Month: November 2021

Ultimate Guide: How to fight succulents Diseases and Pests

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Succulents Diseases And Pests

Succulents mainly comprise cactuses and fleshy-leaved plants. Gardeners love these plants because they are difficult to kill. However, there might be instances where your succulents’ plants appear less healthy.

It might be because of pests and diseases, regardless of how well you water them. Pests trigger different diseases, some of which are difficult to deal with. 

Learning how to deal with these diseases ensures your succulents’ plants look healthy. Succulents’ pests and diseases have different symptoms. Understanding these symptoms may help detect pests and conditions before they spread to the entire plant.

The below tips help prevent pests on your succulent collections:

  • Using fertilizer during the growing season: Fertilizer makes succulents healthy and strong. This reduces the chances of your plants succumbing to pests.
  • Dead leaves are one of the breeding grounds for pests and molds. Therefore, remove dead leaves that might be near your succulent garden. 
  • Don’t reuse dead leaves or soil from a previously used infected plant. Some eggs might have survived to infect your plants.
  • Using pesticides is another popular technique for preventing pest infestation. Consider pesticides made from natural products. There are two types of pesticides to choose from, namely systematic and contact pesticides. Systematic pesticides get absorbed on the roots and poison pests when they feed on them. On the other hand, contact pesticides require physical contact to kill pests. 
  • Keeping your succulent plants and soil dry: Pests like gnats and mealybugs are some animals that breed in wet conditions.

Common Pests Infestations in Succulents Plants 

Pest infestations are prevalent, especially if you love gardening. Therefore, don’t be shocked if pests infest your succulents, despite your gardening experience. Some pests develop resistance to pesticides, which is a common problem.

Luckily, pesticides are regularly enhanced to deal with mutating pests and diseases. Tiny pests also hide in unseen places, making it difficult to spot them. Some common pests in succulent plants include:

Mealybugs 

It is considered among the most dangerous succulent pests. These pets are small in size, generally between 1/3 to 1/5 inches in length. Mealybugs appear white with both a cotton and waxy appearance if you keenly look.

A mealybugs on the plant.
Mealybugs hide on the underside of leaves and joints.

This pest is common in succulent spines and veins. At times, mealybugs hide on the underside of leaves and joints. This pest sucks juices from succulent plants, hence the wrinkled and shriveled leaves.

Sometimes, the infestation can be severe, resulting in the death of the plant. Black mold is one of the common symptoms of Mealybugs infestation. You should also be on the lookout for Mold growth.

Mealybugs secrete a substance that promotes mold growth. Separate any succulent plant that displays these symptoms from the rest. Regularly inspect your plants because this pest can destroy them.

A systemic pesticide is recommended when it comes to treatment, significantly when your succulent plant is growing. However, those using contact insecticides should use high concentrations because of the protective covering on this pest. 

Fungus Gnats 

This pest looks like mosquitoes and usually is black. Their length can be 1/6 to 1/8 inches and mostly attack the succulent plant’s roots. Root damage slows down the growth rate of a plant or withers to death. 

Fungus Gnats  on the leaf.
Soil with a lot of moisture is the breeding ground for fungus gnats.

Soil with a lot of moisture is the breeding ground for fungus gnats. Therefore, choose only well-draining soil when planting your succulent collections. Avoid overwatering by giving soil enough time to dry out. 

Use pumice to drain any excess water and also regulate moisture. In addition, cinnamon powder contains anti-fungal properties, reducing the chances of fungus gnats’ infestation. So, sprinkle some cinnamon powder where you have planted your succulent plants.

Spider mites mostly attack succulent plants because of their sweet sap. They suck juices out of plants. Additionally, their length is 1/50 inch, one of the reasons it can go undetected when it attacks plants. 

Spider Mites 

A spider mite.
They suck juices out of plants.

Watch out for Brown dots and webbing in your succulent plants. These are among the warning symptoms of spider mites infestation. Eventually, the succulent plant might turn lighter and finally white. 

Quarantine your plant if you notice the above symptoms. This preventative measure ensures an infestation doesn’t spread to other plants. Cotton dipped in rubbing alcohol can remove spider mites from your plant.

Systemic pesticides are also used to prevent spider mites infestation. Place your plant away from direct light after using systemic pesticides. 

Aphids 

The common aphids are green in color. This pest is mainly found on the leaves or the soft tissues of succulent plants. Aphids excrete a white substance when feeding on plants, which promotes the growth of black mold. 

The common aphids are green in color.
This pest is mainly found on the leaves or the soft tissues of succulent plants.

Misshaped leaves and slow growth are the common symptoms of Aphids infestation. Systematic insecticides are recommended for severe infestation, but only during the growing season. Soapy mixture and high-pressure water are other popular ways of getting rid of aphids before spreading to the entire plant.

Scale

The scale pest mainly attacks the leaves and stems of a plant. It makes plants have wrinkled leaves because they suck out plant juices. Small brown bumps are the most common symptom of scale infestation.

Act when you see brown bumps on your plant because this plant multiplies quickly. Also, separate it from other plants so that this pest doesn’t spread. Apart from physical removal, systematic insecticide is another popular way of removing this pest from your succulent plants. 

Common Disease in Succulent Plants 

Like other plants, succulent plants are also prone to diseases. However, most of these diseases are unpredictable and appear when we least expect them. These diseases are divided into four main categories, namely:

Fungal Diseases

Succulents growing in humidity and cool temperatures areas are prone to fungal diseases. Black spot, Rhizoctonia rot, black spot, Anthracnose, pythium, and Epiphyllum mosaic disease are examples of fungal diseases. 

Succulent plants infected with fungal diseases exhibit spots. Webbing on the soil around the infected plant is also common. 

Almost nothing can be done when a plant is infected with a fungal disease. Therefore, uproot it from the soil so that it doesn’t infect other plants. 

Viral Diseases

Viral infections are very popular in succulent plants. Mainly, insects spread viruses when feeding on the plant’s sap. Therefore, controlling insects that cause viral infections is the best preservative method. 

Common symptoms of viral diseases are quick shoots’ growth and stunted growth. Discard any plant with viral infection since there is no remedy. 

Conditions Diseases

These diseases arise due to poor care of your plants. Desiccation, etiolation, over-watering, pot-bound roots, and sunburn are examples of these conditions. Over-watering is the top condition succulent plants encounter. It causes splitting or rots. 

Etiolation occurs when your succulent collections require more sunlight. In such situations, additional growth might be necessary.

Unfortunately, such growth is mostly deformed and sickly. Under-watering plants results in drying up or desiccation. 

Excessive sun can also trigger sunburn in your plants. Usually, the side facing the sun turns either brown or white. Crowded roots are another common problem for succulents planted in pots.

It prevents moisture from adequately moving from roots to other parts of the plant. 

Deficiencies

Just like humans, succulents also require nutrients to survive. Lack of nutrients is one of the common diseases in succulent plants. Turning yellow is one of the symptoms your plant lacks some nutrients.

Measure the soil you will use for planting to determine if there are sufficient nutrient levels. 

 Effective Pests and Diseases Management Tips 

As earlier stated, pests and diseases may attack your plants when you least expect them. Understanding some management tips gives an idea of what to do when you notice your succulent plants are ailing. Below are proven management tips worth trying out:

Flowers being exposed in the light of the sun.
Pests and diseases may attack your plants when you least expect them.
  • Succulent plants have different climatic requirements. Growing your plants in the right region makes them healthy. A healthy plant can easily fight off disease and pests. Therefore, understand the water requirements, sun exposure requirements, and temperature requirements of a plant. It helps determine if a plant can grow in your region or not. 
  • Keep the pots and containers clean. Some pests hide on dead flowers and leaves. Therefore, get rid of flowers and leaves that might be around containers. 
  • Always quarantine any new succulent before mixing it with your plant collection. During this time, watch out for signs of diseases or pests. Treat your plant if there are pests or diseases before setting it next to your plants. 
  • Using insecticides and pesticides. This is one of the recommended techniques, especially when preventing the infestation of different pesticides and insecticides. 
  • Regularly inspect your plants for pests or diseases symptoms. It helps detect an infestation on time before it spreads to the entire plant or your garden. 
  • Correctly identify the problem in case of an infestation. Always be keen on the symptoms displayed by a plant. It helps detect the correct infestation and come up with the proper treatment. ‘The right treatment controls the infestation and prevents it from occurring again. Therefore, confirm the infestation before administering any treatment on your plants. 
  • When it comes to deficiency diseases, choose healthy soil when planting your succulent plants. Healthy soil promotes the healthy growth of plants, which can comfortably fight off infections and pests.

Fighting Succulent Diseases and Pests 

Generally, there are two common ways of fighting pests and diseases, namely chemical and biological. These methods have effectively fought off pests and diseases. Understand these two methods and choose the best.

Chemical technique 

The chemical method helps fight succulent pests and diseases. However, this technique is all about administering poisonous substances to the pests. On the other hand, chemical pesticides serve to purpose, namely preventing and treating. 

A chemical Pesticides being applied on the plant.
Protection pesticides minimize the chances of your succulent plants being attacked when you least expect. 

Overall, no one can predict pests or disease infestation. However, protection pesticides minimize the chances of your succulent plants being attacked when you least expect. 

Pesticides treat different infestations. Detecting an infestation on time determines if the pesticide will be effective or not. In addition, pests and diseases require different pesticides. Therefore, proper diagnosis is essential before administering any treatment. 

Pros about Chemical method

There are numerous advantages why this technique is commonly used across the globe. Below are some pros worth checking out:

  • They are affordable, making it pocket-friendly to treat or protect your succulent collections. 
  • Pesticides are available for different pests and diseases. In short, there is a solution for different kinds of infestations.
  • This technique has a positive track record. The effectiveness and stability of the chemical method are practically witnessed across the globe. Therefore, administer the right pesticide to your plants and slowly witness your plants regaining their health.
  • Pesticides are effective for a long time. Hence, you don’t have to administer a pesticide to your succulent plants regularly.

Natural Method

As the name suggests, this technique uses natural methods to both prevent and treat infestations. This technique traces its origin to the 4th century. Start by setting a suitable environment for your succulent plants. This entails healthy soil, the correct water levels, enough sunlight, and nutrients.

A pot with different sets of plants
Natural methods entails healthy soil, the correct water levels, enough sunlight, and nutrients.

Also, remove dry leaves or dirt that might be around your plants. This is an excellent breeding place for some pests and viruses. Finally, regularly boost the nutrient levels in your soil so that your plants can absorb different nutrients. Test your soil to determine which nutrients should be boosted. A healthy plant efficiently fights off both diseases and pests. 

Another natural method is draining off excess water in the plants. Excess moisture is an invitation to pests and different diseases. When watering your succulent plants, focus on the roots, not leaves. It determines when the water is enough for your plant. 

