Growing Tips

Cacti plants are known for their different shapes, sizes, and colors. While most of them are green, some are white and some purple.  One of the best things about these plants is that they do not need a lot of care to thrive.  But what happens when you realize your cactus has overgrown and isn’t looking its best?  Well, you cut it back and manage its size.

So, when do you need to cut back/prune your cacti plants?  Generally speaking, most cacti plants require little to no pruning because they grow slowly and will take many years before they become large.  However, overgrown plants can benefit from a bit of pruning to get rid of old stems.

Typically, you should consider pruning your cactus when it is crowded, suffering from top-bottom rotting, showing signs of pest infestation, and after blooming.  Before you start pruning your plant, you must have a clear target in mind. What do you want to achieve with the pruning?

If you are still confused about whether you should prune your plant or not, read on to find out everything you need to know. We cover the basics of cactus pruning and how you should do it right.

Can You Cut Back a Cactus Plant?

The simple answer is “yes.”  As mentioned above, there comes a time when you need to cut back your cactus plant to manage its size and avoid overcrowding. In some instances, pruning can also help save your plant from death (in case of top-bottom rotting and pest infestation).

However, you need to keep in mind that most cacti species really don’t need any form of trimming and shaping unless they have developed a huge limb that looks to tip your plant over. The only time that most gardeners are forced to cut back their cacti plants is when they are removing parts to root for new plants.

Cactus pruning, if done right, can enhance the overall appearance of your plant and prevent overcrowding which can increase the chances of pest infestation and disease. Overcrowding can also result in mildew and unhealthy plants.

Columnar cacti plants such as organ pipe cacti and totem pole cacti can get spindly or tall and require regular pruning to force thicker stems or lateral branching.

The Opuntia has flat pads that serve as the leaves. In such a case, you can remove some pads and use them to start new plants. This is still a form of pruning/ cutting back.

The other plants in the family of cactus such as the Christmas cactus produce flower stalks when blooming. These flower stalks become ugly when dead, and the only way of getting rid of them is by trimming your plant.

Although trimming serves different purposes, the most significant part of it is that you can always use the parts you cut back to start new plants.

Signs That You Need to Cut Back Your Cactus

Now that you understand some of the reasons why cactus pruning is essential, you need to know when to do it.  In this section, we discuss the top five signs that you need to prune your plant.

1. The plant has become too large

Although most cacti species grow slowly and never reach destructive heights, there are a few exceptions. Members of the jungle cactus family grow relatively fast and can become too huge when the growth conditions are right.

As a result, you may want to reduce your plant size when you notice that it is becoming too large or one side is growing much faster than the other, and you want it to be asymmetrical.

Typically, if you are pruning to reduce the size of the plant, consider cutting back the plant by at least a third each year. Regular pruning will eventually result in a slightly bushier plant with more spots for blooms to develop.

Keeping smaller sized plants makes things a little easier because you can position them anywhere in your house. You can fit them on your window sills without overcrowding the limited indoor space.

2. Pest infestation

While most cacti species have sharp spines that deter pests, certain types of pests can still find a way to your plant.  Some of the common pests that may attack your cactus include cactus bugs, mealy bugs, spider mites, cactus longhorn beetles, and scale insects.

Some of these insects multiply rapidly, and if you don’t take action to stop them early, the effect can be catastrophic. Most of them attack the stems, but others may find their way to the roots.

The moment you notice signs of pest infestation on your cactus, you need to take appropriate action to stop them.  If the pests are large, you can simply remove them by hand. But, if they are tiny such as the spider mites, you may be forced to call in a professional pest exterminator.

 The bad news is that some cacti pests are so tough and chemical-resistant such that even the most experienced pest exterminator won’t stop them.  If you have tried using an exterminator to get rid of bugs, but you don’t see results, pruning the affected part is the only solution.

Identify the part of the stem attacked by the bugs and carefully cut it back.  Make sure you prune all the affected sections of the stem to avoid re-infestation.

3. Top-bottom rotting

Rotting is a common cactus issue that you have to deal with promptly to save your succulent.  Rotting can start from the bottom (roots) and spread upwards to the stem. It can also start at the top and spread down.

When your cactus starts to turn brown and soft at the tip, you could be staring at tip rot, also known as cactus stem rot. Once your cactus starts rotting from the top, it won’t stop, and if you don’t act fast to save the plant, it will die.

Stem rot is caused by a fungus and pest infestation, or water penetrating through an open wound on the plant.  If your cactus is damaged in any way, it could be susceptible to stem rot.

Once you start noticing signs of stem rot on your plant, the most important thing you need to do is prune/ cut back all the affected sections of the stem to save the rest of the plant. If you don’t prune off the affected parts, the rot will continue to spread and eventually kill your plant.

Keep in mind that rot spreads pretty fast and you may not have a lot of time left to save the cactus. You can use pruning shears or a sharp knife to prune the affected sections of the stem.

4. The appearance of dead stalks after blooming season

The appearance of dead flower stalks just after the blooming season is another sign you need to prune your cactus. This is especially true for Christmas cacti that flowers massively.

Do not prune before the flowering season to avoid losing the precious blooms. However, once the blooming season is over, you may notice that the flower stalks left behind appear ugly. Take time and carefully cut them back to give your cactus a new look.

Apart from getting rid of the dead stalks, pruning after the flowering season will also make your cactus bushier which will eventually lead to the development of more blooms the next time the plant flowers.  Ensure you cut back all the dead stalks and unhealthy branches.

5. Cactus is getting too tall for its pot

Lastly, you should also consider pruning when you realize that your cactus plant is getting too tall for its pot. Ideally, you should repot your cactus every two or three years, but this is not always the case.

Therefore, if you realize that your plant is getting taller for its pot, consider pruning it so that it doesn’t topple over.  In most cases, plants grown in light plastic containers tend to grow taller and thin.  Reducing the plant to an appropriate height helps it to become thicker and healthy.

Keeping Safe While Cutting Back Your Cactus

Ensure you observe safety measures when pruning a cactus.  Wear protective clothing such as long pants, sturdy shoes, leather gloves, and a long-sleeved shirt. You should also put on protective eye glasses if you are pruning a prickly pear because the glochids can become loose and blown into your eye by the wind.

Make sure your gloves are waterproof to protect you against the milky sap, which might cause severe inflammation and irritation if it comes in contact with your skin.  You might also need a water-based marker to help you mark the exact sections of the stem you need to prune.

Final Thought

That is it about pruning/cutting back your cactus plant. Keep in mind that these succulents are quite dangerous, and you need to be careful while pruning.

Now that you have a complete guide on how and when to prune your cactus, it is time to put on your gear and get down to work. Always give your cacti plants the face-lift they deserve so that they look healthy and beautiful throughout the year.

Cacti are hardy plants that can survive and thrive with minimal care. In most cases, these succulents aren’t affected by too many issues.But it doesn’t mean your plant won’t experience any issues whatsoever. One of the common issues that affect cacti plants is drooping or a cactus falling over.  If you notice sections of your plant falling over, then it means it is stressed in some way, and you need to find out the cause as soon as possible.

So, why is my cactus falling over? Falling over is a sign of stress in cacti plants. Even though the plant may appear to be perfectly healthy, something could be ailing it and the sooner you find it out the better. Some of the leading causes of drooping in cacti plants include overwatering/underwatering, a plant potted in a container that is too large, weak roots/root rot, pest infestation, or lack of sufficient sunlight.

In this post, we discuss some of the common reasons why your cactus plant may be falling over and what you can do to save it. Remember the fact that the earlier you identify the problem and deal with it, the better.

So, let us get started

1. Underwatering

Let us start with one of the most common causes of this issue; underwatering. Typically, if you don’t water your plant sufficiently, it will start becoming too dry, and with time, it will start falling over. An underwatered cactus may also become dormant and purplish.

An underwatered cactus lacks sufficient water in its cells, which results in a relatively weak stem hence the falling over.

This problem is most likely to arise in winter when most people believe that they don’t have to water their cacti plants. While most cacti species don’t require watering during this period, ensure you keep your plant in relatively cool conditions if you will not be watering it.

Also, don’t abandon watering completely just because it is winter. Instead, reduce your watering and monitor how the plant responds to the change. If you have been watering once every two weeks, you can lower it to once every three or four weeks.

Keep in mind that underwatering in winter, especially when your plant is in a warm place, may lead to loss of roots. The more the plant loses roots, the more fragile and weak it is, leading to a wide range of issues, including drooping

2. Overwatering

Closely related to underwatering is overwatering. In fact, overwatering is a much bigger issue than underwatering because it is rampant and dangerous.

A typical cactus plant prefers airy and fast-draining soil. Generally, your potting mix must not be kept wet or waterlogged for too long because it can cause irreversible damage.

That is especially true during the winter season when temperatures fall to below freezing point. During this time, you should only water your cactus lightly and when it is absolutely necessary.  A good rule of thumb is watering once every five or six weeks.

Before you water your plant, always ensure that the potting mix is completely dry. You can check for soil dryness by sticking your finger into the container. If it feels wet, don’t water. You can also use a moisture meter to be 100% sure that you aren’t watering at the wrong time.

