for and require little expertise on your part to keep them growing and thriving. More importantly, they are resilient should they begin to weaken; you can usually bring them back with a little TLC and making sure you’re watering them correctly.

How do you know your cactus needs more water? Water, both too much and not enough, can be a massive problem with your plant. Some signs of underwatering are:

1. Different, dryer texture
2. Puckering
3. Visual changes
4. Watering that’s not adjusted according to the season
5. Improper potting mix

In this article, we will discuss these signs that your cactus needs more water in detail and what you can do to remedy this before it is too late. Unfortunately, many cactus owners believe since the plants are from dryer environments, they can go without water for an extended period. However, your cactus still needs to be watered regularly.

The Importance of Watering Your Cactus

Before we jump into the signs that a cactus is underwatered, let’s talk about the importance of watering your plant regularly regarding its health. The main thing that sets cacti and similar succulents apart from other plants is their ability to store water for a relatively long period. Cacti plants have specialized cells in their stem that help them hold onto water when there is excess available.

These cells are designed to soak up water during downpours while in the desert but can also be beneficial for plants even in your home. When you water your plant, the cells will absorb water until every cell is fully hydrated. As time progresses, the plant will use water stored in the cells, which will reduce the hydrostatic pressure inside the plant.

If your plant’s water reservoir has not been exhausted, the cactus will continue to prefer dry and airy soil. However, should the plant run out of water in its cells, this can turn into an issue. Ideally, you will offer it more water when it begins to run low internally, but this is not always the case. Should the plant go for an extended period without you replenishing the water, it can be detrimental to its health.

How to Tell if Your Cactus Needs More Water

Luckily, if you are new to the cactus world, it can be easy to tell if your cactus needs more water. If, at any point, your plant begins to look a little off to you or even seems to be dying, you can almost guarantee there is something off with it internally. While underwatering may not always be the case, it is a common issue.

If you cannot remember the last time that you watered your plant, or you do not have a good water schedule in place, the problem could easily be a lack of watering. Some of the easiest signs to spot or things to look for when it comes to your plant are:

1 – The Feel of Your Plant

It may seem a little less than intelligent for you to squeeze your cactus to see how it feels, but the physical touch of the plant will alert you to the first signs of water issues. When your cactus has been freshly watered, it will be in what is called a “hard body stage.” Essentially this means that when it is fully hydrated, it should feel a little firmer or harder.

If you know that your plant has been watered recently, you can wear some protective gloves and give it a gentle squeeze to see how this feels. If you notice that the plant has started to soften due to a loss of water pressure, you can touch it to see the difference in physical feel. You should also note that a well-hydrated plant springs back quickly when squeezed, while a dry plant will not spring back as quickly, like a dehydrated human.

If you notice that your cactus feels excessively soft in some areas, this could be a sign of deeper problems. If your plant is softening unevenly and is very weak or even discolored in some spots, this is a sign of root rot. This is a deeper problem that you will want to address and deal with, as it can be fatal to the plant.

2 – Dehydrated Plants Will Begin to Pucker

Most cacti that have not been appropriately watered will begin to pucker, and this is an easy sign to look for. Healthy cactus plants will look plump and fleshy due to their stored water. However, if water is not offered to them at regular intervals, it will cause the flesh to shrivel and pucker.

You will often see that the puckering begins in the lower areas and then works its way up the plant. Ideally, you will supply the plant with enough water to bounce back before the entire plant has shriveled and puckered. In addition to the shriveling, you may also notice a small amount of discoloration such as a brown, dry, or calloused flesh.

Usually, once you notice this puckering, you can give your plant a drink of water, and they will be fine. Of course, you always want your cactus to be in a well-drained soil designed for succulents so that they do not become overwatered. If you catch them quickly enough, you will find that they should bounce back like new in no time.

3 – Look for Other Visual Changes

When a cactus is adequately hydrated and growing properly, it will stand at its full height and form. This is the classic cactus shape that you are used to seeing and is a clear sign of health. However, when there is a lack of water, you will be able to note some physical changes that are easy to see and diagnose.

Some cactus plants will literally fold in half when they are underwatered but will spring back to life when appropriately watered and hydrostatic pressure returns. Of course, any wrinkly skin, drooping leaves, sagging, or an overall change in shape can mean there is low moisture. Some other common visual changes you should note are:

• The skin will become dry when there is a lack of moisture, or all water reservoirs are used.
• They can become discolored due to insufficient water. They can turn a pale color or even become brown when dehydrated.
• The weight of the pot they are in can feel lighter than when they are well watered.
• The plant can start wilting, and the leaves will begin to droop.
• The plant will begin to wither when all the water is used.

While seeing your plant go through these physical changes can be difficult to see, it is often easy to restore them to their normal health. You will want to give your plant a thorough watering when you notice any of these signs. You should see that they revert to a healthy appearance within a day or two.

4 – Consider the Season

One thing that many forget when it comes to their cactus is that the difference in seasons can lead to a difference in water needs. Just like in the wild, your plant will need a change in watering patterns depending on the seasons. If your plant begins to look a little weak, you will want to pay attention to the season and make differences in your watering schedule accordingly.