Regularly observe your plants. This natural technique helps detect infected parts of your plant. Then, use clippers to cut off infected parts in your plants and throw them away.

Soapy water is also another natural ingredient you can use to protect your succulent collections.

Pros about Natural Method

  • You don’t have to worry about health hazards attributed to chemicals.
  • It is always effective, especially if diseases and pests can b discovered early before spreading to the entire plant.
  • At any given time, you won’t use any amount. This makes it cost-effective at any given time. 
  • You can easily monitor results then determine if it’s working or not. 

How to Safely Use Pesticides on Your Succulent Plants 

Pesticides come in different forms. Safely is paramount at all times, especially when administering to your plants. Below is a step by step guide on how to handle pesticides:

  • Read the instructions on your pesticide. A lot of people ignore the instructions accompanied by a pesticide. Always read the instructions before consuming a product. You will learn how the pesticide should be used, the amounts to use, and how it should be administered, among others.
  • Pay attention to the warning label. Some pesticides are harmful to plants, pets, and humans. Reading the warning label helps avoid accidents. Some pesticides are highly flammable, whereas others irritate when they come into contact with skin.
  • Always measure the right amounts of pesticides. The quantities you measure determine if the pesticide will be effective or not. Low amounts might prove ineffective against pests or diseases. On the other hand, high doses might affect your plants.
  • Mix only the amount you intend on using. Pesticides are reusable anytime, provided they have not expired.
  • Use safety equipment, especially if you are spraying the entire plant. Some pesticides cause a lot of irritation if they come into contact with skin. 

Bottom line

As you start your journey of taking care of your succulent plants, be prepared to fight off pests and diseases. Some plants might be treated, whereas others might have to be plucked or thrown away. It depends on when the condition was detected. Unfortunately, there are instances when pests and diseases spread to the entire plant, and nothing can be done.

Try your level best to keep the environment clean. It minimizes the chances of pests or viruses breading around your plants. Get rid of any dirt that might be a breeding ground for pests. This applies to succulent plants in gardens or containers. 

A plant being sprayed with water on the leaf.
You have to keep the environment clean since it minimizes the chances of pests or viruses breading around your plants.

Ensure your plants grow in the recommended conditions. Research the succulent plants that grow well in your region, and choose from the list. Water, sunlight, and the type of soil should also be kept in mind. They contribute to the healthy growth of your plants.

Don’t allow pests or diseases to spread before you take action. Separate the infected plant from other plants. Determine the pests or disease as soon as possible and the infection level. It determines if treatment is necessary or it’s too late. Ensure your plant is free from pests and disease before integrating it back with your succulent collections. 

Lastly, understand the symptoms of different pests and diseases. You should also know how your plants look like when healthy. This makes it easy to detect if something isn’t okay. Follow this guide and have a happy time growing and maintaining your succulent plants. Remember, early detection increases the chances of the selected treatment working. 

Ultimate Guide: How To Care For Buddhas Temple

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Buddhas Temple plant

The Crassula cv, also known as the Buddha’s Temple, is native to South Africa, and this plant resembles a Buddhist temple.

This evergreen plant’s leaves are folded at the edges and densely stacked, forming a unique wonderful square-shaped column similar to a buddha’s temple. 

To have the plant and let it thrive, caring for it requires some gardening knowledge related to the plant. Taking care of a Buddha’s temple will ensure it thrives well and blooms.

What Do You Need to Plant Buddha’s Temple?

Before purchasing your buddha’s temple for planting, ensure you have the following ready in case you are planting the plant indoors and some of the items for outdoor planting:

  1. A container for planting with drainage holes about one quart in size, or a potting container made for planting succulents and cacti.
  2. Coarse sand, enough for the surface of your container to be about ¾ full (about 1 quart)
  3. Perlite, which will help maintain the soil’s excellent drainage. Mix enough perlite with coarse sand, so it makes up about 50% of what you make into a potting mix; this would equate to ½ cup (100 ml) of coarse sand and ½ cup (100 ml) of perlite.

How to Plant Buddha’s Temple Plant

There are various ways you can plant your Buddha’s temple plant. You can purchase seeds, stem/leaf cuttings, or offsets. 

Many of us are used to planting common household plants from the leaves and stem cuttings, but you can also plant buddha’s temple from seeds, amazing right? Another thing, you can plant it any time of the year.


Here are the right procedures to propagate an offset and care for your new plant buddha’s temple to sprout:

  1. Mix 2 parts coarse sand with 1 part perlite to create a potting mix for succulents and cacti. Make sure there’s plenty of drainage in the soil, and it won’t cause water retention.
  2. Fill the container ¾ full with the potting mix, make a hole deep enough to support the original plant’s roots, and fill it with water until it’s soaked through; then let stand for 15 minutes to allow excess water to drain away.
  3. Plant the succulent in its new container using the soil mix. Make sure that the succulent is placed in a pot just a bit larger than its original pot. Also, ensure that the soil level in the new pot will accommodate all of its roots.
  1. Water thoroughly, allowing the water to soak into the soil and drip out of the drainage hole.
  2. Lastly, place the potting in bright sunlight (no direct mid-day sun). Keep soil moist but not soggy or wet!

How to Propagate Buddha’s Temple Plant From Seeds

  1. Purchase your seeds and prepare your potting mix. Proceed to water the potting mix and let it drain off excess water to leave the soil moist. 
  2. Take your seeds and place them on top of the soil with a little compost to help boost the soil nutrients for growth.
  3. Well, buddha’s temple might take some time before they germinate. Therefore you ought to be patient. During this period, do not water the soil until you note sprouting. It might take four weeks before you note sprouting from your seeds.
  4. Once the plants germinate, start exposing them to sunshine and care for them until they grow and bloom.
Seeds in the palm.
It might take four weeks before you note sprouting from your seeds.

How to Propagate Buddha’s Temple Plant From Cuttings

You can make a cutting from the stems or leaves and always make the cutting at the base of the leaf. It is also possible to cut a stem part and propagate it. Here is how to plant a Buddha’s temple from a scutting.

  1. Make a cutting and let your cutting stay for three days to dry and form a callus.
  2. Prepare a potting mix, and using a pot or your garden, water it to have it moist before the planting time. Ensure the area does not receive direct sunlight during the early stages of growth.
  3. Now, go ahead and place the stem or leaf cuttings one inch into the soil upright. Lastly, wait for your buddha’s plant to form new leaves and roots before repotting them onto their new home.
A group of buddha's temple plant in one pot.
You can make a cutting from the stems or leaves and always make the cutting at the base of the leaf.

Healthy Requirements for Your Buddha’s Temple Plant

Watering

like many succulents, Buddha’s temple does not require much water when growing. However, you should water it to ensure its growth does not stagnate. Water a buddha’s temple at least once every month during winter and twice a month in spring and summer. 

In spite of needing water to grow, you should be cautious of the amount of watering necessary for Buddha’s Temple plant. Too much water in the soil will damage your plant. Plenty of water will have the soil wet, and this will result in the roots rotting.

A boy watering the plant gently.
Buddha’s temple does not require much water when growing.

Before watering the plant, make sure it needs water by looking at how dry the topsoil is to avoid causing damage to the plant. 

Water the Buddha’s Temple after planting it, water at least once a week when fully grown also, you can use a humidifier always to let the soil be moist but not wet.

Sunlight

The variegated leaves of the ‘Buddha’s Temple are extremely delicate and require bright light for them to bloom and thrive. Growing this Crassula Buddha’s Temple in a garden ensures it receives plenty of sunshine. The ideal amount of light for its development is full to partial sunshine, or at least six hours a day. Therefore it is better to grow the plant outdoors.

A plant receiving a sunlight.
The ideal amount of light for its development is full to partial sunshine, or at least six hours a day.

Insufficient light or sunlight might cause the plant’s stem to weaken, and you don’t want to see your beautiful plant crumbling down after working hard to let it thrive. The plant will elongate in search of light, and in return, its stem might grow thin, making it weak.

Temperatures

The crassula Budda’s Temple thrives in a warm climate.  It may survive temperatures as low as 25°F and as high as 50°F but protect it from frost. If you reside in a chilly climate, it’s preferable to grow Buddha’s Temple indoors. The plant will thrive if given enough sunshine.

Fertilizer

You can use compost mulch to provide the plant with additional nutrients. Getting the plant to grow and thrive is something you don’t want to take a chance with.

For vital nutrients, use gardening fertilizer and ensure the fertilizer has the core nutrients:

  • Potassium
  • Phosphorus
  • Nitrogen

Follow the recommended dosage and add fertilizer to your plant every three months.

Pests

It’s susceptible to mealybugs. The Buddha’s Temple has a nice uniform structure, especially after new growth during the Spring and Summer months, and it is these leaves that make it hard to spot the pests.

Mealybugs are a problem with these plants since they have a tightly held together leaf structure, so if you get some mealybug caught in there, the only thing you can do is soak it in alcohol or dip it in alcohol and hope that they come off.

Pruning

Prune a  buddha’s temple when it has dead leaves, overgrown leaves, or to shape it. Also, you should prune the plant after blooming to help keep it healthy to thrive again. 

Discard the removed leaves to keep them away from contaminating the healthy plant. You can use them as an addition to your compost and for future use. 

Other Common Factors Affecting Buddha’s Temple to Note

Root Rot. When you overwater the plants or don’t let the potting mix dry before watering again, the plant’s roots will start rotting. To prevent root rotting, make sure the potting mix drains fast and effectively. Another thing for outdoors potted buddha’s plant, you are better off using clay pots. In case you have other pots, ensure they have good drainage.

Anchor Support. Buddha’s Temple doesn’t like going long without water. Since they’re not particularly succulent, there is so much moisture in the main stem; therefore, the plant is susceptible to decay. But the plant does not like going without water for long, which you will notice straight away. 

Once it loses water, they become difficult to support, and the rooting system is not as strong as other succulents, so you’ll need some anchor stones and bind them in place whenever they lack water, and the stem fails to support the whole plant.

Heat Sensitivity. Because they are sensitive to heat, forcing them to sit in direct sunshine all day is not a good idea. If exposed to too much sun, they will suffer burns, so keep them out of the hot sun for long periods. If you don’t provide consistent lighting, you’ll notice unevenness in how the plant grows.

Final Thoughts

Taking care of a dying buddha’s temple plant can be difficult, but why let your plant suffer? This plant requires little care, making it easier to look after and bloom. Besides, when it lacks water or sunlight, which are the core requirement for growing, it shows the signs earlier.

A buddha's temple plant.
This plant requires little care, making it easier to look after and bloom.

You can plant this evergreen plant in your garden or have it sit in your living room and brighten the space when it blooms. Note that it will reach 0.3m after ten to 20 years.