Overwatering causes root rot, which can result in drooping. Desert cacti are highly prone to root rot compared to jungle cacti. An overwatered plant will become soft, mushy, and may become brighter in color.

3. Pest infestation (Mealybug)

Sometimes, your cactus may start falling over due to pest infestation. If your plant looks weak, damaged, or has visible spots on its surface, it could be a sign of mealybug infestation.

These insects usually attack cacti plants and start sucking juice from the stem, leaving behind blemishes. If you don’t deal with these pests promptly, they can spread to every part of the plant, making it difficult to salvage the situation.

The good news is that you can easily kill mealybugs by hand. Alternatively, consider rinsing the plant with insecticidal soap or a concentrated solution of liquid dish soap and clean water. After rinsing the plant in the soap solution, let it sit for at least one day before rinsing it with clean water.

Avoid exposing the cactus to direct sunlight during this period to prevent sunburn. Remember that it may take several attempts to get rid of all the mealybugs because newly hatched bugs may not be killed with the first attempt.

4. Your Cactus is potted in a container that is too big

Another reason why your cactus may be falling over is that it could be potted in a container that is too big for it. These succulents don’t like being potted in large containers even if they have overgrown their current pots.

Choosing the right size container can play a critical role in ensuring that your plant is happy and healthy. Ideally, you want a container that will only allow a small amount of space from both sides. You also need to allow one or two inches on the bottom to provide roots with sufficient space to grow.

Monitor your plant’s progress closely and only repot when it is clear that it has outgrown its current container. A good rule of thumb is to repot once every two or three years.

However, if you are using tap water to keep your plant hydrated, consider repotting once every year because tap water is hard water and contains a lot of minerals that tend to accumulate in the potting mix pretty fast.  High quantities of these minerals can damage your plant and its roots.

When roots start sticking out of the container’s drainage holes, it is a sign that it is time to repot. Repotting must be done just before the growing season and avoid repotting your cactus when it is flowering.

5. Freeze damage

Most cacti species are native to deserts and other dry areas. This means that these plants are not accustomed to growing in cold climates that experience extremely low temperatures. Therefore, if temperatures drop to below freezing point even for a few hours, cacti plants can easily suffer freeze damage.

Exposed parts of the plant will start developing black spots, and within a few days or weeks, the black areas will dry out and start to droop.  If the freezing occurred only for a few hours, then the damage is most likely cosmetic, and your plant will eventually grow out of it.

Exposure to adequate sunlight, warmth, and proper watering will help your plant to overcome the problem quite easily. If your plants are growing outdoors, transfer them to spots that receive plenty of radiated heat at night, such as close to a wall.

If temperatures continue to drop, be sure to cover your cacti plants with a cotton sheet to provide additional warmth and protect them from frost damage. If they are potted, consider moving them indoors.

6. Lack of sufficient sunlight

Most cacti species require a lot of sunlight to thrive. Some cacti plants can even tolerate full sunlight without an issue. Just like other plants, these succulents require sunlight to photosynthesize.

Without sufficient sunlight, they won’t manufacture enough food leading to a significant imbalance in the metabolic process. Over time, the plant becomes weak and droopy because it lacks sufficient nutrients to sustain its metabolic process.

Each cactus plant has its own light requirements. Ensure you understand the light requirements of your plant and stick to the recommendations.

Generally, epiphytic cacti require more shade compared to desert cacti. Therefore, if you are growing such cacti indoors, consider positioning them on south-west and south-east facing windowsills. If you place them on a north-facing windowsill, you will need to provide more shade to avoid sunburn.

Significant differences in light and temperature can also cause your cactus to fall over. For instance, if the temperature inside your house is too high, but there is no light, your plant may start stretching out in search of light. Some of its parts may start falling over in the process.

This is the primary reason why you must always be careful with sudden temperature drops. For example, if you are taking your plants out after winter, you must be cautious with how you introduce them to the outside temperature. Make sure the process is slow and gradual to avoid problems.

Also, you should avoid watering your plant with cold water. Gardening experts say that you stand a good chance of achieving better results if you use lukewarm water.

Final Thought

Drooping is a relatively common problem that affects cacti plants. While there is no specific cause of the issue, a close inspection of your succulent can help you determine why it is falling over. 

Take time to assess how you have been treating your plant and you will find the answer. The secret to dealing with this problem is identifying the cause as early as possible and dealing with it before it gets out of hand.

There is no doubt cacti plants are pretty and vibrant, but they can also be picky. Unlike your average houseplant, cacti are quite selective with soil, which is one of the reasons why they are so special.  Whether you are a pro gardener or the new kid on the block, consider making your own cactus soil because it is cheaper than buying a commercial one and it is also super easy.

So, how do you make your own cactus soil? To make your own cactus soil, you will need a few ingredients: regular garden soil, perlite/pumice, coarse sand, gravel/lava rocks, and peat. You can purchase these ingredients at any home improvement store near you. Once you have the ingredients, measure and mix them appropriately.

For general cacti soil, you need to mix three cups of sand with three cups of regular soil and two cups of perlite or pumice. Combining the right amounts of ingredients is paramount to achieving desired compactness, aeration, and drainage.

In this post, we will take you through a step-by-step analysis of how to make your own cactus soil and how to achieve the best results. Read on to find out everything you need to know.

What Type of Soil Do Cacti Plants Need?

Before we dive into our DIY cacti soil recipe, you need to understand the type of soil ideal for these succulents.

Most cacti plants have thick, fleshy stems that are adapted to storing water. In other words, these plants are adapted to growing in hot and dry conditions. The plants are native to desert regions of North and South America, parts of Europe and parts of Africa.

Their unique ability to store water for prolonged times is one of their coveted adaptations to surviving in deserts. Since it rarely rains in deserts, these plants store water in their stems for use during the prolonged dry season.

Therefore, for cacti plants, their roots don’t absorb water regularly, which is backed up by the type of soil found in deserts. The soil is mostly sandy, and the dry conditions help water to drain quickly whenever it rains. These plants don’t sit on water for prolonged periods.

In a nutshell, cactus soil must be well-draining, non- compact and must have proper aeration. There is no alternative to this requirement. Keep in mind that cacti plants don’t love damp soil because it can lead to root rot, fungal diseases, and a host of other pests.

In fact, the biggest threat to cacti survival is root rot because it attacks the main channel for water absorption and can easily spread to the stem where water is stored. This leads to a weak and shriveled plant whose fate is almost sealed- death.

Therefore, if you are making your own cactus soil, you need to make sure you end up with good soil that will drain pretty quickly. Typically, loose and grainy soil is the perfect choice for growing cacti plants.

You should also ensure your soil has good aeration and is non-compact. The roots need to have sufficient space for breathing because it makes it easier for water and nutrient absorption. Non-compact soil doesn’t hold moisture for too long and aid the roots in breathing.

Lastly, avoid adding excessive nutrients to your cactus soil. Typically, cactus soil containing too many nutrients, especially nitrogen, may lead to brittle, lean, and unpleasant plants.  We are pretty sure you don’t want such kind of goofy-looking plants near your home.

Soil texture is critical for cacti plants

Different types of cacti plants require different types of soil to thrive. Although the soil might be similar, there will be differences in soil mixes for epiphytic, desert, and lithophytic cacti.

Apart from the specific soil ingredients we mentioned in our introduction, cacti plants require a specific soil texture and composition. It is critical to ensure your cactus soil remains loose and airy even when watering.

Avoid adding manure to your cactus soil because it can lead to the growth of fungus that cactus roots can’t fight. You should also avoid using any organic fertilizers for cacti except for epiphytic plants.

Maintain proper pH Levels in your cactus soil

Almost all types of cacti require slightly acidic soil to thrive, although some plants require higher acidity potting mix than others. Generally, you need to make sure the pH level of your cactus soil ranges between five and six.

The only exception is for button cacti that tend to do well in much more alkaline soil with pH levels of 6.5-7.

Potting mix with pH levels of less than four or higher than seven will kill your plant. This type of soil is not ideal for the survival of your cactus plant.  If you prepare your soil and realize that the pH is still too high, you can lower it by adding peat.

To determine the pH of your cactus soil, use a well-calibrated meter that measures moisture, light, and pH levels.

Benefits of Making Your Own Cactus Soil

Some of the most significant benefits of preparing your own cactus soil are that it is relatively cheaper than commercial soil, and you can control the ingredients.  Since you are in charge of everything, you can modify your soil recipe in different ways to get the perfect result that your plant will love.

Before we start, here is a list of our favorite and recommended soil mix (Here)

How To Make Your Own Cactus Soil- Ingredients

To make your own cactus soil, you will need a few ingredients discussed below. You can purchase most of these ingredients from your local plant or home improvement store.

1. Regular potting soil

Any type of regular potting soil will work fine as the base to prepare your own cactus mix. Feel free to use whatever you have at hand as long as it is fresh and sterile potting soil.