Some basics to keep in mind when it comes to seasonal watering are:

• Fall – Your fall months will differ slightly depending on where you live, and you will want to adjust accordingly. If you live in a relatively warm climate during the fall, above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, you will want to water once weekly. If you live in an environment with a colder fall, watering can be a little more sparing.
• Winter – During winter, your cactus will just need an occasional watering because most are dormant during this period. They often stop growing with a drop in temperatures and will not need to be watered as regularly.  A typical watering pattern during these dormant months is once a month.
• Spring – The spring showers can help serve as a guide towards your watering schedule. You will want to water the plants weekly to help wake them up from their dormant winter state. They will need a little extra water to survive and thrive during this period.
• Summer – The summer months are the most critical for water as the hot temperatures tend to dry out the soil. If you have your cactus near an overly sunny window, you may need to water it even more often as they will dry out more quickly. You will want to physically check the soil to see if it feels too dry or wet, watering about two to three times a week.

5 – Check the Potting Mix

One of the easiest ways to determine that your cactus needs water is to check the soil that it is in and water accordingly. A rule of thumb that most cactus owners follow is if the soil is completely dried out, the plant needs proper watering. However, you need to learn more about checking the pot for dryness and how to do so.

Some easy ways to check the potting soil of your cactus for dryness and to see if watering is needed are:

• Use a stick or skewer to gently push into the potting mix, making sure you reach the bottom of the pot. Leave the stick in place for a few seconds before removing it. If it looks of feels damp, the plant is well watered, and no more water should be needed. If the stick comes out dry, adding water is best.
• Poking your finger into one of the drainage holes is another good indicator. You will want to poke the bottom of the container and feel for any moisture. If the area feels dry, add water and, if not, leave the plant alone.
• You can use your finger to poke into the topsoil and feel for moisture as well. Of course, you want to be careful of any spines that may be present in the lower areas of the plant. If the soil feels damp and clings to your finger, the plant should not need watering.

Of course, you always want to pick a potting mix that works well for your cactus and is fast draining. There are many soils out there that are explicitly designed for cacti and succulents, making them the best choice for your plant. You always want to ensure that the soil is dry before adding more water to the pot.

If you have several cacti plants, you may want a more proper way of checking the soil to ensure that it is ready for watering. There are tools called moisture meters that can check the level of dryness in mixes. These devices record the soil moisture content, and you will be able to tell when watering is needed, but it often takes a more expensive meter to get an accurate reading.

Design a Good Watering Schedule

The best way to ensure that your plant is not under-watered is to establish a good watering schedule from the start. How much water your plant needs depends on the type of cactus that you are growing as no two cacti species are the same. To truly take care of your plant, you will want to do more in-depth research into the specific cactus that you have and how it should be cared for. Some things to consider are:

• The type of plant you have
• The average growing season for your plant
• The typical temperature, soil, and conditions they naturally grow in
• The conditions you are currently growing your plant in

If you do not know the type of cactus you have purchased, you can look on the container if it is still in the original. Most containers will have the plant species listed somewhere on the outside. You can also do a quick Google search of common household cacti and find which one most resembles your own.

If all else fails, you can take your plant or a photo of the plant to a local nursery for help. If you have owned the plant for a while, you may be able to take it to the original place of purchase to learn more about the type you purchased. You can even ask for expert advice on caring for the plant.

General Guidelines for Watering Your Cactus

While each cactus is different, there are some similarities between the different types that you can keep in mind. A basic guideline that you can follow when it comes to watering your plant are:

• As mentioned, always let the cactus’ soil dry out between watering. The top couple of inches of soil should be thoroughly dried out. You can follow the previously mentioned methods to see if the soil is adequately dry.
• Keep the seasons in mind! Do not forget the seasonal watering changes previously discussed as plants need more water during the hot season and less during the dormant months. During the summer months, water at least once a week!
• If your plants are indoors, they will need more water than cactus plants that have been placed outdoors.
• Many plants that rest in a semi-dormant state during colder months need much less water or even none. If you have outdoor plants, they may need no extra watering during this phase. You will want to monitor the plant’s appearance for signs of watering needs.
• Always watch for the signs that we discussed and give the plant a thorough watering should you notice any puckering, wilting, bending, deflation, or color changes. Make sure to water them effectively and do not overwater the plant. Too much water can be just as bad as too little, if not worse.
• If you live in an area that has hard water, you may want to repot your plant regularly, and this can become an issue. Hard water can lead to a build-up of salt.
• Always ensure that your cactus’ pot is well-drained so that water does not build up. Improper drainage can cause the plant to get waterlogged and lead to root rot.

Ensure You Are Watering Your Plant Correctly

Now that you have a better idea of how often you should water your plant and what to look for when a plant is under-watered, you will want to ensure that you are watering it correctly. A good method to stick to for the majority of the year is to water your cactus once a week. However, you want to make sure that you are also watering your plant correctly.

The basic steps to watering your cactus are:

1. You want to always provide a good amount of moisture without leaving too much water in the soil. Always soak the roots, but not so much that can lead to root rot.
2. When it is time to water your plant, you will want to do so until the soil is saturated. A good sign of saturation is when water slowly drips out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
3. If you are watering an outdoor cactus, you will want to check the ground around the plant to ensure the soil is moist. You can also use a water gauge to ensure the soil is moist enough.

Some argue that watering your cactus from above is not the best option though it may be the easiest. When you use this method, the water will travel down the edge of the soil and to the bottom, which does not allow excess to get absorbed. This is why many plants develop rot at the soil line.

If you have the available amount of space and time, a great option is to set the cactus pot in a pan of water so the plant can pull water in from the bottom rather than the top. This allows the soil in the pot to absorb as much water as possible. This also boosts the plant’s absorption rate, and the moisture will move up to the surface of the pot. After some time, you will want to take the container out of the water pan and let it drain.