6 Golden Rules for Watering Lithops (Living Stone)

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Whether you call them lithops or living stones, they are simultaneously the easiest and the hardest succulent to care for. These plants are native in very arid regions, some receiving less than 4 inches of rain annually. Watering the lithops is the most essential care – and one part that most gardeners go wrong.

While all the succulents are adapted to storing water in their leaves, none does it so well like the lithops. When it comes to watering, these plants practically demand to be ignored. Lithops tend to fare far better with minor interventions than other plants. They have a very different watering cycle and below are 6 comprehensive and MUST READ rules and guidelines on how to water lithops.

1. Know When Lithops Needs Watering

Lithops can go for months without water. When in doubt, it’s best not to water the plant. When the plant is thirsty, it will always show some signs that show it should be watered. Your lithops will begin to wrinkle or sink in the pot.

Give your plant a light squeeze, and if it is soft, it’s time to water. Lithops grow better during the warm seasons. During the summer, the plant will enter its dormancy, and less growth is taking place. During this time, you are supposed to leave the plant alone. Do not water your lithops during this season.  

Sometimes during the dormancy, the leaves start to shrink; give your plant a little drink. During this time, use little water so that just the top inch of the soil is moist. Remember that this plant is good at retaining moisture, and it is self-sufficient when no growth occurs.

During the autumn, the plant starts another growth period, and it may require watering. During this time, water your lithops at most once every two weeks. The plants will begin to bloom at this period, and you’ll know it’s time to start watering again when the leaves begin to separate.

A freshly watered Lithops.
When the plant is thirsty, it will always show some signs that show it should be watered.

During the winter season, respect your lithops dormancy. Around this time, the old leaves of the plant will start dying, and new ones will begin to grow inside. Watering the plant at this stage could negatively affect the plants’ growth of the fresh leaves. Yes, it feels wrong to give lithops little water, but the plant will thank you for it.

2. Know How Often to Water your Lithops

Lithops grow underground because they don’t have a stem. These help the plant to retain a lot of moisture and do not require frequent watering. Lithops do well in the soak and dry methods like other succulent plants.

A watering can.
When watering lithops, drench the soil and wait until the pot is completely dry before watering again.

When watering lithops, drench the soil and wait until the pot is completely dry before watering again. The plant prefers to be left dry than to be overwatered which is the leading cause of lithops death in many places.

The plants need to be watered more during the autumn and spring. It does not require any water during the winter season. During the warmer climate, watering the plant once every two weeks is ideal. It’s a general thumb rule to follow, but the basic will always be to let the soil dry out first before watering.  

3. Water Lithops in a Fast-Draining Soil

Lithops grow well in fast-draining soil. Unlike other succulents, this plant requires a different soil type that will ensure maximum growth takes place. Lithops do well in a medium with very little organic matter but with many rocks. These will ensure that the soil doesn’t remain damp for long when watered.

Lithops on the pot.
Lithops grow well in fast-draining soil.

The optimal growing medium for lithops is coarse sand, perlite, gravel, pumice, or lava rocks. This combination will drain water quickly, leaving a little moisture for the plant. The soil content should be made up of approximately 1/5 soil, and the rest should be minerals.

When slow-draining soil is used for growing lithops plants, root rot starts to take place because soil retains water for a long time. The moist can also lead to the yellowing and muzzling of the leaves of your plant. Those are signs that your lithops are dying from much water. Typically, the potting medium should dry at most in three days.

4. Ensure your Lithops are in a Suitable Pot when Watering Lithops

Lithops prefer deep pots to wide ones. They tend to have a long root system that goes deep into the soil. When watering lithops, ensure that it is in a pot that has many holes at the bottom to drain excess water.

When watering lithops, it is essential you water it until it starts draining from the bottom of the pot. These will create a continuous flow of water; hence water is not retained in the soil for long. A suitable medium of soil should always follow a good pot.

A lithop in the pot.
Lithops prefer deep pots to wide ones.

Clay pots are the best pot when it comes to precautions of water retention. The porous material used in making the clay pot draws excess water surrounding the roots to its wall—this helps reduce the moisture content, disastrous to the plant.   

5. Stop Watering Lithops after Flowering

You need to remember only to water after the old leaves are dry and stop watering after the flowers begin to die. After flowering, new growth is forming, which comes down to the way lithops utilize water.

When the new plants are forming, the old leaves are the source of nutrients and water for the new plant. During this time, the roots are on pause. When you water the plant, you confuse the plant from using the water from the roots while actively absorbing it from the old leaves. This confusion can engorge the plant.

Again, after the old leaves have dried up, you can now give your lithops a deep watering. Wait until the water completely dries up before embarking on watering. Water it again when signs of wrinkles appear. If a month has passed and you can’t see some signs of wrinkles, and you haven’t watered them, you can moisten the upper layer of the soil.

After a month, with no sign of wrinkles, do not pour a lot of water into the plant. Moistening the top layer gives the roots a bit of moisture. There is a high chance that it is becoming dormant because of the heat and too much water can cause it to swell and split then dies.

6. Mornings represent Best time for Watering Lithops

When you want to water the lithops, especially during hot days, morning hours are the best hours. The temperatures are low, and the plant has enough time to draw enough water from the soil. By avoiding watering in the afternoon, you avoid having hot water seating on the plant, possibly burning the plant.  

A sunrise.
When you want to water the lithops, especially during hot days, morning hours are the best hours.

Watering this plant in the evening may not be a good practice. These may make the plant sit on the moisture for the whole night, attracting bacteria. Watering lithops in the morning gives space for the evaporation of excess water for the soil. Do not overwater the plant.

Lithops plant prefers less water. The leaves of the lithops are buffy because they store enough water for the plant. This rule is essential because many novice gardeners tend to overwater the plant, thinking they are helping the plant.

Signs of an underwatered lithops are the same as that of an overwatered one. Some of the common symptoms of overwatered lithops include yellow leaves, mushy stems, and rotting of the roots; brown spots on the lithops.

The two leaves may end up splitting or even notice the absence of the roots!! To save a lithops that has been overwatered, you need first to understand the problem.

Since overwatering is the most common cause of the death of this plant, let us look at how to save the plant from dying. I hope after it recovers you will follow the rules above well.

Steps to save overwatered lithops

  1. Remove the overwatered lithops from the pot
  2. Identify all the damaged roots and cut them out with a sharp knife
  3. Wash the remaining leaves in running water to remove the soil
  4. Using a proper disinfectant, disinfect the healthy part of the root system
  5. Using a new pot and new potting soil, repot the plant
  6. Use adequate watering habits moving forward to prevent future root rot

Bottom Line

Watering is the most essential part of caring for your lithops plant. When you follow the above rules correctly and keenly, the plant will flower during its time, and you will have it around you for a long time. Ensure you know when to water your plant and do it with the right amount of water and in the right soil content.

Before buying the plant for your garden, ensure that you have suitable potting soil and a proper pot that will drain the water well. Do not water the plant immediately until the shock period of the plant is over. With just a few lithops, you can get your seeds and increase your garden. Because they are tough, lithops are ideal for houseplants.

Can You Cut Off A Piece Of Kalanchoe And Plant It?

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Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) is a vast group of succulents native to Madagascar; this plant has distinct foliage with stunning blooms in some species. 

Some develop into a towering bush, while others creep along the ground, and still, there are those kalanchoes primarily used as houseplants.

Like any other succulent, the kalanchoe is easy to plant, maintain and look after until it blooms. If you are looking to plant one, stick around and find out how to get yourself one for decorating your home.

How to Propagate a Piece of Kalanchoe and Nature It?

You can plant kalanchoes from the stem, leaves, or offshoots. Ensure you cut the stem or offshoot appropriately for it to root and grow.

How to Cut a Piece of Kalanchoe for Growing

To remove a kalanchoe vegetative part, use a clean knife or small pruning shears to cut it cleanly away.  The vegetative part is a stem or offshoot that has no flower growing on it. Ensure the cutting is at least three inches long.

Before making the cutting, always sterilize the gardening tools for use. Doing this prevents any diseases or pests from spreading onto the new plant. You can use chlorine, household disinfectant, or isopropyl alcohol for sterilizing the tools.

A tool used to cut or prune a plant, pruning shear.
To remove a kalanchoe vegetative part, use a clean knife or small pruning shears to cut it cleanly away. 

How to cut kalanchoe:

Step 1: Wait until the kalanchoe has finished blooming or in the spring to make a cutting. 

Step 2: Sterilize your gardening tools.

Step 3: Make a sharp straight cut on the stem close to the main stem using a gardening shear or knife. A rugged cut may invite pests and diseases to attack.

Now you have your cutting with you. How do you go about planting your new Kalanchoe plant? 

How to Plant Kalanchoe Plant From Cuttings

Here is a step-by-step guide to planting your stem cutting for a new kalanchoe plant.

Step 1: Let Your Cutting Dry

After you’ve cut the stem away, it’s important to let it dry out. The cut on the stem will form a callous, keeping the cutting clean and disease-free. Depending on the thickness of the stem, this process might take anywhere from 1 to 3 days.

Dip the end of your cutting in a rooting hormone powder to promote rapid and healthy root development. Dipping into the rooting hormone should be done after the wound has healed.

Step 2: Plant Kalanchoe Cutting

Kalanchoe needs a soil mix that drains fast and well. Like every other succulents, they despise sitting in water, which is often the cause of root decay. Because of this, you can purchase soil specially mixed for growing succulents or cactus soil.

Alternatively, you can create a 2:1 soil mixed with peat moss and sand (you can use perlite. Adjust the proportion so that when watered, the soil is wet rather than soggy.

Plant the kalanchoe cutting on a big enough pot. However, keep in mind that once the plants sprout, they will require additional room.

A pot of soil.
Adjust the proportion so that when watered , the soil is wet rather than soggy

Fill the pot you’ve chosen with moist soil and gently press each cutting into the soil in an upright position.

The available humidity content determines how fast the plant will sprout. Cover the container with a clear plastic bag to increase the amount of moisture available to your plant.

Make a few slits or holes on the bag to allow for air circulation. Once the plants start growing, remove the bag.

Step 3: Wait for Kalanchoe to Grow

Immediately your kalanchoe starts growing, expose it to bright but indirect light. If in the house, place it on a south-facing window.

For outdoor kalanchoes, do not expose them to direct sunlight as this will cause their young leaves to suffer burns. Their growing temperature conditions should be above 50° F.

You should not water them while young but keep the soil moist. have a spray bottle or light water the plants during the early stages. When the soil becomes dry, it is the only time you can water your kalanchoe plant.

A yellow Kalanchoe.
This plant has distinct foliage with stunning blooms in some species.

When your cutting starts to have new stems and leaves begin to grow, you may begin caring for it as if it were a fully grown kalanchoe.