If you can get light, porous soil to use as the base, it will be great because that will make your work pretty easy. Avoid using heavy garden soils or potting soils that contain vermiculite or any other moisture control elements that helps the soil retain moisture for prolonged periods.

Keep in mind that your cacti plants require well-draining soil, not one that retains moisture for too long.  Therefore, you need to be careful when choosing a type of potting soil as the base because it will determine the outcome. 

2. Coarse sand

Cacti plants thrive in a porous sandy potting mix. So, adding some coarse sand to your regular potting soil is critical. Feel free to use any type of sand but ensure you achieve good drainage at the end. Consider purchasing coarse sand other than the fine stuff you might come across in your compound.

Don’t use sand from your garden, beach, or a traditional sandbox. That type of sand is not good enough, and it won’t help you achieve better results.

If you prefer, you can use poultry grit or turface instead of sand. Either of those serves as an excellent alternative to coarse sand in this recipe.

3. Perlite/pumice

Perlite is a lightweight organic soil addition. It is the white pieces that resemble Styrofoam that you see in commercial potting soils. The primary purpose of perlite is to prevent soil compaction and enhance the aeration. It also improves the drainage of your cactus soil.

In other words, perlite helps your soil drain faster, which is precisely what you are looking for in good soil. You can purchase perlite and pumice at your local plant/home improvement store. It is usually in the same section as commercial potting mix for sale.

If you cannot find it in your local home improvement store, buy it online.

4. Peat

You need to ensure your soil has the right pH level. Sometimes, you may prepare your cactus soil and discover that the pH level is pretty high. To lower the pH level, add a small portion of peat to your recipe. However, you should keep in mind that this component can make it difficult to re-wet the soil.

5. Gravel/lava rocks

Gravel and lava rocks are another decent addition to your cactus soil recipe. They are coarse and will help make the potting mix loose and airy.

6. Charcoal & coir

Charcoal is one of the best air conditioners you can use in your DIY cactus soil recipe. It helps prevent diseases by absorbing impurities and ensuring the harmful microorganisms don’t attack the roots of your plants.

Coir helps to retain small amounts of moisture in the soil and also provides a non-compact structure. Some people use coir to replace peat moss.

Apart from the ingredients, you will also need other supplies to make your own potting soil. They include:

• Measuring container/cup.
• A container for mixing (you can use a bucket or tabletop potting tray for this purpose).
• Trowel (a small shovel).
• Gardening gloves.

Let Us Get Started Making Our Own Cactus Soil

Now that you understand the basics of what is needed to make your own cactus soil, it is time to get down to business. You need the following to make your own cactus soil using this recipe:

• 3 parts regular potting soil
• 3 parts coarse sand/ turface/ poultry grit/gravel
• 2 parts perlite/pumice

In this recipe, the term “part” refers to a generic unit of measure that describes your potting mix ratio. Feel free to use any type of container to measure your ingredients as long as you use the same type of measure for each “part.”

For instance, if you use a scoop measure for “one part,” then be sure to use the same scoop twice for “two parts” and three times for “three parts.”  So, if you are using a cup as a unit of measure, this recipe would convert to 3 cups regular potting soil, 3 cups coarse sand/ turface, and 2 cups perlite/pumice.

Mixing your cactus soil

Once you have measured the ingredients as required, you need to move on to the next stage of cactus soil preparation; mixing. So, put on your gardening gloves and let us get started.

Start by moistening the regular garden soil to prevent dust from coming out of the bucket or mixing container.  The next thing you need to do is add sand to the regular garden soil and mix the two thoroughly.

Use hands to stir and mix the two ingredients to achieve better results. Mix for at least seven minutes.

Now scoop the already measured perlite or pumice and add it to the mixture. Stir and mix thoroughly the same way you did after adding sand. Mix for at least five minutes.

At this point, you have good cactus soil, but you need to measure its pH level. So, take a small sample of it and head to the pH measuring meter.

If the pH is below or beyond the recommended values, consider adding a small amount of peat to the mixture, stir thoroughly, and take another reading. Repeat the process until you achieve the desired pH level.

Good work! You have just prepared your first cactus soil. From the procedure described above, you must have realized how easy it is to prepare cactus soil. It is just a matter of understanding the right types of ingredients to use and getting the measurements right.

As long as you use the right ingredients and stick to the correct measurements, you can always make your own cactus soil that you can use for potting, propagating, repotting, or even store it for future use.  You need to keep in mind that you need to leave the soil to dry out before you pot your plants.

Sterilizing the Cactus Soil before Use

Making your own cactus soil is a good idea, but you need to ensure you are not exposing your plants to bacterial or microorganism growth in the process.

Cacti plants are quite sensitive to microorganisms and bacterial growth in the potting mix. You need to be even more careful when you use ingredients from outdoors or have purchased them from a local home improvement store.

If the potting mix is contaminated, it can cause severe infections that can lead to the death of your plant. To avoid such scenarios, make sure you sterilize the soil before using it. One of the best ways of sterilizing cactus soil is by heating.

To do this, place the soil in a pot or glass container, then put it in another larger pot with hot water and keep it on slow cooking mode. This method is commonly referred to as the bain-marie sterilization method.

Keep heating the water inside the larger pot until it reaches the boiling point. This can take anything between 20-30 minutes, depending on the volume of water in the container. Once it has reached the boiling point, turn the heat off and leave the soil to cool down gradually.

Bonus Tip: Leave your newly prepared cactus soil outside for a few days before potting your cacti plants.

Storing Your Leftover Cactus Soil

One of the best things you will love about making your own cactus soil is that you can always mix a big batch and store the excess for future use. Fortunately, storing cactus soil isn’t a difficult thing to accomplish.

You can store your DIY cactus soil on a shelf in your garage, basement, or garden shed. This gives you a good option of preparing your cactus soil ahead of time and storing it for future use.

Just make sure you store your potting mix in an air-tight container to keep pesky bugs out. If you don’t have an air-tight container to use, ensure you purchase one from the nearest general store. A transparent plastic container is the best option because it allows you to monitor the soil’s general condition 24/7. 

How Do I Know If I Need Different Soil?

Sometimes, the cactus soil you make may not be ideal for your plant. Keep in mind different types of cacti species thrive in different types of soil. Therefore, it is critical to understand your plant’s natural habitat and soil type before you start preparing your soil.

If you notice a decline in your plant’s health after potting it in your DIY soil, it could be a sign of problems. Unfortunately, by the time you start noticing signs of stress in your cactus, it could be too late.

The only way to avoid this is to ensure you have the right type of soil. For desert species, use a blend of fine sand, grit, perlite, and regular garden soil. However, if you have the tropical cacti species, add plenty of peat to your soil.

Final Thought

Making your own cactus soil can save you a lot of money and time. In fact, homemade soil is much better than a commercial potting mix because you can control the amount of ingredients you use. The process is also easy to follow.

Now that you know how to make your own cactus soil, it is time to go out there and enjoy gardening! If you are looking for the easy way, here is a list of our favorite and recommended soil mix (Here)

“Low maintenance” – that is probably the first thing that comes to your mind when you hear the word “cactus.” While there is no doubt about the fact that these plants require minimal care and attention to thrive, there are still a few things you need to do to ensure they survive and thrive. Rot is one of the common cacti problems that you need to avoid at all cost. Rot can occur on any part of a cactus plant, from the tip to the roots. 

So, do you want to know how to save a rotting cactus plant? It is possible to save a rotting cactus as long as the damage isn’t severe. No matter the part of your cactus plant that is rotting; there are a few things you can always do to save the plant. You can fix root rot by avoiding overwatering, repotting the cactus in dry soil, and getting rid of the rotted sections.

In this post, we discuss some of the common signs and symptoms of rot in cacti plants, and some of the steps you can take to save a rotting cactus. Read on to find out everything you need to know.

Why Is My Cactus Plant Turning Brown At the Top?

If you realize that your cactus plant is starting to turn brown and mushy at the top, then it could be a sign of tip rot, also known as cactus stem rot. In simple terms, it means that sections of the plant’s stem are rotting, and you need to act fast to save it.

If you don’t act quickly, the rotting may spread down to the entire stem and will eventually kill your plant.

Keep in mind that once your plant starts rotting from the tip downwards, it won’t stop unless you get rid of the rotted sections. Therefore, if you discover tip rot, be sure to act promptly to save the plant.

Why Is My Cactus Plant Rotting Top Down?

There are few things that can cause your cactus to start rotting from the tip downwards.  Fungus, disease, or water penetrating an open wound on the plant can cause this type of rotting.

If your plant is damaged in any way, it is always vulnerable to being infected with fungus spores or diseases. Water may also settle into the wound, causing the plant to rot from inside out.

Sometimes, this type of rotting could also be caused by animals and bugs feeding on the plant, or someone could have brushed it and left a wound behind.

Chances of knowing the exact cause of the problem are minimal, so don’t curse yourself about it.

The good news is that the steps you need to follow to save your rotting cactus are pretty the same, no matter the cause of the problem. We shall discuss what you need to do to stop the rot from spreading in a few minutes.

How to Save a Rotting Cactus Plant

Once your plant starts rotting, there is only one way to save it; get rid of all the rotten parts so that the rot doesn’t spread to other parts of the cactus. If you fail to remove the rotten sections, the rot will continue to spread, and within no time, your plant will be dead.

So, let us see how you can save stem rot and root rot.

Saving a cactus plant from stem rot

When the rotting occurs near the tip of the plant or in the middle stem, all you have to do is cut and toss off the rotting section using pruning shears or a sharp knife.

If your plant has been wounded, study the wound carefully to be sure there are no signs of stem rot.  The existence of a dark tissue or even a slight orange discoloration could be a sign of rot.

If you notice such signs, be sure to cut that section of the stem until you remain with a healthy tissue.

Once you have gotten rid of all the rotting areas, consider treating the wound with powdered sulfur to avoid infections and help it heal relatively faster.

Over time, the wound will callus over, and multiple new stems will start to form just below the cut areas. Decide if you want to keep all of them or not. As long as you provide the cactus with the right conditions, it will heal fully and thrive again.

Saving a cactus plant from root rot

Root rot is more difficult to detect because it occurs underground. In fact, when your plant starts to show signs of root rot, you need to act swiftly and re-pot it to stand any chance of saving the plant.

Keep in mind that this will only work if the top part of your cactus is still healthy and green. If it is already yellowing or going soft, it might be a little late, and all you have to do is forget about the plant and go out to purchase a new one.

Assuming the top part of the plant is still healthy, use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut it off from the roots. Make sure the top section you remain with doesn’t have any wounded parts. Dispose off the bottom part of the plant.

Examine the wound carefully to ensure the remaining part of the plant that you want to repot doesn’t show any signs of rotting. If you notice even the slightest tinge of orange or brown, slice it off until you end up with a section with no signs of rot.

Sometimes, you may discover that the rot has spread from the roots right through the stem of your plant. In such a case, it is game over, and there is nothing you can do to save your cactus. 

Once you are sure that you have remained with a healthy piece of your plant, consider applying sulfur powder to the wound to prevent fungi infestation. The powder usually acts as a natural fungicide.

Set aside the piece for a few days to allow the wound to callus over. Callus formation can take a few days or weeks, depending on the thickness of the stem and weather conditions. Thicker stems may take much longer to callus over.

If you notice that the wound is taking more than one month to callus over, consider turning the stem quite frequently to prevent its tip from starting to grow upward from the prone position because it may ruin the plant’s future symmetry.

If you want to avoid turning the cutting every time, make sure it is standing in an upright position in a safe location.

When the has calloused over, and the entire cut is dry and hard, it is time to repot. Consider using a new pot, but if you decide to keep the previous container, ensure you empty and clean it thoroughly to get rid of any disease spores.

Also, use a dry potting mix and avoid watering your plant immediately after potting because it may lead to a new wave of rot. Give it a few weeks in the dry potting mix until new roots start to form then water it lightly.

Watch Your Watering

Although cacti plants love water, too much of it can be detrimental. Overwatering is the primary cause of root rot in these desert plants. In fact, when it comes to good cacti care, it is better to underwater than overwater.

Therefore, if you notice that you have been overwatering your plant, you need to find a way of helping it shed as much water as possible. To do that, consider transferring the plant to a dry potting mix and stop watering for a few weeks or months.

Also, make sure you are using the right pot size that contains plenty of drainage holes to let out the excess water during watering. Your potting mix must also be porous to drain excess water out quickly.

If you are growing your cacti plants outdoors, consider planting them directly in the ground because it gives you less control over watering. That way, the plant will mostly rely on nature for its water needs unless there is a prolonged drought in your area.

If you still have any doubts about how best to water your indoor or outdoor cacti plants, be sure to read our watering guide here.

Final Thought

Now that you know how to save a rotting cactus, nothing can stop you. Be sure to take action as soon as you notice any signs of rot on your cactus plant. Keep in mind that this is a serious problem that can easily lead to the death of your plant if you don’t take appropriate action as soon as you realize it. 

If you are not sure of how to deal with cactus rot, be sure to consult an expert and let them help you.

Knowing how often to water your cactus is vital to support blooming and fruiting. How often you should water your cactus will depend on what kind of cactus you have. While we most often associate cacti with deserts, some cacti have adapted to growing in the rainforest.

How often should a cactus be watered? A cactus typically needs to be watered about once a week, depending on the season and the cacti’s environment. A cactus can survive in extremely dry conditions. However, the key is making sure your cactus is thriving and not merely surviving.

You can do many things to make sure your cactus is thriving no matter the season or the environment. Keep reading for more water and cactus care tips.

How Often to Water a Cactus

Each cacti species is different and requires a different amount of water, so the best thing you can do is look up your specific species and learn all you can about it. Let’s walk through a few things that influence how much you should water your cactus.

Indoor Cacti

Keeping an eye on your plant is the best way to know when and how often to water your cacti. Once your soil has thoroughly dried, it’s time to water your cactus again.

Here are a few other factors that will help determine how often you should water your indoor cactus:

• The size of your cactus. Smaller cacti are younger and need more water, whereas larger cacti are older and don’t need to be watered as frequently.
• The size and type of your pot. If your cactus is in a large pot, it won’t need to be watered very often as its volume will contribute to holding water; however, a smaller pot will need to be watered more frequently. Smaller pots are recommended for cacti since it’s not good for them to sit in water.

Plastic pots tend to hold onto moisture for a while. While they can still be used for planting cacti, keep in mind that plants probably won’t need to be watered as much and be sure to check the soil before watering. Terra cotta pots are porous and allow the soil to dry quicker. Terra cotta is also a super inexpensive pot that can be purchased in any size or shape. Regardless of what type of pot you choose, keep in mind a pot with drainage holes is the way to go.

The specific species of your cactus can also help you determine how much water will ensure your cactus is thriving.

Checking your soil is essential when it comes to watering your cactus, but also a great way to ensure you’re not over-watering your plant. To properly check your soil, you should:

• Poke a finger into the drainage holes and check if the soil is dry.
• Use a small stick or skewer to check if the soil is dry or damp at the bottom. If the soil is still damp, it will adhere to the stick or skewer, and if the soil is dry, the stick or skewer will come up clean.
• Poke your finger a few inches into the soil, if the soil is dry, you can add some water, and if the soil is still damp, you can hold off on watering.

Outdoor Cacti

Watering cacti outdoors can be a little trial and error, so if you do your research and find a routine that works for you and you notice your plants thriving, stick with it.

Generally speaking, a deep soak is great for outdoor cacti. This mimics its natural environment more. A deep soak is achieved by allowing your hose to drip steadily for several hours, depending on how big or small your cacti are.

As a general rule, you’ll want to plan on watering cacti every two weeks; however, if you live in a warmer climate you may find yourself needing to water cacti more often, and if you live in a cooler climate you’ll probably find you won’t need to water your cacti as frequently. Just as with indoor plants, smaller cacti will require more water while larger cacti are able to store more water and won’t need to be watered as much as smaller ones.

A super helpful tip if you’re repotting or planing a new cactus, plant it dry and give them roots about one week before exposing them to water.

Spring, Summer, Fall, & Winter

Spring and summer are the peak growing season for cacti, so plants will need to be watered about once a week during these warmer months. Still make sure before you water again that the soil is mostly dried out to avoid overwatering.

During this time, when plants are thriving and experiencing a lot of growth, it’s also a good idea to fertilize plants once a month. 

The cooler months of fall and winter are dormant, or rest periods, for cacti. This means plants are alive, but not actively growing If you have a cactus that will flower during the winter, it’s important to keep your plant warm and to water regularly; however, if your cactus doesn’t bloom during the winter and prefers warm, dry climates, you’ll find yourself watering your cactus less frequently.

More Watering Tips

Here are a few more tips to keep in mind as you fall into a routine of watering your cactus:

• Make sure you always allow the soil to dry completely before adding water to your cactus. To ensure your soil is dry, you can opt to use a water gauge or simply dig your finger a few inches into the dirt.
• If your cactus is planted in a pot, it will need watered more frequently than cacti that are planted outdoors.
• It’s important to note that the hardness of your water will affect your cactus. If you have hard water, you’ll want to plan on repotting your cacti every couple of years to avoid salt buildup.

Too Little Water? Or Too Much?

Just as easy as it is for some to neglect a cactus, you can easily over water a cactus as well. Here are a few signs you may be neglecting your cactus, as well as signs you may be killing your cactus with kindness.

Signs of Under Watering

Cacti can still survive even if you’ve neglected them for a little while, but if you start noticing any of the following signs, it’s time to give your cactus some love and maybe start a cactus watering schedule.

• Cactus appears to be limp and/or soft.
• Cactus is leaning to one side.
• Cactus has changed color; typically when cacti are suffering from drought, they will turn a paler color.

It’s important to keep an eye on your cactus and if or when you start to notice any of these things occurring to go ahead and increase the amount of water your cactus is getting. Consider keeping a spray bottle of water near you or your plant and using it as you need to give your plant some extra moisture.