Grow Kalanchoe From Seeds

Kalanchoe seeds are very tiny, dust-like for every ounce you collect. You can purchase the seeds from a gardening store near you or crossbreed kalanchoe plants if you already have them and have a hybrid plant.

While propagating succulents from seeds is not an everyday thing, yes, you can grow a kalanchoe plant from seeds.

Seeds on the hand.
Kalanchoe seeds are very tiny, dust-like for every ounce you collect

Here is how you can grow the plant from seeds:

Step 1: Sow the seeds

Sow the seeds preferably during spring because of the good conditions for the seed to grow. You can initiate an artificial climate if you plant the seeds during winter; planting during winter is only conducive for indoor kalanchoes.

Have the seeds about an inch deep into a cactus mix soil or succulent soil. Secondly, offer warm temperature and moist conditions to enhance growth.

Step 3: Wait for the seeds to germinate

Have the seed pot or tray sit on an indirect light when the seeds start to germinate. If growing the seedlings outside, make sure to provide shade to the bed.

Immediately the seedlings sprout, make them accustomed to light. Expose the plants in the early morning or evening sun for a few minutes for indoor plants. Outdoor-grown seedlings, always uncover them to receive sunlight before covering them again with the shade.

Caring for Kalanchoe

The Kalanchoe plant requires care for it to grow and bloom. There are some conditions you should meet for the plant to thrive.

Feed the plant with fertilizer

During growth periods for new plants, fertilize kalanchoe. Every two weeks, use one-half to one-quarter of the manufacturer’s suggested amount of 20-8-20 fertilizer. 

Fertilize only when necessary and use it sparingly. Also, fertilize just during the early growth stages of your plants.

Pests and Diseases

Outdoor Kalanchoes are more vulnerable to pests. Spider mites, nematodes, aphids, and scale insects can all attack the plant.

Signs of pests infestation include torn or bitten leaves, honeydew on leaves, or faded leaves.

To treat kalanchoe for insects and avoid harming the plant, use non-toxic pesticides or other remedies available such as neem oil.

Watering

Kalanchoe has low water needs, most so outdoor kalanchoes. Only water those grown outside if the topsoil is dry.

The plants can withstand drought, although this will impact their growth.

For indoor kalanchoes, a clay pot is the best medium for planting them. Clay pots help keep the soil moist while draining excess water from the soil.

What is the right temperature for Kalanchoe?

Kalanchoes thrive well in temperatures between 65 to 85° F as they are tropical and subtropical plants. 

During winter, the plants require frost protection as they are sensitive to cold. However, in summer, prolonged sunlight exposure will damage the leaves. Plant them under a shade if outdoor-grown.

Pro Tip: To bloom the next season, kalanchoe requires 14-16 hours of total darkness for six weeks during the fall and winter.

Pruning

Some Kalanchoe plants may require pruning but often ensure your gardening tools are clean before you can begin.  

You should prune your kalanchoe plant when:

  • At the onset of the blooming period, and 
  • After the blooming period

Pruning during the blooming phase is to encourage new growth. This period is when you can also get yourself new cuttings for planting. Lastly, after the blooming period, pruning is to remove the flower stalks and extra stems to conserve energy for the plant.

Always be on the lookout for dead leaves or brown leaves. In case of any, remove them first as they might die and spread disease to the main plant.

After pruning, you should water less your plant.

Potting and Repotting

Kalanchoe plants love their space and spread a lot. You can always repot the plants once a year. Also, when repotting, always remove the offshoots and pot them separately; this will help make the plant thrive with less competition for nutrients.

Three kalanchoes in a pot.
You can always repot the plants once a year.

Always care and attend to the plants, especially when grown in your garden. If left unattended, they will grow and cover the whole garden.

Various Kalanchoe to Plant in Your Home

Kalanchoe plants have bright colors when blooming, and there are various colors you might want for your home. Here are various options to choose from for propagating:

  • Orange Varieties
  • Red and Magenta
  • White
  • Pink 
  • Yellow

Final Thoughts

Now you can easily cut a piece of kalanchoe and plant it. If you have the plant already and looking to grow more, reduce the cost of purchasing new plants. Good for you!

You can propagate many other succulents other than kalanchoe, and you can also try out different varieties of kalanchoe and decorate your home with this plant. Add some color and vitality to your home with this succulent.

Ultimate Guide: How to Care For String of Dolphins

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The String of Dolphins, commonly known as the Dolphin Plant, is a unique species of string succulents that resembles a group of leaping dolphins. The fleshy leaves, which look like dolphins, turn translucent under low light conditions. 

The petals form lovely clusters of delicate blooms with a cinnamon fragrance. In the wild, these creepers can get as long as 3 feet. When grown indoors, the tendrils cascade down in a dramatic display of greenery. This rare variety is not easy to find but is easy to keep happy. Read on for the basics of Dolphin Plant care.

Growth And Care

Generally, succulents are low-maintenance plants, including the Dolphin plant. Below are some factors worth considering for String of Dolphins to flourish:

The Planting Process

Getting your plant from scratch can be challenging. There is no assurance your Dolphin Succulent seeds will sprout when you grow them. Some seedlings may not even have the dolphin shape, so most people prefer cuttings or grown plants.

To plant the seeds:

  1. Please put them in a container with a great soil mix.
  2. Wrap the container and leave a few holes for aeration.
  3. Regularly water your seeds and wait for the seedlings to sprout.
  4. After sprouting, move the seedlings to an enormous container.

Light Requirements

Dolphin plants need plenty of indirect sunlight but can also tolerate low amounts of light because of the leaf windows. We suggest placing your pot next to a sunny south-facing window. Make sure your plant gets no less than six hours of morning sunlight daily. 

You can also use artificial sources to give additional light during low-light periods like winter. Shady locations increase the risk of root rot because of a lack of adequate light.

How Much Water Do Dolphin Strings Need?

String dolphins have fleshy leaves that can hold water for a long time, so they do not need regular watering. However, unlike most succulent plants, Dolphin Strings require slightly more watering.

Use the Soak and Dry method; give the plants a good soak of water up to the point of water running out the pot’s drainage hole. Wait until the soil is dried before watering again to prevent root rot. Water once every week from spring to early fall when active growth occurs and less frequently during the cooler winter and fall months. 

Underwatering is characterized by dry and flattened leaves, while squishy yellow leaves point

to more than enough water. Adjust your watering plan to suit your plant’s needs depending on the specific area conditions.

Temperature and Humidity

Dolphin plants do well in standard home temperatures and humidity levels. In contrast to other succulents, String of Dolphins can take cooler temperatures as low as 4 degrees Celsius during winter. Temperatures below this will destroy the plant because it is a soft succulent and cannot withstand a hard frost. During the growing season, we recommend about 72 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Soil and Drainage

Use a container that has drainage holes because the String of Dolphins can rot when overwatered. We recommend clay pots because they are porous and allow air and moisture to penetrate. The best soil/medium for the Dolphin Plant is a well-draining one.

String of dolphin in the pot.
Clay pot are porous and allow air and moisture to penetrate.

Commercially available soil mixes are available, but you can also come up with your succulent mix. Look out for soil mixes with excellent drainage and a good pH balance. To create your medium, mix two parts potting soil,1 part perlite and 1 part sand.

Pruning For Improved Growth

Prune dying leaves, or plant debris to encourage better growth. Use a clean kitchen knife or pruning shears to avoid diseases. Make clean incisions because too much damage will slow down growth and negatively affect your plant’s health. Do not cut through infected tissue as this will likely spread diseases.

Fertilizer

Feed your String of Dolphins lightly early in the spring when the plant is actively growing to encourage plant growth and blooming. If you over-fertilize the plant, the leaves will lose their dolphin shape. We recommend an organic fertilizer like worm compost. Limit your feeding to only once or twice a year.

Potting and Repotting

The string of Dolphins plants grow slow and, as such, do not require frequent repotting. However, Repotting creates more space to grow and enables you to remove any infection from the roots. 

Report this trailing succulent once every few years to replenish its potting medium and increase container size by a few inches, roughly 1-2. The plant is okay with being slightly root bound because this encourages bloom. 

A hanging string of dolphin.
The plant is okay with being slightly root bound because this encourages bloom. 

To start, you will need water, gloves, a slightly larger new pot, and a well-drained potting mix. Repot your plant in these easy steps:

  • Remove the Dolphin Plant gently from its original pot; you can do this by tilting the pot and lightly tapping the base and sides.
  • Using your fingers, loosen the roots. If the roots are very thick, snap off a little from the root ball.
  • Layer your new pot. Start with grit at the base for better drainage and fill the next layer with soil mix.
  • Transfer your root ball to the new pot and add more soil around the boundaries.
  • Shake the pot so that the potting medium fills the spaces between the roots and soil.

Water the soil first before transplanting to prevent the plant from experiencing a shock. When you are transplanting your Dolphin plant, lookout for any signs of decay. In case of any rot, prune the roots; pruning will decrease the chances of disease transmission and encourage growth.

Propagating

You can propagate your Dolphin plant from stem cuttings. To start, select a healthy stem with lots of leaves, preferably at least 2-3 nodes, for high chances of success. The nodes are points where new roots will emerge. 

Next, delicately cut beneath a leaf using a sharp kitchen knife or a pair of scissors. Pluck out the bottom leaves to lay bare the stem and let it dry for a few days. If you are propagating your stem cuttings in water, pluck the leaves from the bottom node to prevent the leaves from rotting.

A branch of plant being cut.
You can propagate your Dolphin plant from stem cuttings.

Once the cut ends have hardened, stick it on the soil and water it. Place the plant in areas with indirect light and adjust the light levels slowly over the next couple of weeks. Water the cutting once more after confirming that the topsoil is relatively dry. Once the roots form, add more water and don’t let the soil dry out completely.

How to Get String of Dolphins to Bloom

A mature String of Dolphins plant develops clusters of white flowers in the spring to early summer. The quality of flowers will largely depend on the care you gave your plant during the previous dormancy period. You can encourage blooming by trying out these easy hacks:

A freshly bloom flower.
The quality of flowers will largely depend on the care you gave your plant during the previous dormancy period.
  • Reduce temperatures to about 59 Fahrenheit from late autumn to early spring
  • Water your Dolphin Plant only when the soil is dried
  • Exposing your plant to 2-3 hrs of direct sun from late autumn to early spring for good dormancy.
  • Keep your plant slightly root-bound.

Pests and Diseases

The most common problematic pests for the Sting of Dolphins are spider mites and mealybugs. You can bring the infestation under control with early detection and treatment. Always treat any infestation with urgency. 

Spider mites spin webs beneath the leaves, and mealybugs resemble white cotton. Neem oil is effective against spider mites; the pungent smell repels the pests and is safe to use. You can also try spraying with cold water. To remove mealybugs, rub the leaves with cotton swabs soaked in alcohol. For larger infestations, spray the plants with 70% alcohol or isopropyl solution.

A woman touching the plants leafs.
Spider mites spin webs beneath the leaves, and mealybugs resemble white cotton.

Dolphin Plants diseases are mostly fungal issues caused by overwatering. To avoid these diseases, let the water dry out completely in between irrigation, use a well-draining medium, and plant in a pot with drainage holes to release excess water.

Why does my String of dolphins keep dying?

There are five reasons why your String of dolphins is dying:

  1. You are using a soil mix that is not porous and does not offer good drainage.
  2. Pest invasion
  3. You are overwatering your plant, which could lead to root rot
  4. You are not giving your plant enough water, and it is dehydrated.
  5. You are using a pot that is too big, leading to overhydration.

Is String of dolphins toxic to pets?

Unfortunately, String of dolphins is toxic to your furry friends. Keep the plant in a place that is not easily accessible to children as it can be mildly harmful to humans. Symptoms of poisoning include abdominal cramps, vomiting, skin irritation, and in more severe cases, liver failure.

Why do the leaves of my String of dolphins appear flat?

Your leaves are flat because your plant is not getting adequate light. Move the plant to a brighter location.

Bottom Line

Once you get a hold of these rare succulents, there’s no going back. The basics shared here are enough to get you going. With some love and care, these cuties will spruce up your living space.

Ultimate Guide: How To Care For Sansevieria Plant

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The Sansevieria plant is a tough and resilient houseplant that can survive in low light conditions. This hardy plant can grow from 4 to 6 feet tall with leaves up to 3 inches wide. The Sansevieria has long been popular as an indoor plant because of its ability to thrive without much care or attention. In fact, it’s so easy to care for that it is often given as a gift during the winter holidays. With just basic care every few weeks, this lovely perennial will provide years of enjoyment and satisfaction. We take a look at how to care for Sansevieria plant.

How do you care for sansevierias? For the plant to thrive, you need to use a well-draining succulent soil mix. Sansevieria does not like wet soil, so avoid overwatering. It can adapt to light changes so you can put it anywhere there is light. To accelerate growth, it is best to put it where there is ample sunlight until it reaches four inches. During winter, you might need to put your sansevieria in a warm room then bring it out when it gets warmer.

According to NASA’s Clean Air Study, sansevieria is one of the few plants that can be used to remove toxins from the air naturally. This guide will help you understand everything you need to care for the plant keep it healthy longer.

 Sansevieria Plant Varieties

Sansevierias are native to Southern Asia and Africa but can be found in most parts of the world. The five types of sansevierias have their unique features listed below:

  • Dracaena trifasciata “Hahnii” – Also called bird’s nest snake plant, it only grows to six inches and the leaves look like a bird’s nest.
  • Dracaena trifasciata “Laurentii”  – Its margins have a creamy yellow color. This type has to be divided when propagated.
  • Dracaena trifasciata “Twisted Sister”  – Its leaves are twisted and have horizontal stripes with yellow edges. This type grows up to 14 inches tall.
  • Dracaena pearsoniiis – Commonly known as rhino grass, it grows to 12 inches tall and its leaves are succulent and tinted red.
  • Dracaena trifasciata “Bantel’s Sensation – This variety grows up to three feet tall and its narrow leaves have white vertical stripes.

How to Care for Your Sansevieria Plant

Sansevieria is easy to care for. All you need to do is follow the simple instructions listed below and you are good to go.

Light

Sansevierias are highly adaptable and can thrive in different kinds of light. It prefers bright or medium indirect light but can grow well under low lights and direct sunlight.

Water

Only water your plant when the soil is completely dry. Water until you see the liquid flowing down the drainage hole and ensure that no water remains in the saucer.

A plant being watered.
Have specific times for watering and not wait until the plant is too dry.

Temperature

The plant thrives in warmer temperatures ranging between 55-85 degrees. Avoid keeping the plant under temperatures of under 50 degrees.

Humidity

Sansevierias grow well in dry environments so there is no need to increase the humidity levels.

Food

Use liquid fertilizer to feed the plant at least once every six months. You can also use mild cactus fertilizer that you dilute to half strength. Do not fertilize the plant during winter.

A woman giving a fertilizer to the plant.
Do not fertilize the plant during winter.

Planting and repotting

The best time to plant and repot sansevieria is during spring. When potting sansevierias, ensure that you use a durable pot as weak pots can break due to the strong roots. The plant is a slow grower and rarely needs to be repotted. If exposed to ample sunshine, it might experience a growth spurt that makes it necessary to repot.

Toxicity

Sansevieria is toxic to humans and pets. Ingesting the plant can irritate the mouth and stomach and, can lead to vomiting.

Soil

Sansevierias prefer well-draining soils as they are succulent plants. You can use cactus potting soil to plant it.

A plant being transferred.
The plant is a slow grower and rarely needs to be repotted.

Pruning

When pruning sansevierias, ensure you use sterile scissors, shears, or knives. Remove the leaves at the soil line as well as any mature or damaged leaves to encourage the growth of new leaves. Control the height of the plant by pruning the tallest leaves.

Pruning is best done during the growing season; spring. When done during the off-season, the plant can get stressed, and this can affect its health.

Common issues with sansevieria

Although largely believed to be a resistant plant, sansevieria are also susceptible to pests and diseases. These may range from the leaves curling to the plant turning yellow or root rot.

Here is why it happens and how to prevent it.

Blades curling on your sansevieria

Sansevieria can go for weeks without being watered, and it is common to put too much water. When the plant is overwatered, the leaves fold. However, they curl when the plant is left dry for too long. The plant also droops and can start turning brown. You can prevent the plant from being completely dry by ensuring that you water it when you notice it is 50% dry.

If you find your plant was dry for too long, give it a soak, and here is how you do it:

  • Put your plant in the tub or sink and fill it with water. The water should be 3-4” high.
  • Let your plant soak up the water through the drainage hole for about 45 minutes.
  • Feel the top part of the soil and see if the water has reached the top 2 or 3 inches. If not, you can lightly water to speed up saturation.
  • When the soil is damp, drain the sink and let the plant rest while it continues draining. Afterward, place the plant on the saucer and put it in its original spot.

Sansevieria turning yellow

There are different reasons why your plant might be turning yellow including the following:

Moisture

Proper soil moisture is important when it comes to the care of sansevierias. The main reason the leaves turn yellow is the plant being overwatered. Sansevierias do not need too much water to thrive as the roots can rot and die. To prevent this, ensure the plant drains well and avoid using too much water.

Watering consistency

You can stress the plant by inconsistency in your watering, and this can lead to the plant developing yellow leaves. To prevent this, have specific times for watering and not wait until the plant is too dry.

Pests

When sansevieria becomes weak, it is likely to get infested with insects. Spider mites can drain moisture from the plant, making it turn yellow. These and other bugs are commonly found in house plants and can spread to the leaves and blades of the plant. The pests can make your plant suffer from serious nutrient deficiency that accelerates the yellowing.

Stinky soil

If you notice a rotting smell from your plant, it likely has root rot. Root rot occurs when the roots are exposed to a lot of water. You can avoid it by ensuring that the soil is well-drained at all times.

Droopy or falling leaves

When sansevierias are healthy, the leaves are erect and grow upwards. The plant will appear droopy if there is too much water or the light is not enough. To prevent this from happening, you can reduce the watering frequency, change the soil to one that drains better, and put the plant in a location with better lighting.

A sansevierias being given with enough sunlight.
The leaves are erect and grow upwards when the it is healthy.

Care during winter

Sansevierias can die when exposed to low temperatures (under 50 degrees) for too long. During winter, you can bring the plant indoors and keep it in a warm place. It is best to keep the soil on the drier side as the plant goes into a state of dormancy. Water the plant every six weeks or when you notice the soil is more than 50% dry.

How to grow snake plants using seeds

While it is faster and easier to propagate sansevieria plants, they can also be grown using seeds. However, the seeds have low germination, and it takes between three and six weeks for a seedling to sprout.

A healthy Sansevieria Plant.
The Sansevieria plant has been a favorite of indoor gardeners for many years.

To grow snake plants using seeds, fill a three-inch pot with potting mix or seed starting soil. Sprinkle the snake plant seeds on the soil and put them in a warm and sunny place. Cover the pot with plastic wrap to retain humidity and warmth. Once a seedling sprouts, you can remove the wrap and ensure the soil remains moist and not wet. You can report the plant once it is about four inches tall.

Final Thoughts on Sansevieria

It is no surprise that this resilient succulent has remained popular for so long. Thanks to its unique and exotic appearance, the Sansevieria plant has been a favorite of indoor gardeners for many years. You do not need to be a green thumb to grow this houseplant, but you may need to learn how to care for Sansevieria plant as a beginner. The above tips and tricks will help you to do just that. Get the most out of your Sansevieria plant by following these foolproof guidelines for how to care for the Sansevieria.

How to Make Succulents terrarium?

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Succulents Terrarium

A terrarium is any glass or container vessel with soil and plants. These types of gardens require low maintenance. Therefore, it can easily be incorporated in an office or home setting. Terrariums create an ecosystem that supports plant growth. You can come up with any environment, be it rainforest or desert, among others. Besides, terrariums allow you to be as creative as possible.

Succulent plants are examples of plants you can grow in your terrarium. These plants grow well in soil or arid conditions. Succulent terrariums are popular because they give you numerous planting options. In addition, a lot of people prefer open succulent terrariums because they allow plants better airflow. Open terrariums also reduce the risks of molds and condensation, which can shorten the lifespan of your succulent plants.

At the same time, some people prefer closed succulent terrariums since they require zero maintenance. However, this is limited to specific succulent plants since not all can survive in such an environment.

Succulent terrariums are an excellent choice, especially for those new to terrariums. You will have an easy time growing your collections. Furthermore, any succulent terrarium setting looks good.

The Different Succulent Plants

Thousands of plant species are categorized under succulents. However, each plant has its particular requirements in terms of water, light, and lifespan. Therefore, carefully choose plants with the same conditions when setting up your succulent terrariums.

Succulent plants can be categorized as follows:

  • Low light: These succulent plants can survive in areas with low or dim light. Mood moss, sheet moss and pillow moss are example of succulent plants that can survive under low light.
  • Bright light: There are plenty of succulent plants to choose from under this category. Such plants thrive in open terrariums. Haworthia, Sempervivum, and Echeveria are examples of succulent plants that thrive well in bright light.
  • Medium light: These plants grow well in close terrariums. Examples of these plants are Nerve plant and Oxalis triangularis.
Succulents low light
Succulent plants can survive in areas with low or dim light

Keep in mind the following things before making a succulent terrarium:

  • Determine the size of the terrarium you intend on setting up. The size of the plants influence the size you will come up with.
  • Choose the plants you will plant in your terrarium. You can choose a single plant species or mixture. The plants you choose determine the environment you will set in your terrarium.
  • Available materials when setting up your succulent terrarium. Ensure all the necessary materials are readily available before setting up your portable garden.
  • Decide where you are going to place your terrarium. Plants in a terrarium should receive the required sunlight or humidity levels to properly grow.