Signs of Over Watering

Too much watering will cause cactus roots to rot, can cause bacterial and fungal growth, and doesn’t allow the cactus to absorb nutrients properly. Unfortunately, your plant will appear to be happy and healthy on top, while it is suffering underneath. Here are a couple of signs you may be giving your cactus too much water:

• Look for extremely fast growth. If you notice your cactus has recently gotten plum and is growing quickly, cup back on watering for a bit.
• If you notice your cactus turning yellow, wilting, or softening, it may be too late to save it.

To avoid overwatering, make sure that the pot you have your cactus planted in has drainage holes in the bottom so that the roots aren’t sitting in water, and opt for a fast-draining soil to plant your cactus in. It may also be helpful to track when you water your cactus by creating a plant schedule.

More Cactus Care Tips

Cacti are pretty low-maintenance plants, but they still require a certain amount of love and attention. Here are a few things you can do to make sure your cacti are staying happy and healthy:

1. The soil you plant your cactus in is super important, and soil used to plant a cactus in needs to allow drainage to avoid allowing the cactus to sit in water. Check out this Succulent Planter Soil Kit or this Succulent and Cactus Soil Mix. Research the kind of soil your specific cacti prefer; some prefer soils with more gravel, while others prefer a sandy mix.

2. Cacti love sunshine, but there is such a thing as too much. Cacti can begin to burn if they happen to be sitting in a window that receives a lot of direct sunlight. Look for color changes on the side facing the sun. Your cactus may need to be moved to a different spot with less sunshine if you notice they begin to burn.

3. Read up on your cactus and learn how to care for your specific plant, and should you have any questions, don’t be afraid to ask a local nursery. Plants typically come with a tag that includes basic information, including the name, for your plant; if not, take a picture to your local nursery, and they can help you identify your plant, or look at pictures online to discover what species of cacti you have.

4. Cacti can benefit greatly from some fertilizer, especially fertilizers that are made specifically for cacti and succulents such as Cactus Juice or this Dynamite Cactus and Succulent Food. Typically you’ll just sprinkle a little fertilizer with each watering, but read the instructions on your fertilizer before use.

Mistakes to Avoid

Here are a few common mistakes to avoid as you begin to care for a cactus:

1. Using a peat-based moss. Many nurseries use this moss for cacti and succulents, and while peat moss may work for a while, at some point, it will get and stay too wet, which isn’t good for cacti.
2. If you plan on using cacti for landscaping, consider your cacti’s specific needs before planting. Poor planning can lead to unhealthy and potentially dead cacti. Again, be sure to do your research on the specific species of cacti you have so you can find the perfect spot outdoors with sufficient sun and shade.
3. Roots need room to grow, and as they become too tight, the roots may not be acquiring the nutrients the plant needs causing the plant to die. If you can see roots through the drain hole, it’s time to re-pot.
4. While succulent and cacti gardens are super popular right now and look great, mixing different species of plants that require different watering schedules and amounts of sunshine could cause cacti, or other succulents, to die. While it takes a little more research and planning, taking the time to choose cacti and/or succulents with similar needs will be worth it in the long run.

Best Indoor Cacti

If you’re wanting an indoor cactus, but aren’t really sure what species to go for, here are a few ideas:

1. Rat Tail Cactus – The Rat Tail cactus is a hanging basket cactus that can grow up to 3 feet long. This cactus blooms bright magenta and takes direct sunlight.
2. Old Lady Cactus – The Old Lady cactus is a unique looking plant that consists of spheres with white hairs and spines. On the healthiest of plants, you’ll notice small pink blooms that form a circle at the top of the spheres. Old lady cacti like sandy potting mix, bright light, and to be watered bi-weekly to monthly.
3. Christmas Cactus – The Christmas cactus has no prickles and bears beautiful flowers that bloom in red, pink, orange, or white. This cactus requires diffused light, and slightly cooler temps during the winter months.
4. Angel Wings Cactus – This cactus has hair instead of spines, grows to be about two feet tall, requires full sun, and will have pale yellow blooms.
5. African Milk Cactus – The African Milk cactus is a slow grower but can grow up to 8 feet tall. This cactus likes partial to full sun and likes watered about twice a month.

Best Outdoor Cacti

Cacti typically thrive indoors, but there are some that do great outdoors as well. If you’re interested in planting cacti outside, check out these species:

1. Claret Cup Cactus – The Claret Cup cactus can grow up to 3 feet high and 6 feet wide. These cacti bear a juicy fruit that turns bright orange as it ripens. Claret Cups like soil with a lot of gravel and prefer full sun.
2. Golden Ball Cactus – Golden ball cacti are also known as Lemon Ball or Yellow Tower because of its color. These cacti can grow up to 3 feet tall, are great for beginners, and enjoy some shade during the hottest part of the day.

1. Strawberry Hedgehog Cactus – The Strawberry Hedgehog cactus grows to be about 28 inches tall, loves all the sun, and has beautiful purple-magenta blooms.
2. Old Man Cactus – Old Man cacti grow as tall columns covered by woolly white hair. These cacti can grow an impressive 49 feet tall and enjoy full sun.
3. Orchid Cactus – The Orchid cactus is a beautiful plant that can grow as long as 225 feet, and grow gorgeous blooms in pink, red, white, yellow, or orange. These cacti require filtered sunlight.

Final Thoughts

How often you water your cactus is vital to making sure it’s not only surviving but also thriving. Several factors will contribute to how often you water your cactus, such as the location of your plant and what climates you experience where you live, among other things.

For example, if you keep your plants indoors, you will want to keep an eye on the soil, and once it’s dry, you can add water. For indoor cacti, you’ll more than likely fall into a routine after a while. For outdoor cacti, the general rule to follow is a deep soak about once a week.

During the warmer months, it’s normal to need to water cacti more frequently and to hold off on watering during the cooler months.

Something to be mindful of with a cactus is that while they can die from not getting enough water, too much water is just as bad for them. Softness, leaning to one side, and lightening in color are all signs your cactus may be thirsty, while extremely quick growth may be a sign your cactus is being overwatered.

Being mindful of the soil you use, noting how much sunshine your cactus is getting versus how much it requires, researching the specific species of cactus you have, and fertilizing your cactus are all ways you can ensure your cactus is staying happy and healthy.

Cacti are pretty versatile, low-maintenance plants making them great for beginners and green thumbs alike, so whether this is your first plant or one of many, enjoy the process and happy gardening!

Cacti and succulents can be a gardener’s best friend. They are easy, low maintenance, and can grow just about anywhere, indoors or out. Some might say they require no care at all.  But those folks would be wrong. Just like any other plant, cacti and succulents do require care. It is just a different kind of care than many traditional plants you are accustomed to.

How do you water a cactus?  Saturate the soil, then allow it to fully dry out before watering again. In landscape, for desert cacti, you want a dry depth of 2” or more, depending on cactus size. For indoor potted cacti, a dry depth of at least 1½” to 2” is best. Good drainage is key to avoiding root rot.

There is an old joke… how do you water a cactus?  VERY carefully! Though that is true, there is a lot more involved than wearing chain mail gloves and standing 6’ away. Issues include where is the cactus located, what season is it, what kind of cactus or succulent do you have, what type of soil are you using, what is the ambient temperature and on and on and on?  Each answer can play a role in “how to water cactus.”

Cactus or Succulent?

First, not everyone knows if they have a cactus or a succulent. These are different, but related plants. A cactus is a type of succulent, but not all succulents are cacti.  With me so far? An example might help. A Prickly Pear or Saguaro is a cactus. Aloe Vera is not a cactus, but it is a succulent.

In this context, a succulent is defined by Cambridge Dictionary as “a plant such as a cactus in which the leaves and stem are thick and can store a lot of water.” On the other hand, a cactus is defined as “any of a type of plant that grows in the desert, having thick stems for storing water and usually spines”. There are more than 1,750 different cactus species throughout the world.

In a true cactus, the base or “stem” is extremely thick and almost tree-like in some species.  The “spines” or “thorns” are actually modified leaves, that help reduce moisture loss by being tightly furled. Like more traditional plants, cacti have stomata to exchange oxygen and carbon dioxide with their environment. However, in cacti, the stomata are located in the base or trunk, rather than the leaves.

A cactus stores water in its trunk/stem. In some species, you can actually see the plant change in size and shape before and after thorough watering.  The barrel cactus and the saguaro cactus are both good examples of that. Pad-type cacti, like the prickly pear for example, also store water in their pads.

There is an incorrect assumption that cacti (the plural of cactus) do not need water, or at least not much. Not accurate. Cacti are much better at storing water than other plants, but that does not reduce their need for water.

Cacti are simply very drought resistant. Their natural environment is the desert, where water comes and goes intermittently. When there is good access to water, the base will expand or the “pads” will expand, depending on species.

If you have ever cut into a cactus or a succulent, you know the interior is a wet, juicy, pulpy material. This is how the water is stored. As water is needed, the cactus can pull it from the pulp and use it in normal cellular functions.