Setting up a Succulent terrarium

Materials needed to set up succulent terrariums vary, depending on the type of terrarium. You can either set up an open or closed terrarium. Setting up a succulent terrarium requires specific items, namely:

  • Succulent plants
  • A glass or plastic container
  • Soil
  • Sheet moss
  • Rocks
  • Charcoal or perlite
  • Garden trowel

Step by step guide for making Succulent terrariums

You can set up either an open or closed terrarium. An open terrarium is recommended for succulent plants because of low humidity levels. Choose a transparent container or glass for an excellent view of your portable kitchen. Ensure the selected glass or container is clean. Determine the size of plants for an idea of how long the terrarium should be. Remember, plants shouldn’t be so squeezed inside the terrarium.

Now, pick some rocks and place them at the bottom of your glass or plastic container. Rocks help with aeration and drainage. Be reasonable when arranging rocks inside your container. For the next layer, you can use either charcoal or perlite. Perlite or charcoal reduces condensation, attributed to foul odors and fungus growth. 

A plant in the glass
An open terrarium is recommended for succulent plants because of low humidity levels.

Set up the next layer using sheet moss. Soak Sheet moss in water for a minute. Remove from water, squeeze and place on top of the rocks. Generally, sheet moss ensures soil or charcoal doesn’t sift into the rocks.

Finally, the soil is at the top of the succulent terrarium. It is advisable to have at least 3 inches of ground for your terrarium. Use a garden trowel and dig a small hole inside your terrarium. Plant your succulent collections and pack the soil around the plants.

Now lightly water your terrarium. Avoid overwatering your plants at any given time. Place different decorative materials at the top of the soil. Now, place your terrarium in a visible spot, either in your house or office.

 How to Properly Take Care of Your Succulent Terrariums

Succulent terrariums, like any terrariums, require care. People prefer succulent terrariums because of their low maintenance. Caring for plants is paramount if you want them to be healthy.

Below are effective ways of taking care of your succulent terrariums:

  • Pruning: Terrariums have limited space and soil. This why pruning is vital for plants growing in terrariums. It ensures your succulent plants don’t outgrow your terrariums at any time. Also, pruning gives plant a neat look. Unhealthy or infested parts should also be trimmed off before they spread to the entire succulent plant.
  • Watering: The type of succulent plants grown in your terrarium determines the watering frequency. Avoid overwatering your plants, since it is a breeding ground for bacteria, fungi and different diseases. You should also give soil time for moisture to dry out before watering your plants.
A watering can.
Avoid overwatering your plants, since it is a breeding ground for bacteria, fungi and different diseases.
  • Light: Succulent plants require different amounts of light. Some require plenty of light, whereas others can thrive in medium or low light. Therefore, give your succulent plants sufficient light since it plays a crucial role in their growth.
  • Cleaning your terrariums: Condensation and dust are two maintenance issues for terrarium owners. Regularly clean your terrariums, especially moisture reduce the chances of fungus breeding in your portable garden. Dust interferes with the appearance of your terrarium.
  • Nutrients: Plants require nutrients to thrive under any condition. Add fertilizer on your terrarium at least twice a year, preferably organic fertilizer.
  • Quarantine: Always quarantine your plants before planting them in your terrarium with other plants. It helps confirm if they are disease and pest free. Therefore, keep an eye for symptoms of infestation.

Warning signs to watch out on your Succulent Terrariums

Pests and diseases might attack your succulent terrariums. In most instances, pests and diseases attack your plant when you least expect them. Understanding these problems helps determine the quickest ways of reviving your succulent plants. Examples of these problems include:

A plant inside the jar.
A terrarium is any glass or container vessel with soil and plants.
  • Leaves turning yellow: Are your succulent plants turning yellow? This is most likely caused by overwatering your plants. This is the leading cause of succulent plants’ death. Succulents can’t survive in soil with excess water for long.  Consequently, these plants don’t thrive well in wet areas. Therefore, limit how you water your terrarium and understand the water requirements of your plants. Replant your plant in a dry soil if it exhibits yellow leaves. Now, give your plants a few weeks to recover.
  • Brown spots: In most instances, brown spots indicate pest infestation. These brown spots spoil the color of your succulent plants. Isolate your terrarium if you notice brown spots on your plants. Afterward, spray pesticides on plants in your terrarium. Observe your terrarium for a week or so until the brown spots start disappearing.
  • Wrinkling leaves: Overall, succulents can stay for long without water. However, don’t completely ignore them. Regularly water your plants or the leaves will start wrinkling and eventually drop off. Wrinkled leaves are a sign plants in your terrariums are receiving less water.
  • Stretched leaves: Your succulent plants in terrariums require enough sunlight. If kept in darkness for long, the leaves can stretch to the sunlight direction. This is referred to etiolation. Ensure your succulent plants get enough sunlight.

The Best Succulent Plants for Terrariums

Not all succulent plants can be planted in terrariums. Therefore, research the best succulent plants before making a decision. Some of the recommended succulent plants for terrariums include:

  • Jade plant: This is among the easy to care succulent plants.  Jade plant is recommended for indoor since it blends with any decision. An open terrarium is the best option for this plant. Unlike most succulent plants, this plant requires regular watering. Watch out for leaf spots or lose leaves on your terrarium. It’s an indication this plant isn’t receiving enough water.

How to Make a Venus Flytrap Terrarium?

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flytrap terrarium

Venus flytraps are a fascinating species. Originating in North and South Carolina, this carnivorous plant is one of nature’s greatest marvels. The Venus flytrap can grow up to 5 inches in diameter and thrives in moist and acidic soil. Each plant ordinarily has around six stems with pivoted leaves.

The edges of the leaves are fixed with “teeth,” and the leaves fit together like a clamshell. They form a trap when the leaves snap shut, snaring their prey, primarily insects. 

The popularity of this particular plant in the United States and Europe is relatively high. No wonder more and more people are opting to keep a venus flytrap terrarium. If you have been considering getting a venus flytrap and are unsure where to start, we hope you will be more informed and ready to make that decision by the end of this article. In this read, you will learn more about venus flytrap varieties, where to buy, how to set up and take care of your terrarium. So let’s get right into it. 

Step by step guide to setting up your terrarium

The terrarium will determine the container you choose you would like to build and the size. You can go for large bowls, glass containers, or fish tanks. The glass jars should have a stable base and glass lids. Avoid plastic containers and metal lids as they tend to cause overheating.

The best terrarium is an open terrarium as fly traps require a lot of sunlight and good airflow. You can gather all your supplies, which may include: Sphagnum moss, perlite, activated carbon, soil, pebbles, distilled water, and your chosen fly trap plant.

An open terarrium
The best terrarium is an open terrarium as fly traps require a lot of sunlight and good airflow

  Also, you need a sieve, tablespoon, and paper towels. You can easily set up your terrarium by following these three steps:

Step 1: Soil / Moss Mix

Venus flytraps require good soil to survive; however, they rarely grow in areas with good soil. Excessively nutritious soil can cause your plants to develop issues as they mostly absorb nutrients from insects. Since flytraps thrive in poor soil formation, you will need to come up with as close as possible to their natural habitats. 

A sack of soil.
They rarely grow in areas with good soil.

There are various soil recipe suggestions for Venus Flytraps. We recommend nutrient-free materials that will not cause health threats to the plants, such as Sphagnum moss, Silica sand, perlite, and Sphagnum peat moss. You can mix these materials in this ratio: 50% perlite + 50% sphagnum mix; alternatively, you can improve the sphagnum moss. The materials can be sourced individually in local stores or online; if you feel that this would be too much work, you can buy premade soil mix.

Step 2: Layering

After coming up with the ideal soil mix, the next step is layering in these easy steps. 

Layer 1: Carbon

You can maintain the cleanliness of your terrarium by using activated carbon as it destroys odors and helps remove toxins. Scoop up about a tablespoon of activated carbon and rinse using a sieve. Run your carbon thoroughly under water to remove excess carbon dust. Pour it into your glass jar once clean.

To avoid rot caused by waterlogging, you can use glass pebbles as your base. Artificial grass is recommended as natural pebbles can ooze slowly into the water with contaminants like calcium leading to the death of the plants. In case you prefer soil, add a tablespoon on top of the carbon. Please note that the soil and carbon should not be mixed.

Layer 2: Moss Mix

Take a small amount of your moss mix, preferably a pinch. Moisten with distilled water; alternatively, you can use aquarium dechlorinator drops to a mud-like consistency. Add a few drops to your tap water for instant de-chlorination. Pick out any unwanted debris in your moss. Place the moss on top of your carbon layer. Remember, the layers must be kept separate; do not mix or use fertilizer. Do not press, instead leave it compact and fluffy.

Setting up an Terrarium.
Avoid plastic containers and metal lids as they tend to cause overheating.

In case you go for pebbles, you can use a thin layer of long-fiber sphagnum moss to soak up the standing water in the pebbles. The layer between the pebbles and the soil prevents the shredded moss and perlite from falling into the rock layer. Next, you can add the moss mix comprising the 50/50 mix of sphagnum moss and perlite.

Always use distilled/ dechlorinated/ reverse osmosis water and never use fertilizer.

Step 2:Setting Up

Most plants in local garden stores come either bare root or loosely packed. If the plant is not bare root, carefully remove the pots to get the roots free. On the other hand, suppose they come in plastic starter cups; you can gently remove the plant. 

How do you transfer the plant? Hold it near the base, twisting it backward and forwards up until the plant becomes free. Avoid tugging or pulling abruptly as this might damage the plant. Do not disturb the roots in case a clump of moss comes up with the plant. You don’t have to work with entirely fresh moss; reuse the material that the flytrap came in.

Next, delicately place the plant and ensure that the base is firmly supported by the moss but not stuffed or squeezed. Add a glass lid but remove once a week for free oxygen exchange. Add whatever you wish to at this point, for example, accent plants and decorations. When done, that is it! Your Venus flytrap terrarium is all set.

Venus Flytrap Varieties

Though the venus flytrap has only one species, “Dionaea muscipula,” horticulturists have come up with different varieties of the flytrap based on special features. The distinguishing characteristics of these varieties are mainly color and leaf forms. There are many venus flytrap cultivars, but we’ll explore a few based on color, trap mutations, and trap sizes:

Venus flytrap has only one species, “Dionaea muscipula,” horticulturists have come up with different varieties of the flytrap based on special features.

Color

Red Dragon

Popularly known as ‘Akai Ryu,’ ‘Red Dragon’ is a perfectly captivating cultivar of Dionaea, which has sparked interest repeatedly. This variety can reach an enormous size in summer and is characterized by a deep dark maroon color if grown in bright light but turns green in poor light.

Green Dragon

The Green Dragon is a vigorous grower which can produce huge traps. A mutation of the Red Dragon Venus Flytrap, this cultivar can be distinguished from the former by its bright green trap edges with red leaves or reddish-purple trap interior. 

Justina Davis

Justina Davis is an all-green plant. This feature makes Justina Davis stand out from other flytrap varieties as it does not develop red coloration. This beauty is an upright grower with slender stalks. One of the hardiest flytraps ever grown as it can survive freezing temperatures.

Trap Mutations

Trap mutations result from tissue culture mishaps, which may result in the inability to catch prey. The mutants are loved and loathed in equal measure.

Fused Tooth

The fused tooth variety can get very large. Though the young plants look normal, mature plants form with teeth and fuse to look like bear traps with irregularly merged spines. The webbed teeth appear in the summer.

Red Piranha

The trap edges are jagged and have short-fused triangular teeth, which resemble the fierce piranhas. The marginal spines are similar to the ‘Dentate Traps’ variety. They are highly sought after due to their deep red coloration.

Cupped Trap

This unusual cultivar produces small traps which are fused toward one side to form a striking cup shape. During the development process, the trap spines are coiled longer resulting in oddly cupped tips. However, this does not affect its insect-catching ability.

Trap sizes

Petite Dragon

The Petite Dragon is a distinctly small cultivar that can only attain a maximum of 17mm in size. In mature plants, the flower stalk splits into two stalks. This small carnivorous plant has swiveling traps and four to seven leaves, which form underground trunks.

B52

This is one of the most prevalent cultivars. The plants clump and produce large traps. The massive traps can get as long as 2 inches. This famous cultivar exhibits vigorous growth; no wonder it’s one of the top contenders for the most extensive traps in the world.

Where to Buy

You can get a Venus Flytrap plant for as low as $10, and the purchase can be more economical if you buy more than one. Assuming that you’re simply beginning, you can find essential species at your neighborhood garden store. They are placed near the register in tiny plastic pots as a spur of the moment purchase items. Hardware and grocery stores like Walmart are also good options.

Before you buy the plant, ensure that it is in good condition by looking out for discoloration. If you are looking for larger varieties, the best place would be specialty nurseries. However, mature plants and particular types are more costly. Therefore, when buying, you can opt for seedlings, young venus flytraps, mature plants, or flytraps inside terrariums. Should you go for the terrarium option, we recommend buying one that is not entirely sealed to enable the plant to attain maximum growth.

flytrap terrarium
They form a trap when the leaves snap shut, snaring their prey, primarily insects. 

Online garden supply retailers can be great options with many selections from all over the world. Still, you must be cautious as some can arrive in poor condition or be entirely different from what you ordered. Amazon has a large selection of venus flytraps and related supplies. When buying online, the best thing to do is seek reviews for reputable online suppliers to avoid getting scammed. Once you have identified and bought your desired variety and supplies, the next step is to set up your terrarium.

Caring for your Venus Flytrap Terrarium

Venus flytraps live in their natural habitat for years, but most are short-lived in cultivation because of improper care. So first, understand what your plant needs to provide the best environment. Venus flytraps thrive in humid, acidic soil with plenty of sunshine. If you would like your plant to flourish as in its native setting, please follow the essential tips below:

Soil

As earlier discussed in this article, we saw that Venus flytraps do well with nutrient-free soils, which is why the first thing you need to do is to choose the best growing medium. Avoid garden/regular potting soil. Instead, go for peat moss and perlite mix or long fiber sphagnum. You can mix equally or opt for two parts to one. Never add compost, lime, or fertilizer to the soil, as these will kill your plant.

Light Levels

The best light for Venus flytraps is bright but not direct. Avoid too much direct sunlight, especially in summer, as the leaves will become crispy due to this. Your plant will require at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. In the growing season, you can place the plant under artificial lights for 10-12 hours every day and keep the flytraps 4-7 inches away from the fluorescent lights.

A plant receiving an indirect sunlight
Avoid too much direct sunlight, especially in summer, as the leaves will become crispy due to this.

Artificial full-spectrum lighting makes terrarium growing relatively simple though natural sunlight provides the strongest UV light. If your plants get less than the required light, they will be vulnerable to diseases and weak in addition to slow growth. You can tell that your plants are not getting adequate light if the leaves appear long and thin or if the trap’s inside is not pink.

Watering

Keep the terrarium moist at all times; never allow it to dry out completely. Water your plants daily during the hottest parts of summer to avoid elevated soil temperatures. Never water your plants using tap water; instead, use distilled or rainwater. 

Plants being watered
Water your plants daily during the hottest parts of summer to avoid elevated soil temperatures.

Alkaline water has chlorine, or dissolved minerals will kill the plants. To water your flytraps, you can set the pot’s base in a saucer of water once every few days. To steer clear away from the risk of rot due to overwatering, don’t drown the plant’s crown.

Repotting

The act of transferring a plant from one pot to another, usually a large one, gives the plant room to grow. Repot big plants every year; for smaller plants, you can repot once every two years. Make sure that you change the medium every time you repot your plant. The best time is early in the spring or late in the winter. If you choose to report at any other time, do not tamper with the roots. Instead, use a tall pot that can allow for long roots when repotting. With enough space to grow, your fly traps will grow faster and be more robust. Large pots also protect your plants during the winter.

Repotting a Cactus.
The act of transferring a plant from one pot to another, usually a large one, gives the plant room to grow.

Dormancy Care

Venus flytrap plants become dormant during autumn because of low temperatures and shorter days. The leaves darken and die, and the plants stop growing. Don’t worry about dormancy since your plant is just resting, not dead. The period lasts for about three or four months. Do not throw away your plant; instead, find alternative ways of caring for it.

During the dormancy period, place your plant in an excellent location. Though the plant will not require much light in this state, place it near a window. Keep the plant humid at all times during winter dormancy. Be careful not to let the terrarium freeze as this may lead to glass breaking and the plants dying. You can prevent your plant from freezing by covering it with black plastic. The best temp is 35 to 50°F. Once spring arrives, you can move your plants back to your living space and increase warmth and light. Clip off any dead leaves hanging on to your plant for new leaves and flower buds to sprout.

Feeding

The flytraps’ main diet is insects. Its main tools are a net for trapping insects and terrarium tweezers to feed the bug to your plant. Trigger hairs inside the plant trigger the trap to close if the insect’s movement is in quick succession, so you can only feed your plant on alive prey. 

A fly being fed on the Venus fly trap.
The flytraps’ main diet is insects.

Release the flies into the container. The insects should not be more than a third of the trap size. Once the trap is closed, digestive enzymes are produced, and the plants absorb the nutrients in the insect. Feed your plants only two bugs at most per month. Never feed the flytrap during winter dormancy. Also, don’t feed your plant any other kind of meat.

Conclusion

There are contrasting opinions on whether growing venus flytraps in a terrarium is a good idea. Those of a different opinion suggest that poor drainage in the terrariums and overheating will lead to the death of the flytraps. However, with a little bit more care and application of the tips shared in this article, there is no reason your flytrap should not thrive in your terrarium. So, what are you waiting for? Grow Venus flytraps today.

4 Golden Rules For Watering A Desert Rose

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Adenium obesum, commonly known as desert rose, is a stunning slow-growing plant that requires little attention. Its succulent trunk, pink flowers, and delicate leaves make it an ideal bonsai plant. It is native to the Middle East and Africa but can be found in stores worldwide for home gardening. The Desert Rose has it all. Gorgeous blooms in the early spring, vivid red berries in summer, and masses of festive blossoms at winter’s peak.

So, what are the rules for watering a desert rose? Well, desert rose plant has varying water requirements depending on the temperature and season. For example, in late spring, keep the soil moist but not saturated. In colder months, reduce the watering cycles and only water once a month or so.

Improper watering is one of the leading causes of desert rose withering and death.  As such, it is important to learn how to properly water desert rose plants so that they can thrive and continue blooming. Following a few simple guidelines makes these flowers easy to grow, and the rewards are enormous. Read on to get golden tips on how to water desert roses.

1.   Know when to water a desert rose

Desert roses do not require much water to survive in their native environments. However, to grow them in a domestic setting, water them skillfully to achieve the desired level of growth and flowering.

A pink desert rose.
To grow them in a domestic setting, water them skillfully to achieve the desired level of growth and flowering.

Always ensure you have the right lighting requirements when watering a desert rose.

These plants are accustomed to desert conditions. This means you need to get them as much light as possible. Lighting in itself does not influence when you need to water the plant, but if you place it outside where it gets more direct sunlight, the soil might dry more quickly, thus requiring more frequent watering.

Does soil affect when to water?

Desert roses need dry, rough, well-drained desert soil to survive. As a result, soil doesn’t influence when you need water unless you use poorly draining soil. In such a case, you’ll need to water less often, but you’ll still run the risk of drowning the roots in the wet soil.

2.   Mind your water quantity and frequency

As its name suggests, the desert rose is a desert plant that requires very little water to grow and flower. However, when grown at home, it requires varying water requirements in different seasons.

In general, desert roses need to be kept in moist but never soggy soil. If the roots are exposed to too much moisture, they will rot, effectively killing the plant. This makes the soil with good drainage all the more important.

To keep the soil moist, water regularly but take care not to overdoing it. For example, in summer, you can water it once every 10 days or whenever it looks parched. On the other hand, in winter, you only have to water it once a month or so since the plant is dormant at this point in time.

A desert rose with water droplets.
The desert rose is a desert plant that requires very little water to grow and flower.

As a golden watering rule, use the soak and dry method. Dig up the top few inches of the soil to check if it’s dry. If that’s the case, you can water the plant.

Another tip you can use is to check the plant’s caudex. If your plant is well hydrated, the trunk should be swollen, proportionally to the size of your plant.

Watering desert rose from a can

During the plant’s active growth season, use the soak and dry method to check if the soil is dry. Whenever that’s the case, place the pot in a plastic saucer and water it slowly using a can from the bottom up.

Once the soil has absorbed it and looks moist, it’s enough to last several days. In extreme drought conditions, water plants in the same landscape deeply. You can do this by slow dripping them for several hours during the cooler parts of the day.

3.   Avoid under-watering or over-watering a desert rose

Since desert rose is a drought-resistant plant, under-watering it might not take as much toll on it as it would on other plants. Under-watering is only an issue when the plant is in its active growth period. Still, the plant is likely to take a long time to die from under-watering.