Additionally, during dry time or drought conditions, most cacti can go into an almost suspended state. Growth is greatly reduced or stopped until conditions improve.

Succulents, overall, also need less frequent watering than cactus because they also are able to store water in their fleshy areas. Unlike cacti, succulents lack substantial spines or thorns as a prominent feature.

Location and Soil Type

Now that we’ve identified if you have a cactus or a succulent, the next thing to note is where is your plant located and what type of soil does it have?

Indoors

If your cactus is indoors, planted in a pot, you are able to control external variables like heat, humidity and sunlight. The most important thing to note, in this event, is what type of soil is in your container? Cacti, and succulents in general, prefer soils that drain or percolate very well.  The worst thing you can do to your spiny little friend is to put him in some peat moss and keep him damp all the time.

Cacti do best in loose, porous, pebbly or sandy soil materials.  They require good aeration and, as noted, plenty of drainage. Their root systems are specialized to live within these harsh conditions. 

• First, they are covered with a cork-like outer layer, that helps reduce water loss to the soil itself.
• Second, they have an extensive shallow root system that acts almost web-like to catch as much water as possible when it is available. New roots form quickly when water is available.
• Third, cacti are able to dehydrate new root growth when the soil begins to dry. This leaves small air pockets in the soil, preventing any water from seeping back out of the root system.

Living in a pot in your home, you need to keep this root system in mind. Make certain your pot is more than adequate to allow for good root growth. Remember, we’re talking lateral growth, not vertical. With controlled environments, most cacti will not need to be watered more than every 10 days, or so. The biggest risk you have with this situation is overwatering the little guy and causing “root rot”.

Cactus roots are simply not designed to sit in a wet environment. You need to water very thoroughly, then allow the soil to completely dry out before another watering occurs. Check soil depths as far down as 2” to make sure they are fully dried before you water again. Do not “mist” your cactus. It does no good, whatsoever.

Outdoors

I live in Arizona. We get less than 9” of rain annually. However, over 2/3 of that comes in a 2-month timeframe.  We call them the “monsoons”. A storm will build over the course of the day. In the afternoon, a torrential rain may occur. It can drop up to ½ inch or more in less than 30 minutes. Then, it’s gone.  These storms pop up in different locations and rain off and on throughout the entire southern third of the state in the months of July and August.

Beyond that….it’s dry as a bone. Seriously, the lead-in story on the news is when it rains. Cacti LOVE it! Most desert environments are comparable.  It is VERY hot and dry 9-10 months per year. Then, you have a short “wet” season, where the rains will torrent down. Flash flooding is common.  This is prime growth season for cacti.

Because deserts tend to have sandy soils, the water drenches the roots well, but does not linger. This wet/dry cycle is the key to good cactus water management. You need to mimic this watering cycle, as best possible. You need a good draining, loose type of soil. Do not go out and buy moisture-retaining mulches, this will just lead to root rot.

When the weather is hot, DRY, and sunny, you will water more frequently. If it is cooler, or you live in a humid area, your watering levels will decrease. Some species actually go dormant during the off-growing season. In that event, you may go months without needing to water, depending on the rainfall in your area.

If there is a lot of humidity, the ground will stay wet longer, reducing your watering frequency. Like an indoor plant, when you do water, you will want to saturate the soil, then allow it to fully dry out before watering again. With larger outdoor plants, you may need to check down as far as 6” to 8” to make certain that soil has dried.

What Type of Cactus Is It?

Regular, houseplant types of cacti generally come in two forms. The first is the “traditional” cactus. You know, spiny thorns, lives in the desert, grows in shapes likes paddles, balls and obelisks. 

The other form is the “forest” cacti. This type of cactus is native to wetter, more temperate areas. Like their name indicates, they are indigenous to temperature forests, and include tropical and subtropical regions. A good example is the Christmas cactus. As you can probably guess just from that information, these cacti have very different care needs, including watering.

Traditional or Desert Cacti

As we discussed earlier, traditional or desert cacti prefer well drained soil. If you’re using a commercial brand, make sure it has a high perlite content. For forest cacti, regular potting mix is fine.

Traditional or desert cacti prefer temperatures in the 55° to 80°F plus areas. During their growth season, traditional cacti will do much better in the warmer temperatures, but you will want to keep them cooler and protect from drafts during their rest periods. They are also not fond of a lot of humidity. If you live in a humid area or it is during your rainy season, the desert/traditional cacti water frequency needs to drop substantially.

Forest or Jungle Cacti

Many forest cacti don’t really look much like cactus at all. They lack the spines or thorns we generally associate with cactus. They are usually either epiphytic, meaning they grow on trees or other organic materials or they are lithophytic, meaning they grow on rocks. Both get their water and nutrients from rain, dust, air, dead leaves, etc. Neither are parasitic, they simply utilize the other structures for support.

For obvious reasons, you will want your soil to mimic these conditions as closely as possible. Good soil materials include orchid bark, potting soil, pumice and oak leaf mold. It is important that the soil is loose, airy and provides extremely good drainage. Forest cacti are watered more like a regular houseplant than like a cactus. You will want to water it regularly during the summer months and especially when buds begin to appear.

During its resting period, you will water only when the soil is dry to the touch. Like other succulents and cacti, overwatering can result in root rot. Forest cacti have a temperature range comparable to desert cacti but will do well dropping to the 50s even during their growth season.

Unlike desert cacti, you will want to re-pot your forest cactus every 2-3 years. The best time to do so is after it has finished blooming. Providing fresh new soil mix at that time is a good idea.

With your forest or jungle cacti, you will want to water after the top 0.5cm (a little less than 1/4”) is dry. It the stem segments are shriveled, and the soil is dry, the plant is probably in need of water. Be careful, shriveled stem segments can also be a symptom of overwatering. The soil itself is the best gauge of watering frequency.

Other concerns that may affect your forest cacti include lighting and humidity levels.  A really great resource for forest cacti specifically is worldofsucculents.com.

Identifying your type of cactus may be as easy as reading the little tag in the pot when you buy it. If not, you may need to do some research.  There are some very good online sources for identification. My favorites include plantsam.com, cactiguide.com, and drought-smart-plants.com.

Watering Your Cacti

We’ve been addressing this question throughout our conversation, but I think it’s best if we pull it all together in one location. That way, we avoid any misunderstandings.

Watering Your Indoor Desert Cacti

Starting with indoor desert cacti. You will generally water these about every 10 days, or so. For the first month or two, there will be a little trial until you identify the best schedule for your cactus to thrive.

Thoroughly soak the soil. If your pot has a hole at the bottom, make sure the water is running through the hole.  Begin checking soil moisture about 7 days later. If you have a moisture guide, that makes it easy. If not, put your finger in the soil. You want to be dry at least 2” down.

If you aren’t sure if it’s dry or not, a telltale sign is the soil being cooler toward the top than it is lower, that temperature gradient is indicative of moisture. When you hit that magic 2” mark, it is time to water again. Over the course of a couple of watering cycles, you’ll establish how often to water. Remember, watering frequency will need to increase when it is hotter than normal indoors. If you have evaporative cooling, it will need to decrease based on the increased humidity in your home.

Watering Your Indoor Forest Cacti

If you have indoor forest cacti, you want to fully saturate the soil. Again, if you have a pot with a hole at the bottom, make sure the water is running out the hole. If not, don’t be afraid to put some significant water on it.

Begin checking soil after 5 days. With forest cacti, you only need to be dry down about ¼”, rather than the 2” for desert cacti.

Some aficionados prefer to place a saucer of water under the pot and allow the cacti roots to pull the water up. This can work, but it is imperative the roots do not touch directly in the water, as that would lead to root rot. The safest way for your cactus is the soil down method.

There is no need to spritz or mist either type of cactus. They don’t get their moisture in this fashion, so it does absolutely no good, whatsoever.

Watering your Outdoor Forest Cacti

Honestly, most people keep forest cacti indoors, as they are a very decorative plant. However, that is not a requirement, so we should address the possibility here.  Most do not do well in direct sun, so please be sure you have planted in an appropriate location.

You will probably want to maintain this in a pot, rather than plant it directly in the ground. If that is true for your forest cacti, begin with the same instructions as indoor plants. Do not be surprised if you have to increase water frequency to less than once per week, however.

During the warmer, summer months, the watering frequency may increase to as often as every 3 days, depending on temperature, wind and humidity levels.

Watering Your Outdoor Desert Cacti

Outdoor desert cacti are the trickiest of the bunch. So much is dependent on the temperature, humidity level, size of the plant and other variables. With smaller plants, less than 2’ high, the 2” depth margin for dry soil remains a good yardstick. However, if you have larger plants, like saguaro or good-sized prickly pear, you need to adjust accordingly.

Recommendations would be waiting to water until soil conditions are dry 3” down for plants 2’ to 4’ tall and dry down to 4” for plants taller than 4’. Regardless of height, you will want to saturate the soil thoroughly, remembering this must be good draining soil.