However, if you notice leaf loss or the trunk is proportionally thinner than expected, it’s an indicator of under-watering.

Unlike under-watering, over-watering is a major issue for desert roses. In fact, an over-watered desert rose will rot much faster than other succulent plants.

Desert rose roots are sensitive to too much moisture. Once they are drowned in water, they rot and eventually kill the plant.

Always ensure that the soil is not flooded at any point. The best way to do this is to use little amounts of water to irrigate the plant at a time.

Immediately you notice that the soil is soggy, reduce the amount of water and watering frequency. You can then move the plant to a more sunny location where it will use up the water quickly.

4.   Watering desert rose seeds needs extra caution

When propagating desert rose from seeds, soak them for a day before planting them. You can then plant them in moist but non-soggy soil for a week to 10 days.

A young desert rose.
Desert roses don’t need to be irrigated with a special type of water.

Keep the soil moist by watering it whenever it looks dry. However, remember not to over-water; else, you run the risk of drowning the growing roots.

Desert roses don’t need to be irrigated with a special type of water. Almost any type of non-toxic water will work just fine.

Other ways to take care of a desert rose

Apart from watering, you can do a few other things to ensure your desert rose is growing healthy.

Lighting

Being a desert plant, a desert rose appreciates as much sunlight as it can get. So, if you decide to pot it in your house, choose a spot that receives at least 5 to 6 hours of sunlight every day.

Desert rose with a sky background.
A desert rose appreciates as much sunlight as it can get.

For better results outdoors, pick a spot where taller plants will not shadow it. Nevertheless, ensure that it’s shaded from the harsh high noon sun. When the plant is exposed to the extreme afternoon sunlight in hot areas, its leaves could get scorched.

Soil

Like most other desert plants, desert roses require well-draining soil to grow healthy. Gravelly or sandy cactus soil with an acidic PH should be just fine to grow desert plants. The PH should ideally be around 6.0.

Fertilization

Although fertilizer is not a requirement to grow desert roses, it adds nutrients to the plant and makes it healthier, potentially producing more vibrant flowers. If you are looking to grow desert rose as a decor plant, fertilization is highly recommended.

Feed your adenium obesum with diluted liquid fertilizer (diluted by half) at least once a month during its active growth period.

Temperature

Keep your desert rose in warm temperatures between 65 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. If the plant is exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees for too long, it withers and eventually dies.

A desert rose.
A desert rose doesn’t do well in a frosty area.

If you live in a frosty area, don’t plant a desert rose outside. It will most likely die from prolonged exposure to frost.

A desert rose doesn’t do well in a frosty area and you may need to avoid it in case you live in such areas.

Humidity

Humidity is not a significant concern for this plant as it is accustomed to hot and dry climates. However, if you live in an overly humid area, enhance the soil’s drainage, especially during the plant’s dormant months.

Pruning

Prune a desert rose whenever it looks necessary. However, avoid pruning it in late fall as this may induce new growth in the plant, making it sensitive to cold weather.

Repotting a desert rose

Repot a desert rise whenever the need arises. As a rule of thumb, repot your plant whenever the roots fill the container. This may happen once a year every year.

Whenever you repot a desert rose, ensure the soil is parched.  Clear all the old soil from the roots before planting it in a new one. Remember to wear gardening gloves throughout.

To Wrap It Up

The desert rose is a great plant. It looks beautiful and requires very little maintenance. Its watering regime is simple as long as you follow the steps listed in this guide. The beauty of a desert rose is enough to encourage any plant lover. You will be rewarded for your efforts and be the envy of your friends and family if you take pride in a desert rose. In case of any doubts about its watering or general care, always consult a garden expert. Watering a desert rose is no rocket science and with the right amount of care, it will thrive for years to come.

Ultimate Guide: How To Care For A Bear’s Claw’s Plant

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A bear claw plant exposed to sunlight.

If you are the type of person who loves to spend time outdoors, then the odds are that you have come across a bear’s paw (Bear’s claw) plant at some point. This is a beautiful flower plant with many interesting features, and it’s worth taking the time to learn how to care for this plant so it can grow in your garden. Whether you are looking to replenish your home garden or add a new plant, you will be happy that you took the time to learn how to care for this particular flower.

So, what are the best care conditions for a bear’s paw plant? For excellent results, you will want to plant the bear’s claws in well-draining soil, rich humus. Ensure that the pot has good drainage holes, as this plant does not like to sit in wet soil. You will also want to place this flower near a window that receives full sun or partial shade each day. New bear’s claw plants need to receive at least six hours of sunlight per day during their first three months, but after that, you can move them to a more shaded location if you wish. Bear’s claws prefer soil on the acidic side, with a ph level of about five.

With its deep green leaves and red, spiky flowers, the bear’s paw plant is one of the most popular plants to grow indoors. This article will walk you through all of the steps needed to take care of this plant, ensuring it thrives.

A small succulent plant.
This is a beautiful flower plant with many interesting features.

Quick Facts About The Bear’s Paw

The Bear’s Paw (Cotyledon Tomentosa) is native to South Africa, but today it is found in most parts of the world.

Here are some quick facts about this succulent plant:

– The leaves resemble a bear’s paws. They grow up to eight inches long, and their tips curl inward like claws;

– It has red flowers with yellow spiky centers;

– This is a perennial plant, and it can even bloom in the winter;

– The leaves grow during spring. They remain green through summer, turn red or yellow in the autumn season and then drop off when temperatures start to get colder;

This indoor plant needs lots of light (at least six hours per day), but it will eventually grow too large for space.

– The flowers are between two and three inches long.

 How to care for a bears claws plant

So, now that you know a little bit more about this plant, how can you care for it?

A plant in the Cup
They remain green through summer, turn red or yellow in the autumn season and then drop off when temperatures start to get colder

Propagation

The best way to propagate a bear’s claw is by taking cuttings. This can be done in the springtime when new leaves start to appear at the ends of branches. When you take your cutting, ensure that it contains three or four-leaf nodes and each segment has some roots attached. Plant this section immediately after you have taken it from the parent plant, ensuring that the ends of each segment are covered with soil.

It is also possible to propagate a bear’s claw by breaking off one of its branches and placing it in another pot full of moistened sand or peat moss. The branch will sprout roots if you keep the soil slightly dampish at all times. If you choose this method, make sure that the container where you place the branch has good drainage.

Potting and Repotting

When choosing a pot for your bear’s claw plant, consider its size now and how much it’s likely to grow in the future. Ensure that there are holes at the bottom of any new pot so that excess water can drain away; you do not want your plant to sit in wet soil, or it will get root rot. After choosing the right pot, fill it with well-draining soil before placing your bear’s claw inside and adding more soil if needed.

Although this flower is very easygoing when it comes to temperatures (it can survive in average room temperatures), it needs to be repotted every year. This ensures that the roots get enough oxygen and nutrients so that they can continue to grow. If you have a bear’s claw plant in an especially large pot, it might need repotting every couple of years instead.

Watering

Bear’s claws do not like wet soil for too long at once; this leads to rotting roots, which, in turn, leads to root rot. Water your plant when the soil is dry, and then allow it to drain before watering again. You can water bear’s claw plants using either a spray bottle or by placing them in a saucer full of warm water for about an hour once every couple of weeks if you wish, but make sure that any excess moisture drains away after the hour has passed.

You can water your bear’s paw by misting. This is done by taking a spray bottle, filling it with water, and then spraying your plant’s leaves. This is very effective when using warm or room temperature water on this type of flower because heating the water will damage the roots.

Light Needs

The bear’s claw likes lots of light; however, too much direct sunlight can damage the leaves. Aim for a spot that gets at least six hours of sunlight per day, and make sure to rotate your plant every now and then so that it does not burn in one place only.

A cactus receiving an indirect Sunlight.
too much direct sunlight can damage the leaves

Common Problems

Although generally a drought and disease resistant plant, the Bear’s Paw Plant has a few problems that you should be aware of if you want to ensure the healthiest possible plant. Such issues include:

Root rot

 This is an issue that occurs when your plant’s roots sit in water for too long; this can lead to rotting and wilting. To avoid this, make sure to keep the soil slightly dampish and water your plant with room temperature or warm water only.

Leaf burn

This can happen when you place your bear’s claw in direct sunlight for too long; it will cause the leaves of your plant to turn brown at their edges, wither and eventually fall off. To avoid this problem, ensure that the plant gets enough sunlight but avoid placing it in a spot with direct rays.

A Snake plant leaf
Ensure that the plant gets enough sunlight but avoid placing it in a spot with direct rays.

Fungal diseases

 These include powdery mildew and root rot which can both be avoided if you water your bear’s claw properly. If you have gotten one of those problems, remove any affected leaves or branches to prevent them from spreading.

Toxic sap

The sap found on its stems (and sometimes leaves) can be a skin irritant. This is especially true for children.

Toxins in the soil

The toxins produced by this plant while growing can be found also on its dead leaves and stems. These are dangerous to kids, pets or other animals that may eat them accidentally. To avoid this danger, always position the plant away from places where you can find animals or kids playing.

A scattered soil with the pot.
The toxins produced by this plant while growing can be found also on its dead leaves and stems.

Sunburned leaves

 Too much sunlight exposure on the bear’s claw flower may cause its leaves to turn yellow and even fall off. To avoid this problem, always position your plant in a spot that gets enough but not too much sunlight. Also, rotate it every now and then to avoid burning its leaves.

Weak stems

 This plant needs support since it has weak stems that may break easily due to their weight or the wind. The ideal support for this type of flower is a metal pole with some plastic mesh around it, like chicken wire.

Bear’s paw is also susceptible to pests that include:

Thrips

 These are small, thin and dark bugs that may attack your bear’s paw. To avoid these problems, make sure your bear’s claw is not overcrowded in its pot (this causes an increase in humidity), do not place it too close to your other plants and remove any affected leaves as soon as you spot them.

Aphids

 Aphids attack the plant’s new growth and secrete a sticky substance called honeydew that can attract ants. To prevent this, always use insecticidal soap or neem oil to get rid of these tiny insects.

Scale

 Scale is another common pest for plants with leaves such as bear’s claw; they appear on stems and underneath flower petals. To get rid of them, you should use a cotton swab soaked in alcohol to remove the insects and their eggs.

Mealybugs

 These are small white fluffy bugs that infest your plant’s stem or leaves. Excretions from this type of insect can weaken your bear claw, so make sure not to let it multiply for too long. To get rid of them, you can use the same method as for aphids or neem oil.

Growing and caring for the bear’s paw can be an uphill task that requires a lot of patience and care. However, with the right information, your plant will grow healthy and strong to provide you with many years of pleasure. If you believe this is the plant for your home garden, these tips should help you grow a bear’s paw successfully. Give your indoors that special touch with a bear’s paw plant.