Overwatering = Root Rot

The biggest risk to your cacti, whether it is indoor or outdoor, desert or forest is the risk of overwatering. Remember how we talked about cactus roots being specialized to live in low-water environments? This specialization is what lead to problems with overwatering. When your cactus sits in too much water, the roots can’t handle it properly. The outer coating begins to break down and rot sets in.

Over time, you can actually see the rot occurring, as your base near the soil turns first mushy, then brown, then ultimately black and shriveled.  All hope is not lost! The sooner you identify the rot, the more likely you are to salvage the situation and save the plant.

Here are the steps to salvaging an indoor plant with root rot:

1.        Remove the entire cactus from the pot. You’ll probably want to use kitchen tongs or a comparable tool to do this. Place it gently on its side and remove as much dirt from the root system as you can without causing any further damage.

2.        Trim off any roots that are brown, black, smelly, or oozing.  The affected roots will be very obvious. It is recommended you use bypass pruners for this step. Dust the remaining roots with powdered sulfur and allow the plant to lay in the air, roots exposed for 1-7 days, to allow the cuts to scab over. Be sure to disinfect the pruners thoroughly before you put them away.

3.        Using a pot (terra cotta is best) slightly larger than the former pot the cactus was in, fill it about 2/3 full of commercial cactus potting mix. Place the cactus carefully in the pot, without bending any of the now brittle roots. Fan the feet across the soil. Continue filling the pot loosely with enough soil to bring the level back to where it was in the former pot.

4.        Wait about 2 weeks before watering the cactus deeply.  Then, begin your water regimen again, remember to check soil moisture levels carefully before re-watering.

Steps to salvage an outdoor (landscape) cactus with root rot are a little different:

1.        Mark the north side of the cactus with chalk before you begin to dig it up. It is important to keep the cactus oriented the same way when you re-plant. Uproot the cactus by cutting a circle around it with a shovel about 6” from the base. Be sure you use the shovel to lift it gently from the base area before lifting it from the ground.

2.        Using tongs for smaller cacti or a garden hose for larger ones, move the cactus into a wheelbarrow and transport to a shady area to assess the situation.

3.        Lay it on its side, with plastic sheeting underneath. Brush away as much loose dirt as possible to get a good view of those roots. Using pruning shears, remove any roots that are black, brown, soggy or smelly. Dust the remaining roots with powdered sulfur. Place a shade cover over the cactus and leave the roots exposed to air for at least 2 days to allow for scabbing over the cuts. Disinfect your pruners!!!

4.        While you wait for the scabs to form, we need to identify the problem. It is probably a drainage issue, so let’s dig a hole about a foot deep where you’re going to re-plant. Fill the hole with water and wait for it to drain. Then, fill it again. This second-time monitor how long it takes to drain. If you’re draining less than 2” per hour, you have some work to do.

5.        If we’ve identified a drainage issue in step 4, we’re going to address it here. Loosen the soil 18” to 24”. Add 2” of sand to the loosened soil and mix thoroughly. Test the drainage again by filling the hole and monitoring the drainage rate. If you have added more than 4” of sand with no improvement in drainage, you will need to prepare a large terra cotta pot full of commercial cactus mix to re-plant the pot in.

6.        To re-plant, carefully place with cactus in the hole you’ve prepared or the partially filled terra cotta pot. Remember to face the chalk mark north. Carefully spread the roots out on the soil, while being careful not to bend them. Fill in soil around the cactus until you’ve reached the area the soil was at prior to the rot occurring.

Withhold water for 2 weeks. Then water deeply. Allow soil to dry out to a depth of 2” to 3” before watering again. Monitor your water frequency closely and check soil moisture routinely prior to watering.

Final Thoughts

Though cacti and succulents are wonderful plants to grow both indoor and outdoor, lack of knowledge about their needs and requirements can be deadly. I’m not suggesting you need to go become a cacti expert if Aunt Edna gives you a nice little Christmas cactus, but I am saying your lack to understanding its needs can be detrimental.

If you want that gift to thrive, or even survive, first you need to know what you have and how to care for it. Remember, Christmas cactus and other forest-type cacti prefer indirect sunlight, moderate temperatures and moisture frequencies of around a week.  Let their soil dry out to a depth of at least ¼” before watering again.

Water requirements will fluctuate primarily based on growing season, interior temperature and humidity. Desert cacti love direct sunlight, warm temperatures and low humidity. Remember to let their soil dry out to a depth of at least 1½ “ to 2” if they are in pots and 2” or more if they are landscaped, depending on size.

Water requirements will fluctuate greatly throughout the year. Primary variables will include temperature, sunlight, wind, humidity and growing season. Take care of your cactus or succulent and you can enjoy it for years.

Overly active children, marauding cats, a careless bump, or an unexpected accident can easily knock a piece off your loved cactus plant. If such a thing ever happens to you, no need to worry because you don’t have to throw away the cut piece.

While the main plant can still survive even after losing part of its stem, it may seem wasteful to throw away the dislodged part and forget everything.

So, can you cut off a piece of cactus and plant it? The simple answer is yes. A significant number of cacti species can easily be propagated from cuttings. Some of the common cacti species usually propagated from cuttings include a hedgehog, prickly pear, and branching columnar cacti such as the night-blooming cereus. 

Also, if a section of your cactus breaks off accidentally, don’t throw away the broken piece. Instead, root it and let it grow into a new plant.

In this post, we discuss everything you need to know about propagating cacti plants from cuttings. Whether you have taken the cutting from your plant intentionally or it has broken off accidentally, we are going to teach you how to grow new plants from the cuttings.

Taking a Cutting from Your Cactus

When it comes to propagating a cactus from cuttings, you need to be careful with how and where you take your cutting. In fact, this step will determine your success in the long run. If you make a mistake at this point, your cactus cutting may fail to grow into a new plant.

The first thing you need to do is choose a healthy and mature plant where you will be taking your cutting from. If your plant has pads, be sure to select a mature one even if other smaller pads have started growing on top of it.

Once you have identified a good plant to take cuttings from, put on protective gloves and carefully cut off a section of the plant that is at least a few inches from the top. You can use a sharp knife or hand saw to accomplish this step.

Make sure you take the cutting at an angle so that rainwater doesn’t start collecting on the parent plant because it can lead to rot issues. You should also disinfect the knife or handsaw before you take the cutting.

This is to ensure that you don’t transmit bacteria to the plant via existing wounds on its surface. If you don’t feel comfortable holding a cactus plant with your hands, feel free to use a pair of cactus pliers or tongs.

Rooting Your Cactus Cutting

Once you have your cutting, you will need to do a few things before you root it.

First, set your cutting in a dry, cool area away from direct sunlight for a few days. If possible, keep the cutting in a vertical position to prevent roots from growing out on the sides of the cutting and to help it remain straight while drying.

Let the cutting rest for a few days to form a callous at the cut end. Don’t take the cutting and plant right away because it will only rot and you will have nothing at the end of it.

Callousing seals and protects the wound from bacterial and fungal organisms that could easily cause the cutting to rot once it has been planted.

1. Rooting in a pot

Once your cutting has dried and calloused completely, it is time to root it so it can start growing into a new plant. You can choose to root your cutting in a planting pot or the ground. We shall talk about both methods.

If you decide to root your cutting in a pot, make sure you find the right pot size. For a cutting, you don’t need an enormous container.  Just find something appropriate that won’t appear too large for your cutting. Ensure the container you choose has plenty of drainage holes.

The next thing you need to do is fill your pot with an appropriate potting mix. Let us discuss a few things about the soil because it plays a crucial role in the survival and rooting of your cactus cutting.

Just like mature cacti plants, your cactus requires porous, well-draining soil. Keep in mind that if the soil holds water for too long, it may cause rotting of the cutting at the base. To be on a safe side, consider adding plenty of perlite or sand to your soil to improve drainage.

Now, fill the growing pot with the potting mix and carefully insert the cutting into the container.  Your cutting should penetrate at least two inches into the soil if it is small (less than six inches) and three to four inches deep if the cutting is more than six inches long.

Consider supporting your cutting with small stones or two wooden stakes with twine to keep it in an upright position.

Keep the newly planted cuttings away from direct sunlight. You can position your pot in a brightly lit location but make sure the cutting is well protected from direct sunlight until roots are well established.

You want to avoid sunburns and dehydrating your cutting before it develops a stable root system.

2. Rooting in the ground

If you don’t have an appropriate pot size, you can still root your cutting in the ground.  If you choose to take this route, be sure to loosen the soil in the spot where you want to plant your cutting.

After that, dig a hole in the loosened soil that is deep enough to place the calloused end of your cutting in the ground a few inches deep.

In most cases, you may be forced to mound small stones around the cutting for support, especially if the cutting is from a columnar cactus.

Once you are sure that roots have successfully formed and your cutting is now firmly anchored in the ground, remove the stones.

Should I Water the Cutting Immediately After Planting?

When it comes to taking care of cacti plants, watering is a critical factor that you need to handle carefully. By now, you must be aware of the fact that overwatering kills these succulents much faster than underwatering.

So, how often should you water your cutting after rooting?  At the time of planting, consider wetting the soil thoroughly. From there, you don’t have to worry so much about watering because the cutting can remain in good shape for a few days or weeks before it requires another watering.

Any subsequent watering must be light and consistent. A good rule of the thumb is to lightly water your cutting once every week to keep it moist.  You should aim to keep the soil damp, not too wet.

Don’t try to force faster rooting by overwatering because the cuttings will only rot.

How Long Does It Take a Cactus Cutting to Develop Roots?

Typically, the rates at which cuttings develop new roots depend on a wide range of factors such as the size of cutting, type of cactus, and watering regimen.

Generally, it takes four to six weeks for the roots to form, but smaller cuttings tend to develop roots much faster than large cuttings.

To achieve better results, make sure you take time to prepare your cuttings properly beforehand and pot them in sterile rooting material to keep them from rotting or withering before they root. After rooting, most cacti plants will be ready for transplantation approximately one month later.

If a Cactus Breaks Off, Can I Plant the Broken Pieces?

Yes, you can.  Don’t throw away broken pieces of your plant because they can give you new plants. The only thing you need to do is to make sure that you are following the right steps in preparing the broken pieces for planting.

The first thing you need to do is to check the broken end of the piece. If it is crooked or broke, use a sharp knife to make a fresh cut to even the end out.

Set the broken piece aside for a few days to allow the wound to callous over in preparation for rooting. Make sure the cut end is dry and sealed over before you proceed to root it.

3 Tips for Successful Propagation

As a gardener, your joy is to see your cuttings /seeds develop into new plants to increase your plant collection. These tips will help you when it comes to propagating cacti plants:

1. Develop technical and mechanical skills

Take time to train your hand and eye because they are crucial in propagation. Most of the time, your head will know how, but your hand won’t be willing to do it. The best way to improve your skills is by practice.

2. Know your cacti species and its best form of propagation

There are over 2500 cacti species in the world, and each one of them is unique. Therefore, strive to know your plant species and the form of propagation that works best for it.

3. Know the different plant structures and how they grow

The best way to learn about your cactus is to study it. Make an effort to know something new about your plant every day. Let it teach you, and once you understand how they grow, you will have an easy time propagating them.

Final Thought

Now that you know how to propagate cacti plants from cuttings, it’s time to go out there and practice what you have learned.

Feel free to experiment with new things and let us know how it goes. We love talking to cacti lovers all over the world. Subscribe to our email list for the latest gardening tips.

A significant number of people start out with cacti plants as a gift plant and usually don’t think about propagation in the early days. However, as it grows and starts to blossom, many of them quickly turn into collectors, and questions such as “how do I propagate my cactus?” begin to rise. Fortunately, there are several ways of propagating cactus. 

So, how to propagate cactus pups? Generally, this is one of the easiest methods of propagating cacti since it doesn’t involve a lot of things. Pups are smaller versions of the parent plant that tend to grow at the base.  The process involves removing the offsets from the parent, rooting them in appropriate potting mix and watering appropriately.

Propagating cacti pups not only produces new plants but also plays a critical role in decongesting crowded pots.

Read on to find out everything you need to know about cactus propagation from pups and how to take care of newly propagated offsets.

Propagating Cactus from Pups- A Quick Overview

Propagating cactus by pups is a vegetative form of plant propagation because it doesn’t involve transfer of seeds. The parent plant produces an offset asexually, and this is what you use to get a new plant.

The pup occurs as a small clump that you can easily separate from the parent plant and grow a new cactus from it. This is probably the easiest method of propagating cacti. Most of the time, it is relatively easy to separate the pup from the parent plant, and it will grow its roots and settle pretty quickly and often successfully.

In most cases, the pups will already have a small set of their own roots. Unfortunately, not all cacti species can produce pups. Therefore, before you start considering this propagation method, make sure the cactus species in your garden can produce offsets.

Types of cacti that grow pups/offsets

Many of the barrel and rosette types of cacti do produce offsets. Typically, the big barrel cacti form the biggest pups, and it is one of the best types of succulents to propagate using this method. The barrel cactus has a unique way of providing nutrients and water to its offsets and shading them from the harsh sun.

Most pups form at the base of the plant, but you may also find some along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these offsets and root them in a container so they can grow into a new plant.

Cactus propagation by offsets/pups is easy and fast as long as you take clean cuts and allow the offsets to callous before rooting.

Generally, cacti plants you should consider propagating with pups must be large, round, and clump producing. The parent plant must be large, and the offsets must be at least the size of a small ball.

How to Propagate Cacti Using Pups- The Process

Once you are fully convinced your plant has good offsets/pups for propagation, follow the steps outlined below to turn your pups into new plants.

Removing cactus pups from the parent plant

The first thing you need to learn is how to remove the offsets from the parent plant. Get a sharp kitchen knife and wipe it with some alcohol or a 10% bleach solution. This will disinfect it and prevent pathogens from finding their way into your cactus through the cut areas.

Locate a good pup and carefully cut it away at a 45^o angle. Make sure your cut is slanted to deflect water so that the cut area doesn’t rot before it callus. Some gardeners love to dust the cut end of the pup with sulfur powder to prevent rot issues and fungal infection.

However, sulfur powder may not be necessary as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully before rooting. This may take a few weeks or one month, depending on the conditions in your home. You will know that the offset is ready for rooting when the cut end is dry, hardened, slightly shriveled, and whitish.

When obtaining the offset, make sure you remove soil from the top of the pup to see the joint between the parent plant and the offset. If the joint is clear, you may realize that disconnecting the pup manually is much easier.

If there is any part of the parent plant on the offset, be sure to cut it off. Otherwise, it will start to rot, and that may affect your pup severely.

Rooting the pup

After obtaining the pup, the next thing you need to do is root it. This step is only necessary if your pup doesn’t have any roots. To root your pup, consider placing it in a dry soil with some gravel for a few days or up to one week. Monitor it carefully and get it out as soon as it grows a few roots.

You can also place the offset in a small pot with sand, ground charcoal, and some perlite for it to grow roots.  Skip this step with all pups that have small roots.

Growing the offset

Once your pups have developed a few roots, it is time to pot them. Start by preparing the container and the potting mix for your offsets. Make sure the container has plenty of drainage holes and is of the right size. Cactus pups need a pot that is just slightly larger than their diameter at the base.

The soil should also have good drainage and gritty. You can purchase commercial soil or make your own by combining 50% perlite or pumice with 50% compost or peat.

Carefully place your pup in the soil, but do not push inside the potting mix too much. Only ¼ of the pup’s stem should be under the soil. Ensure your pup is stable enough so that it doesn’t fall over. Place the pot in a spot that receives bright but indirect sunlight and keep the soil moist.

However, do not water your offsets straight after planting. Wait for at least five days or one week before watering. This minimizes the chances of root rotting and fungal infections.

Another critical point to note is that some cacti plants tend to produce tiny pups beneath their stems. These offsets are often too small because they get less sunlight.

After separating such pups from the parent plant, dry them up for a couple of days before planting. After planting, leave them in the shade for a few days before you gradually move them to a bright spot.

What Kind of Potting Mix Should You Use for Pups?

The most crucial consideration when it comes to choosing cactus soil is drainage. Cacti plants love well-draining soil that doesn’t hold water for too long. If you are a beginner, we’d recommend going for a commercially prepared cactus soil.

However, if you are an experienced gardener, then you probably know how to make your own potting mix. Here are a few tips for success:

• Dampen the potting mix thoroughly, but do not get it too soggy. Remember the fact that wetter soil encourages rapid fungal growth and root rot. Before introducing your pups into the soil, consider dipping them in a rooting powder containing a fungicide.
• If you want to avoid the moisture problem completely, consider using pumice to start your pups and then transplant them to their permanent containers after they get some growth.
• Keep your pups in a relatively warm area with plenty of bright, indirect sunlight and excellent air circulation. Give the offsets a little misting once in a while but do not water them heavily.
• To achieve better results, just set the offsets on top of the soil. There is no need to bury them deep into the soil. As long as they are stable, they will automatically send out roots in search of soil.

How Often Should You Fertilize Propagated Pups

For a start, there is no need to fertilize your pups. Moderate watering and exposure to a sufficient amount of sunlight should do the trick. However, as the pups start to grow into plants, you should begin to apply fertilizer at least once in a year.

Do not apply fertilizer during winter because your cactus is dormant. Wait until spring or summer when the active growing season begins and give your plant a good dose of recommended fertilizer to promote growth and blooming.  Consult experts from your local plant nursery to establish the best type of fertilizer for your plant.

PS: After you give your cactus plant water that contains fertilizer, make sure you rinse the plant body. Otherwise, if you leave any fertilizer on the skin of the plant, there is an increased risk of the plant being sunburned or burned by the chemical itself.

Summary

That is it on how to propagate cacti from pups/offsets. Keep in mind that this is probably the easiest way to propagate cacti, and you shouldn’t experience any problems if you stick to the procedure outlined in this article.

The best time to propagate pups is late spring or early summer. Just make sure your pups dry up completely before planting.

If you have any comments or questions, let us know in the comments section below.